surfguy13

Hi Guys I seem to have developed a problem in a strat which is puzzling me and I wonder if anyone had any thoughts? I need to explain that this is a '54 anniversary strat made by fender's custom shop to [i]exact [/i]specs of a '54 guitar, even down to manufacturing bridge saddles stamped pat. pending. Yeah, I know, well over the top but it is the best strat I've ever played. However, I wondered weather the process of copying the original that closely has resulted in noise problems that old guitars commonly had? Anyway, I have a couple of old 50s fender amps and whenever I plug the strat into either of these I get a kind of static crackling which is not particularly in your face and which I assumed was an issue with the amp at first but it's not as it happens in both amps. It's almost as if the guitar was not earthed correctly. It does fade in and out a bit too and is just slightly irritating. It gets louder as the volume is increased. I was recording the other evening and for the first time I could hear it on playback. Pickup height is fine, more or less to fender specs, and there is nothing that I can think of that might be adding to or causing the problem. I've checked the earth wire is firmly soldered to the trem plate and it is. Everything else seems to be OK with no obvious problems. I was wondering if maybe the cavities needs to be lined with copper or..............? Any thoughts would be appreciated!

[quote name='Rick's Fine '52' timestamp='1420312709' post='2648007'] Try something like this, theres lotsof different styles available; [url="http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=221554637961"]http://pages.ebay.co...id=221554637961[/url] [/quote] Great idea, I had no idea these things were available, but sadly it's not going to fit the '54 scratchplate. The edge of the plate above the E is MUCH deeper than on a standard P bass guard. It could be fitted but it would be too far from the E.

Hi guys I have just picked up a lovely blue flower '54 P bass from @Muppet today and am absolutely delighted with both the feel and the sound. Totally different to anything I've ever played and all the better for it. However.....I am used to a tug bar above the E, a la 70s P basses, and I am feeling somewhat lost without having anywhere to plant my thumb! I was told not to rest my thumb on the pickup as there is potential to damage the coil........is that right? So, I could drill two holes in the scratchplate and install a standard P bass tugbar above the E. However, I guess it might be wise not to drill holes in the body and scratchplate if I don't [i]have [/i]to so it occurred to me that I could possibly install a replacement scratchplate and superglue a tug bar onto it so's to avoid drilling holes. Does that sound like a plan that might work? If so, I have the original scratchplate to use as a template so would it be possible to make a scratchplate out of plastic or perspex? I'm not sure how I'd cut it and I also have no idea how I'd smooth the cut edges. Would it be better to just buy a ready made replacement scratchplate? If I go ahead and buy a replacement, is the scratchplate on the '51 P bass the same as the s/plate on the blue flower '54? Is there anywhere in the UK where I can buy ready made scratchplates or get a custom made s/plate? Any advice would be warmly appreciated!

[b] Fender Vintage Phillips Head Telecaster Tele Bridge Saddle Length Screws[/b] [quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1417346633' post='2619300'] I played one in a shop and found the neck dive horrendous. Everything else about it was great though. Although, come to think of it I can't remember if it was the short scale! Check out the Guild Starfire if you're wanting a SS semi. I've just got one and it's great Any-hoo, try the Gretsch before you buy and take a strap! [/quote] That's a large part of the problem, and the main reason for this post, if I do buy the Gretsch it will have to be unseen which I am extremely reluctant to do. You mentioned that you'd tried one in a shop......was that the Gretsch or the EB3 I mentioned in my post? If it was the Gretsch then I really do appreciate the nod as this was my real concern....a large hollow body and a solid neck!!!! A recipe for neck dive if ever there was one. The Broadkaster is in Luton with Coda who are one of the best shops in the UK, for me anyway, and I know that if it wasn't right they'd sort something out for me but it seems like a lot of hassle if there is a chance of it being neck heavy. I tried all sorts of straps with the old EB3 to try and contain the neck dive but nothing worked and I found myself constantly wrestling with the neck to keep it 'up'. Anyway, thanks for the info... [quote name='AndyTravis' timestamp='1417347683' post='2619324'] It's funny, the short scale hollowbodies end up feeling about the same size as a full scale Fender, and then stuff like the Jack Casady Epiphone ends up feeling super long. I've owned the Jack Casady (fully hollow, long scale) and it did want to head to the floor at times; there's no weight in the body and the neck is all the way out to the left. I gigged mine plenty and you just get used to it - I bought a wide strap which seemed to solve the issue. I had a DeArmond Starfire for a week or so recently and it sat really odd on me - I tend to wear basses around the middle-high on a strap (not Mark King chinwarmer high, more sensible Pino Palladino height ) and that was a short scale with no neck dive. As Billy States, take a strap, but £600 seems very fair, and you'd not struggle to recoup that. They do a similar looking Electromatic version, but that's long scale and I can imagine that would be a balance nightmare. I've often been tempted, but always end up missing out, or buying something else. My 'hollow body' is currently a Danelectro DC59, and it covers that sound for me - I've got a bad back, and always end up back with Fender Precisions as they suit me ergonomically, if not always sound wise... I'd say this Gretsch is worth a punt, and if the balance isn't 100% then try a suede-backed strap to help grip it to your shoulder. [/quote] The Gretsch may well be worth a punt as you say and it's not a lot of cash for a very well made instrument but I think I'm going to have a word with Coda again tomorrow and ask if they can check the Broadkaster out for balance on a strap, I'm sure they'll be happy to do that. I had wondered about an Epi Jack Cassidy (having been a lifelong Jefferson Airplane fan!! ) and somebody told me exactly what you have said.......that the body is so large that the 34" scale makes the bass feel [i]very [/i]elongated indeed and also are a bit neck heavy as a result. I too wear basses middle-high, certainly the Jazz and I have now and the old Ps I've had in the past, and that does definitely help where neck dive is concerned. I've got a 25 + year old D'addario strap that pumps up like a lilo (honest!) and it's the best strap I've ever owned. It's also very wide over the shoulder. When you pump up the cushion inside the strap it inflates ridges and if you get just the right amount of air in there it does hold a bass fairly well in place.....however, mine has now given up the ghost and no longer inflates but it's still a great strap!! I'll speak to Coda tomorrow and see what I can glean.......thanks again for all the advice.

