robert43

Hi thanks for that will give it the flick

Hi I have a 150 watt bass combo amp with a speaker out put. What I was wondering the speaker out put on the amp said 8 ohm min. I have been offered a 15" speaker & case but its 4 ohm, could I put in series with the speaker say a 1/4 watt 4 ohm resistor . Will this work & not hurt any thing ? thanks

Nice bass by the way & yes direct to out put jack for finding what your pups are likeby them self. To rewire its easy with 4 new pots & 2 caps some wire & solder . I recommend find a wiring dia off SD etc & have a go your self , its not that hard.

Hi very diffrent whats it like the bass ? What about the onboard are they good or a gimmick? Any way have fun all ways nice to get a new old toy to play with

Dont worry it wont last long . Thats what my wife was about 20 years ago [quote name='rOB' post='414636' date='Feb 20 2009, 06:22 AM']I had this very discussion with my girlfriend the other day. Me- I'm just nipping into town to play some basses, I'm thinking about getting another one. Her- but you have 2 already me- but I want another one her- why? me- its like having more than one set of shoes, one pair just won't suit every mood and outfit. her- oh, I see. I think she is really starting to understand, she's the best[/quote]

Here in Australia I have bought 2 bodies from the states ( both guitars ) 1 took about 9 days the other took 7 weeks . Go figure both cost same in postage .

SX why because I have never owned any other P bass

Hi all I got the 1/4 pounders they are great BUT I get a hum out of them it goes away when I touch the bridge. I have tried sheilding the pups no good ( was done by a old Fender cooper plate that goes under the pups. The bridge is earthed . Check via muliti meter, replaced the bridge . Scraped off the paint on the bottom of the bridge for goood contact. Any one able to help thanks

[quote name='WarPig' post='414583' date='Feb 20 2009, 05:33 AM']bolt cutters [/quote] Dont be silly use a 9" angle grinder / oxy

Hi all I found a set of 1/4 pounders cheap so I have bought them. Will let you know what I think when I get them

[quote name='Freuds_Cat' post='410025' date='Feb 16 2009, 12:00 AM']I am trying some Brierley Customs in my SX. I was gonna put SD 1/4 pounders in it but heard these and was impressed. Still has the balls and growl of the SD's but a more HiFi clean to it without being brittle. Mick Brierley makes custom pups in Adelaide. [url="http://www.brierleyguitarpickups.com.au/"]http://www.brierleyguitarpickups.com.au/[/url][/quote] Thanks for that have sent him a email

Hi I havee a SX P bass which I play around home BBQs etc. I plaly soft rock ie Eagles some Fleetwood mac 80 music I was thinking of replacing the pickups . I have thought of Semour Duncan SPB-3 1/4 pounders , Dimarzio DP 127 2 rail pickups , a set of pickups out of a 80,s Fender CIJ P bass , or just leave in the SX pickups or any other pickups I would look at Wizard what would you recommend ( I live in Australia ) thanks

I have done it on a Jazz bass ( since sold it ) I used Minwax Wipe on Poly . I sed a rad & also have done it with a foam brush, you can use lambwool.. It takes 2/3 hours for second coat. Only thing dont used a coarse sand paper that they recommend.

[quote name='BOD2' post='394157' date='Jan 29 2009, 09:55 AM']So that's - - red wire from tone pot to centre tag - insulated wires from pickups to each of the othetr two tags - bare wires from pickups to ground. It might be that extra tag on the switch is meant to be connected to ground (i.e. to a pot shell) and then you connect the bare wires from the pickups to that tag too. Keeps it all neater. I can't see any way you could do a "kill switch" though - sorry ![/quote] the only way I can see a kill switch is with a extra switch or use a push pull switch say on the volume pot thats 1 way off a kill switch with no extra switch

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='394139' date='Jan 29 2009, 09:42 AM']Bare wires are nearly always to ground. So thats a no. You would not be wrong in assuming it goes to ground. While you're waiting to order a new switch, can you please get your bedroom tidied up? It's a disgrace. bloody guitar players [/quote] Ha you should see my 15 year old guitar son room , I think there is wild animals living there, We have given up at the moment .

