Andyjr1515

OK - next stage - doing the actual veneering The equipment - a small sponge decorators roller; standard PVA wood glue; an iron; an old hankie or similar; a water mist spray; a disposable Stanley hobby knife A little known fact about PVA wood glue is that, coated on both items and left to dry for 1/2 hour, it acts as a very effective 'iron-on' glue. As such, the veneering is actually very straightforward Shots 1 & 2 [attachment=83219:P1020268.JPG] [attachment=83220:P1020269.JPG] I use a gloss paint 6" foam roller and standard wood PVA Shots 3 & 4 [attachment=83221:P1020270.JPG] [attachment=83226:P1020271.JPG] Apply a thin BUT COMPLETE covering to half of the body and one veneer half (remember which way up!). Be careful when you do the veneer not to press too hard - very easy to split at this stage. As soon as the veneer is covered, gently lift the sheet and spray it LIGHTLY with a fine water mist on the other side (I use a 50p travelling perfume atomiser from Boots). That is because the veneer, wetted by the glue, will immediately start to expand and curl. Wetting it on the other side, balances out the expansion. Wait around 30 mins until both glue surfaces are touch dry. Position the veneer carefully and accurately so the butting edge is bang on the centreline. Shot 5 Cover with a thin cloth (thin enough to let the heat through but thick enough to stop the veneer scorching. I use old fashioned handkerchiefs. Brown wrapping paper would also be OK) [attachment=83222:P1020273.JPG] Iron the veneer with a hot iron (max setting) from the butt-edge first and then fanning out to the edges. Be careful not to tug at the veneer or it will slide slightly out of poisition. If it hasn't quite stuck down, just iron the offending area again - this can be done any time and, provided you had full glue cover, will restick firmly. Shot 6 The veneer is now on, firmly stuck [attachment=83223:P1020274.JPG] Shot 7 While you still can see the pickguard / bridge holes, etc on the unveneered side, position the hardware and punch through the veneer to the respective screwholes with a pencil end or small screwdriver [attachment=83225:P1020278.JPG] Shot 8 I find it easier to trim each half at a time. I use the Stanley disposable hobby knives as they have a sharp but long blade. Due to the covering of glue, the veneer is now a lot tougher, but still can split. Wherever possible, cut along the body edge so that you are putting as little pulling stress on the veneer as possible. If a bit DOES tear, just iron it back in place. For the body edge I cut from the body side, using the body as the knife guide, using a gentle sawing motion [attachment=83224:P1020275.JPG] Shot 9 Trimmed ready to do exactly the same on the other side [attachment=83228:P1020276.JPG] The other side is just a repeat, except two extra points to note: 1 Butt the joint up as tight as you can and iron towards the join - as the veneer heats, it dries and shrinks. Ironing towards the join lets the veneer slide slightly to close the joint. 2 Before ironing the curve of the arm relief, give the top surface of the veneer a quick spray of water - it will start to expand and curve the correct way. Iron the veneer smoothly from the main body towards and over the curve and finally the flat part of the arm relief. Final tip is that, once trimmed, I run round all of the edges with the iron to make absolutely sure the veneer is well glued there for when I do the final trimming and sanding Next instalment will probably be towards the weekend. Hope the above is clear and of interest - any confusion just ask! Andy

[quote name='LiamPodmore' post='1276511' date='Jun 20 2011, 11:14 PM']Now if my GSR200 looked that good (And had functioning Electronics) i wouldn't have any hesitations about gigging it at all. Liam[/quote] ...and if I could play the flaming thing, Liam, neither would I

This looks stunning! Fabulous build

Hi Just to say, I've started a thread on Build Diaries which I will complete over the next week (ref the stage by stage process of the Ibanez pictured above) Thanks for the encouraging feedback Andy

Hi This thread is in response to the very kind words from all you sweeties about my Squier VM Jaguar in Gear Porn. Like an idiot, I didn't take any shots of the work in progress on that one, but did for this Ibanez bass - my first attempt. I have since done two Strat 6 strings and the Jaguar bass - and they have all wildly beaten my expectations I'll post this over a few days... Firstly to explain: this is veneering with 0.6mm veneer over an essentially flat-topped design - it is not like adding an, eg, maple top requiring routing, carving, etc. This makes it relatively straightforward, requiring very few special tools and also doesn't affect the tone, other than getting most of the thick nitro / poly off which, in most cases, frees up the sound noticeably. These first shots show the stripping, and the positioning of the veneer. Shot 1 - the 'Before' Nice entry-level bass. Nice red trans finish. The seller was appalled that I was going to strip it all off [attachment=83186:P1020236.JPG] Shot 2 - the 'After' [attachment=83180:P1020295.JPG] Shot 3 - stripping. Probably the most difficult bit of the whole process. The only sensible way I've found (that poly is TOUGH) is an electric paint stripping heat gun and decorators' scrapers. The challenge is applying enough heat to get the covering brittle, but not that much that it burns the wood Not so critical on the top because that will be covered, but crucial at the back and sides as these will be clear coated. I always do get SOME burn marks, but the less the better as they take a considerable amount of sanding out and unless you want to end up with a cigar box bass... Also watch not to dig into the wood - same problem! [attachment=83181:P1020259.JPG] Not essential (and not used for this one) but a great investment is a standard electric sander. If sanding by hand, use a sanding block - the top especially needs to be dead flat Either way, next bit is to sand and sand and sand until all burns and finish have gone. Wipe it over occasionally with a damp cloth to see where there are still inconsistencies of wood colour. The grain ends are particularly prone to the dye soaking in Shot 4 - done and never want to see a bit of sandpaper again [attachment=83182:P1020262.JPG] Shot 5 - the bookmatched sheets of American Burl Walnut. Very fragile in this state [attachment=83183:P1020263.JPG] Shot 6 - using a newspaper mask to work out where best to position the veneer. Remember that your bridge and pups will cover some of this, so position for the best effect. Leave plenty of spare around the outside shape (at least 40mm all round), mark with a felt-tip and... [attachment=83184:P1020264.JPG] Shot 7 - ...cut it out! Standard long household scissors (wife's dressmakers are great until you get found out) work a treat BUT keep it flat, don't twist or bend otherwise it will split. Don't try to cut out the cutaways - the curves are too tight. [attachment=83185:P1020267.JPG] Next post, I'll go through how to glue without special equipment or tears (the crying kind) or tears (the ripping kind) Andy