[quote name='AndyTravis' timestamp='1417342981' post='2619230'] Never played one, but the guitar equivalents are beyond superb. Fantastically put together, sound great and look the part. Played the electromatic bass versions, and they're nice, but putting 2 and 2 together, they don't 'breathe' like their more expensive counterparts. If it's a decent price, go for it, you can always sell it on again (I'd assume it'd take a little longer than a precision bass to sell, but you wouldn't lose money...in theory). [/quote] [b]Really [/b]helpful, thanks a lot for that! Yeah, it was the reputation of the jap reissue guitars (the pro range) that made me seriously consider the broadkaster. I had no idea that Gretsch made reissue basses and as I was looking for a semi rather than a solid body bass this seemed to fit the bill.....and at £600 inc case and 9 out of 10 condition it seemed like a really good deal. I had come to the same conclusion.......it's probably worth buying just to try it for 6 months and if I get on with it......great. If I don't I should be able to get my money back and that can't be bad. I'm familiar with short scale basses (and guitars( having had the EB3 and know that they are a bit of a compromise in relation to a 34" scale bass but I'm interested to see just how they differ from a soild body like a Jazz. A LOT no doubt!!! Certainly in terms of sound. I guess I'm slightly concerned about a floating bridge but that can be sorted with double-sided tape so.......? Anyway, comments are very much appreciated.

Hi Guys I'm seriously considering one of these second hand and was wondering if anyone had used or owned one and had an opinion? I realise that short scale basses aren't everybody's cup of tea but as a guitarist that plays bass I think the shorter scale may work on one or two levels. Particularly with the larger hollow body. The only other short scale bass I've owned was an early 70s EB3 which sounded great, and the scale was fine and worked OK, but the neck was maple and far too heavy for the body so neck dive killed it for me. I believe these 'professional' range guitars and basses from Gretsch are made in japan and are really high quality but have no personal experience. Any views or words of wisdom would be very much appreciate before I take the plunge!!!

[quote name='Kiwi' timestamp='1414852383' post='2593958'] If you don't want it, I'll take it. [/quote] Right, for various reasons (mainly because I can't play it before buying it!) I'm not going to go ahead and buy this bass so I know you said you'd be interested if I didn't buy it so.....I'll PM you now with the guy's details!!

Thanks guys, this has REALLY helped to get my head around the concept of a thinner neck on a P bass. Before coming across this P with the J neck I had never heard of anybody doing this so it's great to have such positive feedback. Looks like this bass is now under [i]serious [/i]consideration!!!!

I had considered a P/J pickup setup on a P bass body as you really get the best of both worlds but when I saw this P bass I was really tempted as it's the same year as the one I've just got rid of and so is likely to sound pretty similar. Some of the Mex and Jap basses are stupidly cheap now and really excellent quality......