By the way I forgot to say the 1 from the tone pot ( red) is the hot to the middle leg on the switch

Hi you are right the middle 1 is common ie hot the either 2 are for the pickups ie bridge & neck the last 1 is ground. You wount be able to use it as a kill switch sorry. To do a kill switch you are going to have to install another switch [quote name='bobbass4k' post='393794' date='Jan 29 2009, 03:25 AM']This is problem is with a guitar so delete/boycott if you wish, but i trust you folks a hell of a lot more than some random guitar forum, and its more of a general wiring question anywho basically the 3 way selector selector switch on my cheapy prs copy guitar broke, but how it broke is it got yanked out of its socket when i knocked it, and it ripped all the wiring off, so i have a replacment switch, but no idea how to wire it. But i want to wire it back up and be able to use it as a killswitch, so i want one position to have both pickups, one to have the bridge pickup, and one to be a mute, it has 2 humbuckers btw. I'm not certain how to wire it up though, crappy camera phone pics follow: In case you can't see, the rightmost blue and red wires are coming from the guitar, for the pickups, not sure which is for which pickup, but i'm not really bothered which switch position is which. The blue wire has one plastic coated wire, and another none coated one, the red one doesn't. The leftmost red wire is wired to the tone pot. this is the switch, i assume the 3 central lugs are for the positions, and the extra lug is the ground I'd really appreciate any help with this, i'm confident with the actual soldering and everything, i'm just new to guitar tech stuff and i'd rather get it right than potentially screw it up trying to figure it out. cheers[/quote]

Hi I would go B then C but no way A Thats my thoughts

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='352688' date='Dec 13 2008, 12:30 AM']That's right after running through a few alternative designs I set to the G hole with a fret saw and a scrap of sandpaper. I could easily have chopped the head right down to match the 3+1 but IMO the proportions would have been affected too much so I went with an optical illusion. The hardest part was creating the new hole for the the G post with only a drill and some sandpaper but I made it in the end and you'd never know that it wasn't factory done. The Wilkinson machine head plates are over sized for some reason and if you had all 4 in a row the last one stuck out over the end (I guess the position of the holes in the aftermarket headstock might have something to do with it too). The downside to the lack of space meant that I couldn't reverse the tuners action for being upside down but that doesn't really bother me all now I'm used to it.[/quote] Hi thanks for that I might do it to a Jazz bass I have as I like the MM 3+1 head stock more than the Fender 4 in a row

Hi nice work I was wondering how did you do the 4 string head stock I presume it was a 4 hole head stock & the hole at the top is where the G string tunner would be ? Also you said the tunners were to high ie over lap at the top so how did you modify this plug the top then redrill them ? Thanks & nice work

Hi I did my Jazz parts bass with Danish oil 2 coats per day total 8 coats , Then I left it for a week & polished with Carnuba wax . It was a ash body. I loke the look anly draw backwas it is easily damaged ie marked dinted etc. In the end I ended up putting 2 coats of poly on the body ( clear ) the body looks the same but dosent dammaged as easily. 1 advantage of the danish oil is if you scratch it is you can just put another coat of danish oil

If you want it painted then either a auto spray shop or a place that paints kitchen cupboards with a hard bake finish that what I would recommend. Take off all of the hardware. If you want a DIY the suff the body with fine wet & dry paper , this make new paint grip to old paint . Clean with thinners / turps dry & then I recommend a rattle can paint out side on a clam warm day. If you cannt have this make the room warm with heaters, With auto shops they use heaters or a oven to get the product warm & to bake the paint. Paint takes better when its warm ie room temp If you use auto touch up paint you will have to undercoat it as this paint is very thin & darker coulors will show up. If you never used a rattle can the get some timmber to try on. With paint rember several thin coats are better than 1 thick coat.

250 k ohm a for tone & b for volume

My son had a cheap no name wah ( guitar) what I did was to take away the pcboard & just use the 3 legs off the pot . On the pot 1 outside leg went to earth from the - input jack and the -on the amp jack , the middle leg went to the + on the amp jack , the other out side leg went to the + on the instrument jack. Just goe to s&d web site & look at wiring 1 volume no tone basically thats it You just have to make sure it the volume goes the right way ie toes on it full volume heal no volume Hope this helps

My choices are 1 sunburst , 2 natural 3 car, 4 white ,5 blue ( dark) 6 black 7 any thing else