surfguy13

[quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1469220233' post='3096840'] I know the blurb on the page says < 2" but according to the instruction sheet, the max recommended string width for an EMG-HB is 2.1". 2.125" isn't that much different. It's up to you but I wouldn't be overly concerned about overstepping the mark by 0.025". I would guess they are talking about string width as it passes over the pickup. Looks like there's plenty room in the control cavity for a 9V battery You would have to replace the volume pot with a 25k one, and you could either continue to use the pot and cap of your current tone control, or replace that too with an EMG-BTC (stacked bass/treble) for even more control with no physical modifications. The switch wouldn't be much use any more - perhaps use it as a kill switch? Just thought of another plus for the EMG - it's available in an "ivory" casing, which might look better than the traditional black. Other guitar humbucker sized bass specific option which comes to mind is TV Jones pickups (Thunder’Tron / Thunder’Blade / Thunder’Mag). There's not much available off the shelf for bass in that form factor. I guess if you paid a custom maker enough you could have a single coil hiding in a humbucker casing. [/quote] What can I say but a BIG thank you for all the info and advice! I think you're right, the EMG makes perfect sense and if it's available in ivory then it will look right too. Great that the width isn't an issue, I guessed this might be the case and 0.025" isn't going to be an issue at all!! The control cavity is huge and with only the two pots there's loads of room to install a battery and accomodate the new active wiring. I think I'd probably go with the EMG stacked tone as the more tonal options the better and I can just lift the two existing pots out complete and put them to one side in case I ever want to revert back. I'm guessing that if I lifted the existing volume and tone pots out, and indeed the jack socket too as I see the EMG kit includes one, then the small electronic box would be bypassed completely? Therefore I guess I could just leave it in situ and install the EMG system around it? I'll look into the TV Jones options as they sound interesting....never played a Gretsch bass but I understand that the TV Jones guitar pickups are really nice.

Just been looking at the specs of the two pickup options that @neepheid suggested and they would both definitely work and will fit in terms of dimensions etc etc. However, I agree that maybe the Schaller might be more of the same in terms of how it sounds, certainly judging by the comments made by users which leaves the EMG. The installation kit looks straightforward and all very do-able but my only concern is that the optimum string width is under 2" (I assume over the pickup) and in the case of the Martin it is 2 1/8th. However, maybe it's optimum and not a firm spec. This is probably a stupid question but are there any other options other than a straight like for like humbucker? Or does the existing pickup determine what can go in there? I just wondered if there were any options for basses as there are for guitar pickups where, for example, a P90 is fitted into a humbucker footprint.

[quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1469199058' post='3096589'] Oh, and I'm guessing that the "boost" you speak of will be a series/parallel switch (or a series/single coil - at work just now, no time to go tracing the wires in your photo to confirm) - series mode does tend to beef up the sound versus parallel or single coil wiring. [/quote] I think that it is series/parallel now you mention it. There's so little info on these basses as they only made 700'ish. It works really well and definitely offers two very different sounds.

[quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1469198705' post='3096583'] Are you including the pickup ring in those measurements? Only reason I ask is that there might be a couple of direct replacement options - the Schaller Bassbucker (which to be fair is very similar to what you already have) or go active with the EMG-HB - an active P (rails) inside a guitar humbucker sized package. I used them on this Epiphone Les Paul and I think they sound great. [/quote] Dead interesting, both options sound good. Sorry, I should have made it clear that the dimensions did include the pickup ring but the pickup itself measures 70mm x 38mm if that helps tie it down. The EMG active pickups sound good and would probably have more range? Would this necessitate a battery and more wiring? The EMGs on the LP bass look pretty much identical to the picup on the Martin.