[quote name='Highfox' timestamp='1414853798' post='2593978'] I have 1970 P with an A neck, it still says Precision on the headstock They are very nice necks imo. [/quote] Well, this is all looking very positive! I wasn't too sure if it was going to be a bit of a frankenstein but as you have one and it works then it sounds ideal. Yes, this one has a standard P headstock as you would expect but when you look at the nut it definitely looks weird......but in a good way I think!! I have just traded my '76 P for a Jazz and although I love the Jazz I now realise it was a [i]very [/i]stupid thing to do. I can't quite get that 'whatever it is' from the Jazz pickups. However, I think the neck on my old '76 was larger than standard and I did have problems getting my hand around the first 3 frets and yet with the Jazz it's a doddle. So, it looks like the J neck on a '76 P might be a perfect compromise. [quote name='Jacqueslemac' timestamp='1414855082' post='2593990'] USA Fender Hot Rod P-basses did have a Jazz-width nut in the late 1990s. I know this because I tried one and loved it, but couldn't afford it at the time. PS Completely off topic, but if you're looking for a surf band to join I could put you in touch with a drummer and a guitarist who is desperate to find a decent bass player into surf music. [/quote] I had no idea that Fender had produced a modern P bass with J neck....that's very interesting and I'll store that away for future reference!! I'm really grateful for the offer of surf contacts but........I'm actually a guitarist that plays bass rather than the other way around!!!! That's one of the reasons that a P neck can often feel a bit large whereas I feel a lot more at home with a J neck.

[quote name='gary mac' timestamp='1414851817' post='2593948'] Don't know if the answer to your question is here but it is a good resource anyway [url="http://home.provide.net/~cfh/fender2.html"]http://home.provide....fh/fender2.html[/url] [/quote] Thanks Gary, appreciate that. I've had a quick look and sadly no info on J necks.....however, as you say, excellent resource anyway!! [quote name='KK Jale' timestamp='1414852405' post='2593959'] Fender did offer P's with this option from roughly late 60s through to late 70s. They are much less common than the standard, but not exactly rare either. They are not "Jazz necks" strictly speaking but simply Jazz WIDTH necks (1.5" at the nut). This was known as the A series neck: the standard width for Js, an option on Ps in this period. Value-wise I would say not much difference, if any at all: some players seek them out, while others don't. Happy to be corrected on any of the above by those more in the know... [/quote] Aha! Thanks for that, really very helpful. It's interesting to know that they are called A series necks and the fact that they are basically a P bass neck with a narrower nut width makes perfect sense as that's exactly what it looks like.

Hi Guys I am in the process of considering buying a mid 70s P bass and wanted a little advice as it's not straightforward. It's a '76 but has, apparently, a factory fitted Jazz neck. The bass looks exactly like a standard P, which is what I was originally looking for, and until the guy mentioned it had a J neck I was non the wiser. However, I genuinely like J necks and in many ways my perfect bass would probably be a P with a J neck! The neck has dots rather than blocks and other than the obviously narrower nut width it looks identical to a standard P. So, I spoke at length with the guy who has it for sale and he's pretty sure it is a factory neck rather than just an add on. He's done a bit of research and he said that Fender did fit J necks on Ps in the 70s as well offering custom orders. I really don't have any knowledge of this and so far I haven't found anything online that suggests that Fender [i]did[/i] fit J necks on Ps (other than as special orders) and was just wondering if anyone knows anything about this. I really don't mind if this P has just had a J neck fitted to it as long as it's a good fit but I guess, to an extent anyway, a P factory J neck on a standard P may be worth a bit more? Any advice would be much appreciated!!

[quote name='VTypeV4' timestamp='1414460409' post='2589561'] Hi Guy, hope you're well.. Your old Celestion G15C still lives too. My Trace Twin Valve Combo has all of the described above. It sounds stunning and will knock a hole in a wall volume wise but it does weigh 8000 tonnes and as such is a pain to move. I almost took it to rehearsal earlier but used the manky old Peavey thats already there instead. It's my go-to amp for when it counts.. [/quote] I'm REALLY pleased to hear that the old G15C is still going strong!!!! They made them to last in the early 70s! Really great to know that your Trace Twin is so good.....I really don't mind if it's massively heavy as I won't be moving it much once it's here! I shall go forth and see if I can see any for sale out there. Thanks for getting in touch!

Thanks guys, some really useful info there! Great to have a list of models as i was really struggling to find any combos t all. Weight isn't an issue for me as i'm not taking it out, it's purely for use at home. My ampeg B3 weighs a ton and when i do take it out i have got a full flight oherwise it'd be backbreaker. The idea of making a head sounds wonderful but sadly i just don't have the know how. Xgsjf mentioned adding a sansamp.....is that adding it to a valve combo or using it with a solid state unit? Be interested to have more details. Yeah, the old silverface amps are not half bad and the suggestion of a bassman sounds like an idea. I've always thought of hemas guitar amps bizarrely and never even considered ne for bass!

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1414406479' post='2588898'] There are not many valve bass combos around nowadays. I think this is because open backed cabinets are are the easiest to design a valve combo around but they don't work so well for bass. As far as modern low powered valve heads go Ashdown have a few, otherwise it's a case of looking for an older amp. [/quote] Appreciate that. You have confirmed what I suspected but I didn't realise the lack of valve combos was due to the fact that open cabs work better.....makes perfect sense though. I'll have a look at Ashdown and also maybe have a look around for an old T&B or something similar.

