Andyjr1515

Hi I've got a Blackstar Distortion pedal that a mate's currently borrowed. I can get it back over the weekend and try my bass through it and let you know. I agree with Prime_BASS that it won't damage it - whether it sounds any good is quite another matter...it's worth a try though. I'll tell you Sunday eve whether we got thrown out of the pub on the back of trying it Andy

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1326349' date='Aug 3 2011, 11:32 PM']It looks to me like the seller merely used your offer as a point to emphasise the bargain that was to had.... albeit without thinking about your feelings. Seeing as the seller is a moderator himself, a wee word with the site owner should bring about a swift resolution to your situation.[/quote] Nah - it's no big deal. It's just that I try hard to follow forum rules but, as the guy WAS a moderator and flamed me on the forum despite me sending an immediate PM apology (10 secs max) after he'd flamed me in his PM response to my (pretty close) offer, I assumed I must have committed some sort of heinous forum crime In his defence, once I was on a decent internet connection (when I made the offer I was on a bought timed connection in a hotel with 5 mins to run and didn't have time to read everything in the thread) I could see he does say the price was firm - but he did seem to have problems selling it to anyone who would be willing to pick it up, which I WAS willing to do but the added cost of which made it a touch over what I could afford. As a former internet forum moderator myself, it has always seemed to me that there are two types of moderator: those who do it to rigorously apply the forum rules for the good of all and those who use the power of veto and forum bans to bully and humiliate. Clearly this guy is of the former kind but was just having a bad hair day Anyway, it's forgotten. He sold the bass later that day, which I am genuinely pleased about because it is a concern that absolutely NOTHING is moving at the moment...but that's for another thread Thanks anyway for your response and the clarity that I haven't (or maybe hadn't) committed some sort of taboo Andy

Well I’m a bit confused by this – not from the selling point of view (which I agree with…not putting a price on is a bit like a trader putting ‘POA’ – I never follow up these because I always think there’s going to be a catch or hard sell) but from the buyer’s point of view. I recently looked at a bass for sale at a good price but one where the seller said he’d had offers but for postage and he would prefer collection. I offered by PM at £10 below the asking price based on cash and collection the following day. I gave my phone number and said, I think entirely politely, call if he was interested. I put the same on the forum except I didn’t put the price I’d offered (or, obviously, my phone number). The £10 reduced offer came from a simple calculation of the asking price, plus the diesel for the 250 mile round trip, plus the bits that didn’t come with the bass coming to £20 more than I could afford. I was moderately flamed both by PM and on the forum. I work hard never to p**s anyone off on the internet (and really am upset that I've p****d off this guy) and I am just about the opposite of a commercial shark, but am I to assume that a buyer must offer the asking price or nothing at all? It’s a funny old world… Confused of Derby

Hi Folks Thanks for the feedback and suggestions. I've taken up JPJ's suggestion of using pickup rings - really pleased with the result [attachment=86042:IMG_1686.JPG] Thanks again Andy

Hi Finally sorted the pickguard conumdrum on the Fretless (JPJ suggested pickup rings which was a great suggestion!) so here it is, finished, next to the Jaguar... [attachment=86038:IMG_1683.JPG] Here's the fretless by itself... [attachment=86039:IMG_1686.JPG] And the Jag which most of you have seen before... [attachment=86040:IMG_1685.JPG] Last shot has a sneering, snivelling interloper that doesn't belong here but somehow got into the act ... [attachment=86041:IMG_1691.JPG] Our band has simply got to have the best looking gear that none of us can play Andy

Hi JPJ With hols, etc, I'd completely missed this thread until you mentioned it with your kind words about my fretless. WOW Absolutely jaw dropping. With your workmanship, I am flattered that ANY of my tips could be useful... I look forward very much indeed to seeing the next shots Andy

Hi There's a last remaining thing to fix (some sort of trim around the neck pickup to hide the over-sized rout) where there is a helpful debate going on in Build Diaries but this is the latest veneering job I've just completed. [attachment=85892:IMG_1659.JPG] [attachment=85893:IMG_1673.JPG] [attachment=85894:IMG_1678.JPG] [attachment=85895:IMG_1680.JPG] [attachment=85896:IMG_1681.JPG] It's based on a Custom Fretless bass which I then did the same stripdown and veneering job as described in my other recent post Veneering an Ibanez Bass - Tips and Techniques in 'Build Diaries'. The veneer is a Burl Walnut - it's like playing a Bentley Continental Dashboard I added a series pull switch to one of the volume pots so it now has two options - absolutely standard vol vol tone with the neck vol in the down position (standard parallel configuration) then, with the neck vol in the up position, it switches to the two coils in series, with the neck vol becoming master volume and the tone as normal. I'm delighted with the result. The Jaguar I posted earlier in the year is a definite keeper but this one will probably be put on the Basses For Sale (my wife recently pointed out that 6 guitars and 2 basses is too many seeing that, in her view, I can't play any of them properly ). If anyone is interested before I get it in the right folder, feel free to PM me. Thanks for looking Andy