Hi Guys I have an old '78 Martin EB-18 which I love but I'd like to try and change the pickup just to get a different sound. It is a solid body bass and currently has its original Dimarzio Patent Applied For installed and it is surface mounted: [URL=http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/Martin%201978%20EB-18/EB-18%20Pickup%20002_zpssnf7wqjk.jpg.html][IMG]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae45/guymerchant/Martin%201978%20EB-18/EB-18%20Pickup%20002_zpssnf7wqjk.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/Martin%201978%20EB-18/EB-18%20Pickup%20001_zps3kwftola.jpg.html][IMG]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae45/guymerchant/Martin%201978%20EB-18/EB-18%20Pickup%20001_zps3kwftola.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/Martin%201978%20EB-18/1978MatrinEB-18003_zps51d8c5e8.jpg.html][IMG]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae45/guymerchant/Martin%201978%20EB-18/1978MatrinEB-18003_zps51d8c5e8.jpg[/IMG][/URL] It's a 4-conductor pickup as it has some sort of boost installed (original) that thickens and slightly boosts the sound. The control cavity is laid out as below: [URL=http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/Martin%201978%20EB-18/1978MatrinEB-18022_zps048efe25.jpg.html][IMG]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae45/guymerchant/Martin%201978%20EB-18/1978MatrinEB-18022_zps048efe25.jpg[/IMG][/URL] The dimesions of the pickup are: 89mm across 44mm wide 20mm deep String spacing (centre string to centre string) 18mm. I'm really wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction in terms of finding another pickup that would just drop in as that would be my preference. I simply haven't got a clue where to start looking or indeed what I should be looking for! I'm not exactly sure what sort of pickup I [i]am [/i]looking for to be honest, just something that gives me a slightly smoother sound I guess......a bit more P bass sounding. Any help/advice would be very much appreciated.

[quote name='ikay' timestamp='1465129727' post='3065463'] Chiliwailer, who replied to your post in 'bass guitars', is very knowledgeable about vintage Fender. As he says, it's unlikely to be 1966 as the four digit code came later and was used in the early 70s. This was replaced by a 6 digit code from around 1974 so the last digit (which usually indicated the year) being a 6 is a bit of an oddity. Which I guess is why you're asking! Pics showing examples of 1966, 1974 and 1976 pickups attached for ref. [/quote] Aha, thanks for pointing me in the direction of the post in 'Basses'. I thought a mod had deleted it to be honest as I couldn't find it......I'd originally posted in Repairs and technical' and then when I went into that topic to make sure the post was there......it wasn't! So I thought I'd post under 'basses' and then found it wasn't there either!! However, what I didn't realise was that I needed to log out and then back in to see the posts. hence a post under both headings. The photos are REALLY helpful as they show all the pickups from '66 to '76 and they all look pretty similar. However, I agree, I'm 99% sure they are not '66 pickups. Yeah, it was the 4 digit code that seemed somehow wrong for a '76 pickup and that's what I couldn't work out. However, having now read Chilliwailers comments it could well be an early 70s pickup as the codes didn't seem to be set in stone. Appreciate the adive!

[quote name='Chiliwailer' timestamp='1465052977' post='3064983'] The stamps came in use in the late 60's and the pole piece tops are not rounded, so I'm pretty sure these aren't from 66. I've had a fair few 1966 P Basses and all had hand written dates. The early 4 digit never did seem to have a way of dating that appeared clear to me. But early 70's seems fair. I'm not great with colours, but the pickup winding is usually burgundy. Can't tell if yours is burgundy or black? (The wires have been changed so it made me have a look). [/quote] That makes perfect sense and to be honest I didn't thiunk they were '66 as both my teles, which are from '66, have handwritten date codes as you say. Also, from what little I could find out the 4 digit codes had no consistent references to year, week etc. Maybe they were just factory references and not used for anything other than identification purposes? Yes, I wondered about the windings as well given that the hookup wires have been replaced. You're right, the winding is burgundy, not black. Very much appreciate the input! [quote name='chrisanthony1211' timestamp='1465055527' post='3065002'] I think in 66 they were hand writing the dates, in the 70s the last three of the four digits were usually week and year, being 46th week of 1976......but I'm not sure when they went to the six digit codes...... [/quote] Well, from what I can gather the 4 digit codes stopped in '74 and were replaced by 6 digit but I'm guessing that wasdn'r set in stone! However, I did assume they were '76 pickups and your suggestion that they're week 46 in '76 sounds like it could be spot on. Again, thanks for the input!

