surfguy13

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1398784556' post='2437574'] You'd probably have problems trying to fit an ashtray over that bridge wouldn't you? [/quote] Hmmmm...? Never even considered that. Might be worth a try because it doesn't have to look pretty, just functional. Likewise, going with the idea of using the corner of a plastic container to ncover the edge of the saddle, I suppose it may be possible to simply fashion and ashtray from a plastic container. Excellent idea.....!

Thanks Conan, you're right, it's definitely a Badass 1 not a 2. As you say, the 2 is a bit sleeker and more user friendly. Likewise KingBollock.....that's not a bad idea. Cutting a piece off a plastic container and fitting it round the saddle. Hmmmmm....I shall try that! Many thanks. I did think of turning the saddles round dustandbarley but I don't think it will work.....I reckon intonation would be a problem. The strings are pretty stable over the saddles HowieBass....never had an issue. There are very tiny grooves in the saddles, definitely factory unless they have been precision machined, and they act to [i]just [/i]keep the string where it's meant to be. I do like the saddles/action quite high but even if I lowered the saddles I think I would potentially have the same problem. I really like this bridge...it feels solid and a good lump to rest your hand on. However, I'm just going to have to get this sorted....I'm going to try a corner off a plastic container first and maybe stick ii in place with a small lump of bluetack. If that doesn't work then I'm going to have to file it as Fretmeister and discreet suggested. Bugger! I'll report back as and when I find a fix. Thanks guys and.......any more suggestions warmly welcomed!

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1398779507' post='2437509'] Or you could gaffa tape a bit of mousemat rubber over it temporarily. Not pretty, but less painful. [/quote] Yeah, it works for half an hour or so but it ends up just coming off. I tried masking tape but that just wore through.....the saddles really are incredibly sharp. I usually rest my thumb on the top of the pickup housing but I sometimes use a pick or thumb and that means I need to rest my hand on the saddles. Thanks anyway.....!

Hi Guys I have been playing a p bass pretty much exclusively for ages now and have just started using my old Martin EB-18 again that has a badass 2 bridge.....well, I [i]think [/i]it's a 2. Anyway, the problem I'm having is that when I'm resting the side of my hand on the bridge the sharp point on the leading edge of the E saddle is literally cutting my hand. No idea why this has never happened before, certainly can't remember it ever happening before. Photo below: [URL=http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/iceandbadass009_zps2304b9ba.jpg.html][IMG]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae45/guymerchant/iceandbadass009_zps2304b9ba.jpg[/IMG][/URL] I am loathe to file the saddle down but it is [i]really [/i]sharp and a pretty chunky mother too. Just wondering if anyone else had experienced this problem? Also, any ideas how to resolve this without filing the saddle? Ta!

No problem at all!!! I should have made it clear that the Selmer was a valve head, not SS. I'm a guitarist that plays bass, not a bass player, and sometime forget this!! I REALLY appreciate the advice regardless, I always get really confused with impedance, no idea why, it's not [i]that [/i]complicated! [quote name='BassTractor' timestamp='1361649072' post='1988871'] Just to be sure: my initial reply was wrong. It never crossed my mind that the head could be a valve amp. Sorry! Like others have written: do not connect a valve head's 8 Ohm output to a 16 Ohm cab load. b, b [/quote]

Incredibly helpful replies, thank you!!! I think I am starting to understand. I didn't realise that hooking up two cabs will effectively halve the impedance....if I'm honest I thought it would double it!!! Yes, the Selmer has two outputs on the rear panel....a 7.5 and a 15 as Musky mentioned. It is a 50 watt valve head, not SS. It has SS rectification though if that makes a difference? So....am I right in thinking that if I take a lead from the 16 ohm 'out' on the amp and then somehow split the lead with a jack going to each 16 ohm socket on the cabs I'll be OK? If this is correct what would be the best way of splitting the signal to each cab? I assume a simple connector block is out of the question? If there is a dedicated product I could use to split the signal from the amp that would be great although I'm happy to try anything!!!! Thanks guys....

Hi guys I have a pair of fender PA columns with 4 x 8" speakers in each cab. The cabs have seperate 32 ohm and 8 ohm jacks on the back. I want to hook up both cabs to an old mid 60s Selmer treble and bass head if possible but I'm not too sure about impedance issues and also how to hook them up. I intend to use them mainly for guitar but was surprised when I tried a bass through the head and one of the cabs last night to find that 4x8" speakers sounded very good indeed. So....possibly bass as well. Could I, for example, take a single cable from the 8 ohm speaker out jack on the head and split it? Would this still give me 8 ohms to each cab? I assume I could also use a splitter box? I can't think of any other way to do it and am still unsure about impedance. The speakers sound absolutely amazing and I'd like to use both if possible. Any ideas on how to do this would be warmly appreciated!

[quote name='6v6' timestamp='1361547181' post='1987359'] Well on an amp that old, it's a bit hard to be certain, since the output transformer may not be original - the only way to be 100% sure would be to measure it, but looking at the schmatic and part numbers can give information on what would have been fitted originally: [url="http://www.turretboards.com/layouts_schematics/fender/schematics/fender_bassman_ab165.gif"]http://www.turretboa...ssman_ab165.gif[/url] This shows that the output transformer (TR3) has a single secondary winding, and that the part number is 125A13A A bit more googling finds various replacement transformers claiming to be equivalent to a 125A13A, and all of them I looked at have a single 4ohm secondary, e.g: [url="http://www.tubesandmore.com/products/P-T1750L"]http://www.tubesandm...oducts/P-T1750L[/url] So assuming your amp is original, I'd say it will work best into a 4ohm load. What your amp tech told you is somewhat true, although I personally would not make that recomendation, particularly if you plan to use the amp for bass. If you have a high quality output transformer, you can mismatch the load a bit on tube amps and get away with it, *but* doing so risks sounding bad, reducing headroom and possibly reducing the life of your power tubes, so I would definitely stick to a 4ohm load. [/quote] [quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1361549374' post='1987405'] The [i]impedance [/i]of the original cab was 4 ohms. It was designed to handle two, making it 2 ohms. We used to run them with anywhere between 1 and 8 ohms with never any complaint. I doubt it would be all that happy at 16 ohms, though. [/quote] Can't thank you enough for all that really useful information!! Really is amazingly helpful and to know that a 4 ohm cab is best suited - and yes, a 16 ohm cab is NOT going to right at all. I guess you could get away with 8 ohms at a pinch but 16 is out. The OT is original to the amp but a UK spec mains transformer has been fitted so that may make a difference? I have the 110v transformer so that could easily be re-installed. Thanks again guys.....

Can anyone tell me what the resistance is for a AB165 circuit Bassman head from 1967? I was told by an amp tech that I could use a 4,8 or 16 ohm cab. Is this correct? I can't find any indication as to what the resistance is on the internet so maybe the tech was correct? Any info would be MOST welcome!! Thanks.