SimonH

Hi chaps - help! I have an empty GK 2x10 cab I would like bring back to life. I currently use a 15in MB cab rated 400w at 8ohm and a 4x10 MB rated 800w at 8ohm. The head is a MB Momark 600w frame, runs down to 4ohms. I want the option to run my refreshed 2x10 either on its own, or in tandem with either of the other two cabs. If I have a pair of 10in cones rated at 8ohm 500w each, what config can I use to run the cab solo, or as a pair with either of the other two? Or is that simply not safe/possible? If I wire the new cones in parallel as 4ohm total, that will give 1000w at 4ohms and will handle the Momark head. But then I can't run them as a pair with, say, the 15in. If I wire them in series as a 16ohm load, that will be 1000w at 16ohm - will the Momark be ok running that, what will it sound like, and can I then match the new cab with either of the MB cabs? Thanks, and sorry if I'm being thick. Simon H

Big ACG love here. I've been thinking along those lines. I'm gonna have to try one!

Thank you for the offer ead - I'm a ways from Chorley tho, out in the Fens. I wonder why guitar boards are radiused in the first place?

I saw that 120v thing too, but I checked the back of the head and all the VB3s said 120 - 240v supply... yeah, I just checked online and...[list] [*]Universal switching power supply [/list] Don't know what that means?

I've been up to the site and had a look round. A lot of stuff at the front of the auction is ex-endorsed gear returned from tours; some looks tatty, some looks mint. You'd need to go to the site to work out which was which. I asked a couple of soon-to-be-ex-employees if the kit was working, and they all said, basically, yes, it 'should' be, and anyone was welcome to try anything out - nothing was being brushed under. The later stock (on the list) is in the warehouse and in better nick - but, again, no returns or guarantees. The very last few items, and the guitars, are in the demo area and are presumably ok - although some of the basses had knobs missing and shafts split - which would be a pain on a push/pull pot. The whole site is for sale - they're clearing everything. There are whole pallets of ply, tolex, fixing and fasteners, cones etc, as well as bandsaws, a lathe, tooling etc. If you wanted to start a business building speaker cabs, this is what you'd need. And some space. Another thing - if you bid on Trace heads, bid on the US made 1200 and 600w heads, not the 1000w and 500w UK heads. They look and feel rubbish. And don't bid on anything I am. :-)

Hi - done a quick forum search and couldn't find an answer, so apologies if this is old hat, but... I'm thinking of my *next* bass (14 and counting)... and I've decided there's something, er, 'playable' about the look of a zero, or very wide, radius fingerboard. I keep looking at pics of ACG, Shuker and, I think, Vigier boards and they just look super fast and super low action (I know string height is nothing to do with fingerboard profile; it's an optical thing). Anyway, my question is: what are your opinions on what a zero radius fingerboard feels like (before I slink off and find one to try)? Are they generally said to have a particular characteristic that radiused boards do or don't? For context, I like the 305mm radius that Ibanez use on their ATKs, SRs and RDs... Thanking you kindly...