Thanks Highfox, really appreciate that. So it seems that the last 2 number refer to the year? Does that mean the pickups I have are '66? I wonder if there any other way of working out the year other than the stamp? Cheers Guy

Hi Guys I wonder if anyone can help.....I have a pair of old P Bass pickups and I'm a little confused as to their age. Both pickups are stamped 6466 on the base and although the last two digits are a little smudged it's fairly clear that they are 66. I was told that the early P Bass pickups in the 70s had a 4 digit code but this stopped in '73/'74. I have no idea if this is correct. All the later 70s P Bass pickups I've seen with a stamped code have 6 digits and that inlcudes my own '76 and '78 P basses. Not sure if it helps but they are 10.3 ohms. The wires have been replaced as can be seen in the photos. Anyway, here's some images and thanks in advance for any advice! [URL=http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/P%20Bass%20pickups/P%20bass%20pickups%20and%20boost%20008_zpsmldrvxpo.jpg.html][IMG]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae45/guymerchant/P%20Bass%20pickups/P%20bass%20pickups%20and%20boost%20008_zpsmldrvxpo.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/P%20Bass%20pickups/P%20bass%20pickups%20and%20boost%20010_zpsxvljllvu.jpg.html][IMG]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae45/guymerchant/P%20Bass%20pickups/P%20bass%20pickups%20and%20boost%20010_zpsxvljllvu.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/P%20Bass%20pickups/P%20bass%20pickups%20and%20boost%20011_zpsrnaeqzon.jpg.html][IMG]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae45/guymerchant/P%20Bass%20pickups/P%20bass%20pickups%20and%20boost%20011_zpsrnaeqzon.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Hi Guys I wonder if anyone can help.....I have a pair of old P Bass pickups and I'm a little confused as to their age. Both pickups are stamped 6466 on the base and although the last two digits are a little smudged it's fairly clear that they are 66. I was told that the early P Bass pickups in the 70s had a 4 digit code but this stopped in '73/'74. I have no idea if this is correct. All the later 70s P Bass pickups I've seen with a stamped code have 6 digits and that inlcudes my own '76 and '78 P basses. Not sure if it helps but they are 10.3 ohms. The wires have been replaced as can be seen in the photos. Anyway, here's some images and thanks in advance for any advice! [url="http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/P%20Bass%20pickups/P%20bass%20pickups%20and%20boost%20008_zpsmldrvxpo.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/P%20Bass%20pickups/P%20bass%20pickups%20and%20boost%20010_zpsxvljllvu.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/P%20Bass%20pickups/P%20bass%20pickups%20and%20boost%20011_zpsrnaeqzon.jpg.html"][/url]

Thanks guys, this sort of confirms what I thought......that there will be very little change. I will give it a whirl and see how it goes. I guess I wasn't sure how much the physical size of a string accounted for the pressure placed on the neck and it sounds like the difference between gauges doesn't make [i]that [/i]much difference.

Hi guys I have a feeling this is a bit of a stupid question but nevertheless I felt it was worth asking!! I have an old 60s Jazz which has always had 55-105 strings (previously roundwound and now flats). I want to try the bass with a much lighter set as I recently tried a jazz with 45-95 strings and although different was really very nice. So, the aim is to install 40/45 - 95/100 strings as an experiment. The million dollar question is......will the lighter load result in the neck flattening out a little? I am quite happy to adjust the trussrod accordingly but I guess I have never been quite sure if lighter strings will have any real effect on setup, having always used the same gauge. Cheers