Hi Guys First off I need to say I'm a guitarist that plays bass so my experiences with bass amplification are strictly limited. However, I've been using valve guitar amps, mostly 50s/60s, for the last 40+ years. I don't play bass 'out' so there is no need for me to have anything other than a fairly low power set up and my current bass combo is an Ampeg B3 which I've had for years. It's a really nice sounding combo and I have no complaints. Previously I had an old WEM Dominator MK1 which was nice but a bit rattly when you started shifting some air! So, as I'm used to valve amps and currently have a solid state bass combo I was wondering whether there were any valve bass combos out there or whether they are all solid state? I'm not completely sure that a valve combo is going to give me a hugely different sound but as I want quality rather than quantity (in terms of pure watts) I thought maybe a valve set up might just have the edge. I used a Selmer Treble and Bass for years for guitar and maybe something like that might be an option? If there aren't any decent combos out there are there any decent low output heads I could consider as I [i]could [/i]use the Ampeg B3 as a speaker cab and run a head through it? Any advice would be warmly welcomed!

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1412510096' post='2569419'] If you're getting fret buzz with mostly one string and the others play cleanly I'd guess the action is too low for the offending string; it might only need raising slightly to cure it. As a guide, fret buzz near the nut usually indicates too little neck relief, fret buzz at the 'dusty end' usually indicates too much neck relief... since yours seems to be in the middle that to me suggests the string's too low. [/quote] That's interesting, I wasn't aware of that and it's good to know. Cheers. I decided to re-set the bass up this afternoon going back to the Fender spec page you suggested. The truss rod appears to be spot on according to the Fender guide for a 7.25" radius.....it should be 0.14 and it's 0.15 so as close as it needs to be. I then checked the saddles and the E had to come up a touch, and only a touch, to get it it 2.8mm and the G had to come up even less to get it to 2.4mm. I then used a radius gauge and got the string alignment over the bridge and all the way up the neck to 7.25". To get this spot on the D and the A had to come up a fraction. It feels fine and I'm going to stick with this and see how it goes. However the buzz on the E when fretting the E at the 5th and the D at the 7th is still there. The buzz on the A is now mainly there when fretting the 7th fret but there is slight buzz on the 8th and 9th fret too. Mind you, this is almost impossible to hear when it's plugged in and so maybe not worth bothering about? However the buzz on the top E is just there when plugged in. I went up and down the neck with a relatively small, but good quality, fret rocker that I use for the guitar and the only discrepancy seems to be on the 9th fret on the A. When the rocker is resting with one tip on the 9th fret and then over the 10th/11th and the other tip on the 12th fret it rocks [i]slightly [/i]on the 9th. When I say rocks I mean it dips very slightly onto the 9th fret suggesting that it is a little low? I then checked the frets around the 5th fret on the treble side and when the rocker is resting on the 5th/6th/7th frets (beneath the E string) there is a similar rock on the 5th fret. The rocker just dips fractionally. Does this suggest that the 5th fret may be a touch low a la the 9th on the A. Could this be the problem?

[quote name='gary mac' timestamp='1412414047' post='2568674'] Not suggesting that you start whacking it with a large hammer but if it's just a case of the fret having popped up a little, a gentle tap can sort it. Last time I did one, I used a little piece of wood placed over the offending fret and then a couple of taps with a light tacking hammer and all was good. [/quote] [quote name='zero9' timestamp='1412414290' post='2568676'] [url="http://www.jonhaireguitar.co.uk"]http://www.jonhaireguitar.co.uk[/url] if you're near Peterborough at any time. He worked on some of my basses. [/quote] First of all thanks for the tip re John Haire.....I've heard of the shop but never been there, it's a definite possible. Not round the corner but no further than Stevenage. When I said I have a "high fret" I[i] assume[/i] it is a high fret but after playing the bass again this morning I'm not so sure. When the bass is plugged in the problem I'm going to describe is FAR less obvious but acoustically it is really obvious. The problem appears to be somewhere between the 5th fret and the 9th fret and probably on the A. This is what's happening: When individual notes are hit between the 12th and the 5th on each string the GD and E are all clean. However, on the A the 7th/8th/9th and to an extent the 10th fret buzz. The 12th and 6th frets are clean. To make it all the more weird when I fret the 5th on the G and the 7th on the D the G buzzes!!!!! Hmmmmmm? No other combinations buzz though and all the notes on both the G and the D fret cleanly when fretted in isolation. I might even post this as a separate issue but I'd be very interested to know if anyone has any views as to what this could be? Cheers Guy