Hi Thanks for the encouraging feedback, folks! Like an eejit, I never took shots of the Jaguar as I was doing it, but I did do for the Ibanez so I will post something on the Build Diaries over the next few days. Although I wouldn't say it was easy, it is surprisingly quick and takes no special tools save for an electric paint stripper (and even that is just to save time). The veneering and varnishing I did on the dining room table (or if my wife is reading this, the fully fitted and remote from any part of the decorated house or carpets specialised workshop ) The challenge is getting JUST the right veneer. The Ibanez is American Burl Walnut - pretty easy to get hold of - but the Jaguar is an Asian veneer that I haven't seen since. The cutting down of the pickguard was a bit white knuckle (replacements only seem to be available from US) and the carbon fibre a complete experiment. Part of the learning curve was that the fibres, when you cut it, go EVERYWHERE and - of course - they are highly conductive I know the look isn't everyone's cup of char, but I've done a couple of Strat 6 strings too, and they look (and play) like the d**s b******s In these torrid times, there's no money in it, of course, but huge satisfaction

Don't know what the Mustang would be like but I'll admit I am a Squier fan. I have a Vintage Modified Jaguar (see Gear Porn) which, with a few tweaks, is fabulous. I would expect a Mustang to be just as good. The thing is, the companies who also make the top quality and top priced guitars simply cannot - and will not - risk their reputation by making rubbish entry-level guitars. As such, the low end Yamahas, Squiers, Ibanezs, etc, while built to a budget, are very very well made bits of kit. ~Bit of a set up tweak here and a hardware change there and you have a fantastic value for money result Andy

Hi - you're all too kind . Never realised bass players could be sweeties too On another link (Repairs) I describe that for the first one of these I did, I actually made a profit (although the Jaguar is strictly for my own use) I sold this one below (shown before and after) to a Nepalese Buddhist who plays in a Heavy Metal Band. Now agreed, you don't get one of those coming along every day but when you do... There are some tips, tricks and techniques but, to be honest, the most difficult bit is just getting the perishing original coating off. The attached (originally a red Ibanez GSR200) was done over a week with two weekends (and I have a very time demanding job in between ) If anyone wants to know the tips and tricks I've learnt, I'd be happy to do another post in the appropriate folder (Projects?) Andy [attachment=82873:Before.jpg] [attachment=82874:Best_1_smaller.jpg] [attachment=82875:Best_2_smaller.jpg]

Lot of wise words been said already... My take, for what it's worth is: don't expect to make a profit, but do expect a bass that is significantly better than you could afford otherwise and just right for YOU. The reason its value is less for others is that they may be looking for something different and they will always fear 'home bodged' rather than professionally upgraded. The upgraded Squier Jaguar Bass I've recently posted on Gear Porn is absolutely done for my own use. It's absolutely not to everyone's taste but I don't give a t**s, because I didn't do it for them To me, it looks fabulous, it plays just right, it sounds so much better than the original and has given me a bucketload of satisfaction. For £180 s/h, £40 of veneer, sandpaper and varnish and £25 for strings, I have a guitar worth £900 in my eyes, but to anyone else, I have a £299 Squier VM Jaquar Bass that looks a bit fancy. I did do a similar thing to an Ibanez entry-level bass and I DID make a profit, but only by selling it to a nepalese buddhist who plays in a heay metal band...and how many of those come along at just the right time Having set my realistic expectations, my take on the order is: first make sure you're starting with a 'decent bit of wood' with a neck that's playable - all of the major names that sell good quality expensive guitars cannot risk denting their reputation with rubbish entry levels so we're talking here Yamaha; Squier; Ibanez etc, etc. Then it's: strings; setup (especially pickup heights and balance); pickups; bridge; tuners. ...and it really is great, great fun! Andy

Thanks for the kind words, folks I'm overseas at the moment but will post more details at the weekend - it's easier than it looks! Andy

Hi Attached is me showing off my latest customisation job (got to find some appreciation somewhere...to the boss indoors its 'just another guitar') This is a Squier Vintage Modified Jaguar Bass once plain black and now BEAUTIFUL It was bought from another BassChat member <thanks Stu> and I spent a couple of recent weekends doing: [list] [*]a strip down [*]stripping the finish [*]veneering with an exotic Amboyna veneer [*]Varnishing with TruOil [*]Cutting the pickguard (which covered too much of the veneer) [*]sorting the neck seating out (Squiers are good but not perfect) [*]covering the pickguard with carbon fibre matting (the tortoiseshell clashed with the colour of the veneer) [/list] The only big challenge was stopping the tiny, tiny carbon fibres from getting in the electrics (they are VERY conductive) It plays absolutely fantastically and I hope you agree that is looks pretty cool too The Tru Oil finish is high gloss and hardens nicely, though will never be as tough as poly or nitro. Having said that, it is VERY easy to repair scratches. Great side benefit is that is smells like a well oiled cricket bat... [attachment=82483:IMG_1501.jpg] [attachment=82486:IMG_1502.jpg] [attachment=82485:IMG_1507.jpg] [attachment=82484:IMG_1511.jpg]