Yes, excellent point! I did consider the issue of it marking the scratchplate but have just added a mod which will hopefully stop that happening. With wood on plastic (or whatever it is) it is really slippy and you have to tighten the screw quite hard to get it to stay in the same place but I have some old black vinyl I used to cover a cab and gut out a small rectangle of that and [i]very [/i]lightly glued to to the underside of the tug bar. It doesn't slip at all and the cushon effect of the vinyl will hopefully stop it marking the scratchplate. Also, you don't have to tighten the screw anything like as hard. I even found a screw that was the same length as the s/plate screw once it had passed through the base of the tug bar so the screw hole isn't enlarged. I tried the tug bar in the screw hole for the pickup cover and that works really well too, in fact it's a very similar position to the tug bar on the P bass. It also occurred to me that you can make the tug bar as long as you want it, within reason, so if you want to play further back/forward you cover those bases. I've been playing it all afternoon and it is pure bliss!!!!!!!!

Hi guys I posted a question about fitting a tug bar to my 60s J bass above the strings, where a later P bass tug would go, but without drilling new holes or using a 2 screw tug bar. I thought maybe I could use a single screw tug bar and install it using a scratchplate screw hole. @Meddle mentioned that 'exotic wood' single screw tug bars were available on Ebay and I had a look and thought well, they can't be [i]that [/i]hard to make. So set to with a spare bit of solid oak leftover from the kitchen worktops and managed to make a single screw tug bar, using the exiting tug bar as a template. And to my amazement it works perfectly and desn't slip at all. The big advantage is that you can twist it round so it offers loads of different options in terms of how and where you rest your thumb. I have it in line with the scratchplate in the photos but it works really well if it is set parallel to the E too. Thought I should post a few photos to inspire anyone who wants or needs a tug bar without drilling. Took me about half an hour and it's a lot more satisfying than ordering one off Ebay! [URL=http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/Fender%20Jazz%20Bass%201968/J%20bass%20tug%20bar%20004_zpsqnnntwum.jpg.html][IMG]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae45/guymerchant/Fender%20Jazz%20Bass%201968/J%20bass%20tug%20bar%20004_zpsqnnntwum.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/Fender%20Jazz%20Bass%201968/J%20bass%20tug%20bar%20002_zpssjmpqvni.jpg.html][IMG]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae45/guymerchant/Fender%20Jazz%20Bass%201968/J%20bass%20tug%20bar%20002_zpssjmpqvni.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/Fender%20Jazz%20Bass%201968/J%20bass%20tug%20bar%20001_zpshndtfvjc.jpg.html][IMG]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae45/guymerchant/Fender%20Jazz%20Bass%201968/J%20bass%20tug%20bar%20001_zpshndtfvjc.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[quote name='Meddle' timestamp='1432504954' post='2782206'] The earliest P basses had a tug bar that fitted with a single screw. Tighten it down enough and it might stay in place. For a while at least. There seems to be a selection of them on Ebay, but they are all made of exotic wood. Might be time to learn floating thumb technique? [/quote] I had no idea early P's had a one screw version. It seems odd that they aren't available as there are millions of listings for the 2 screw variety. I didn't see the exotic wood options on ebay but I'll try searching for P bass tug bars instead of J basses. Floating thumb technique....I'm [i]so[/i] used to having my thumb firmly attached to a tug bar that the thought of having it just floating seems almost impossible. Appreciate the nod about the wood tug bars, will go and check them out!

Hi Guys I have a 60s Jazz with a tug bar below the strings. I do use it sometimes but am used to a tug bar above the strings a la a 70s P bass and want to try and fit one. I have seen the absurdly expensive zero mod options but I'm really reluctant to spend £30+ on a small bit of plastic. So, wondering if there is such a thing as a tug bar with one central hole that could be fitted into the screwhole on the pickguard that's located above the strings in roughly the same area as on a P bass? I realise that it could spin around but I'm sure I could put a couple of smalls blobs of silicone on the base of the tug bar. I guess the alternative is to make one from wood................? Any ideas would be much appreciated!

OK, I have now tested the princeton with the strat all over the place and.........no crackling! However, when I went back into the room where the guitar/amp was noisy yesterday..........no crackling!!!! Just can't understand it. Everything was the same.....plugged into the same socket, same lead etc etc and as much as I tried I couldn't replicate the noise. So, I will do the same thing with the Twin tomorrow, and it did seem worse on the Twin, and see how I get on. Very very weird though, doesn't make any sense at all!

Photos of the body cavities and scratchplate: [URL=http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/Dennis%20Galuszka%2054%20anniversary%20strat/start%20cavities%20and%20bulgin%20socket%20003_zpsc8k2fdoi.jpg.html][IMG]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae45/guymerchant/Dennis%20Galuszka%2054%20anniversary%20strat/start%20cavities%20and%20bulgin%20socket%20003_zpsc8k2fdoi.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/Dennis%20Galuszka%2054%20anniversary%20strat/54strat001_zps80e727ad.jpg.html][IMG]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae45/guymerchant/Dennis%20Galuszka%2054%20anniversary%20strat/54strat001_zps80e727ad.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1426452219' post='2718207'] If it was just one of the amps exhibiting this then it's a possibility, but for two of them to have a strange interaction going on kinda pushes the boundaries a bit. I'm still thinking its a guitar issue but that doesn't really get you any further forward without some more guesses as to what it could be. How about taking the amp and guitar upstairs (or vice versa) and trying it there - you can sometimes get some pretty nasty noise on a ring main and changing floors will rule that out. I usually use the IMG tags for posting photos - just upload them to a hosting site and paste the url. [/quote] I agree, it seems like it's guitar related but the only thing that comes to mind is shielding the cavities however, the fact that there was no noise using the AC30 chucks a large spanner in the works. The AC30 and the Twin live side by side but I think your idea of trying the guitar through the amp in another area makes [i]perfect [/i]sense and I will do that tomorrow. It's encouraging that the guitar was fine through the Vox so that at least offers a bit of hope that the issue can be fixed. I might go ahead and shield the scratchplate and the cavities just to rule that out. I was considering doing it anyway. I'll report back tomorrow once I've tested the amps! Thanks a million for your help and suggestions so far!

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1426447376' post='2718155'] How about the pickup selector switch? They sometimes go a bit intermittent as they're an open 'skeleton' construction which pick up a lot of crud and gunge (technical term ). Next time you get the crackle, try moving the switch back and forth vigorously and see if that makes a difference. If it does then you might fix it with a squirt of switch cleaner, or if worse comes to worse, a replacement switch isn't too expensive. [/quote] Doesn't seem to be the pickup selector switch...I'd already lubed the pots and switch just in case. The switch is pretty clean to be honest, no dirt to speak of. Interesting though, I have just put the strat through an early 60s AC30 and no crackle so..........?! Tried all 3 channels and focused on the 'brilliant' channel and yet no crackle at all. I rarely if ever use the strat through this amp, normally use the princeton and the twin, '57 and '54 respectively, and it is with these amps that I'm getting the crackling. It's worth noting that the circuit in both these amps is 100% original, not a single component changed, and they both run like a dream, no noise at all. However, I wonder if there is some sort of strange interaction going on between the components in guitar and amps? Long shot I know. By the way, when posting a photo is it: IMG or Direct?

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1426439151' post='2718047'] If you lift the scratch plate - can you put up a picture of what's in there? Any shielding on the underside of scratchplate? Are the cavities painted with conductive paint already? Is it just the pots crackling? Or the jack? [/quote] No, no shielding on the back of the scratchplate and no conductive paint in the cavities. This is what I was getting at......I think it's maybe been made [i]too [/i]close to the original and is subsequently 'warts and all'. I cannot remember which option I choose to drop a photo into a post so have included a link to my photobucket album. Page 1 shows the body cavities and page 3 shows the scratchplate. Hope this helps. http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/library/Dennis%20Galuszka%2054%20anniversary%20strat The crackling is weird and it's not like an earthing problem like when you touch the neck the buzzing ceases. It's a very mild crackling and a bit intermittent. It's not like a dodgy jack socket or a bad lead (I've tried 3 leads). It's more like interference almost. It [i]could [/i]be the pickups I guess?