[quote name='neepheid' post='1320132' date='Jul 29 2011, 10:15 AM']Bit late now, but convert it to rear routed and ditch the plate What about a clear, regular Jazz shaped pickguard? That way you protect your veneer and get to see it [/quote] Hi Yes - rear routed is best but this was the best fretless I could get on my budget. The Ibanez I did was rear-routed and that takes all the issues away! Ref damaging the veneer, it is - agreed - a much softer finish than poly or nitro, but it is also very easy to polish and repair. I use the Birchwood Casey Wax finish to keep the shine and, if there is a bad scratch, just rub a little more tru oil across with my thumb . Nevertheless, a clear guard's a great idea for anyone wanging it about more than I do!

[quote name='lobematt' post='1320156' date='Jul 29 2011, 10:30 AM']I'd give it a normal J pickguard to cover the gap around the neck pickup[/quote] Yeah - that was a bit of a surprise when I took off the pickguard . The bridge routing is fine. I might alternatively pop a trim on (a la Gibson humbuckers)

Hi there Thanks for the feedback. Like all these things, you get so close to something for so long that you cease to be able to see the wood from the trees (if you excuse the pun ). I did the full set-up this morning, played it and looked at it afresh and I think it is now in the category of 'leave it alone - it's done' I'll post some proper shots in Gear Porn later today but in terms of where this has come from: I bought the bass as a 'Custom Fretless Bass' from a helpful chap called David. He does the fretless conversion and set-ups himself and I was very pleased with what came through the post. The fretless conversion has been very well done and the set-up was spot on The pickups are probably basic but didn't warrant changing - but more about later I did the same stripdown and veneering job as described in my other recent post [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=142149"]Veneering an Ibanez Bass - Tips and Techniques[/url] The great thing when you do that job is that you really see the quality of the body and type of wood. I don't know what the wood is, but it is light but VERY hard compared with the usual Alder / Basswood, etc. The veneer is a Burl Walnut supplied by Freed Veneers - great effect and looks much better in real life than the photos - the central feature is a deep yew-like colour and not at all yellow as appears in the quick shots above. It's like playing a Bentley Continental Dashboard I added a series pull switch to one of the volume pots so it now has two options - absolutely standard vol vol tone with the neck vol in the down position (standard parallel configuration) then, with the neck vol in the up position, it switches to the two coils in series, with the neck vol becoming master volume and the tone as normal. I'm delighted with the result The series option doesn't significantly increase the volume (an oft-quoted criticism of this configuration) but gives a very modern deep boom bass sound. The tone control is very responsive and the tone options cover all my bases and many more. Whereas the Jaguar I did is a definite keeper, this one will probably be sold. If anyone is interested prior to me putting it on the Basses for Sale section, feel free to send me a PM Andy

Hi JPJ Fantastic! I'm really pleased & looking forward to seeing your pics Any

I get the distinct impression so far that the consensus is without! Now I can stand back from it a little, I think I agree that the pickguard is pants. My only remaining concern, I suppose, is that the Jazz metal control plate design seems to beg for a pick-guard of some sort. Round off the corners or leave it be? Thanks for the feedback so far Andy

Hi All I will drop a few more details about this latest project in the next day or so but first - an urgent question. Do you prefer this with: [list] [*]No pickguard [*]The shape of pickguard in the photos [*]A pickguard but a bit slimmer [/list] [attachment=85832:IMG_1654.JPG] [attachment=85833:IMG_1655.JPG] [attachment=85834:IMG_1650.JPG] [attachment=85836:IMG_1658.JPG] This one might be for sale soon - which do you think would appeal (if any ) to most folk? Thanks Andy

Here's a closer shot of the headstock. I never know whether I should put on a decal... [attachment=83857:IMG_1509.jpg]

Great stuff, Andy I love the 'get on with it and what the eye don't see, the heart don't grieve after' approach Great, great colour too. Looking forward to see how the finished article turns out.. I think the VVT option is by far the best, too. There's usually a 'sweet' spot with the bridge on full and the neck reduced usually to around 80% - you can hear it hit as you're turning the neck volume. I'm intrigued to see where the spot is on this combination! It should look and sound the dogs whatsits! Andy

Hi In case anyone wants to have a go at this type of thing, I've finished the thread on the techniques in Build Diaries - 'Veneering an Ibanez GSR200 - tips & tricks ' Don't try it on a prized possession, but if you've got a tired old faithful lying around - give it a bash. It's quicker and easier than you would imagine Andy

[quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='1281568' date='Jun 24 2011, 09:56 PM']Some awesome handiwork on this thread. I'm particularly liking the way the grain is oriented on both the GSR and the (Fender/Squier?) Jazz... Here's an idea (or two) to steal; Lighter (coloured) veneers with coloured stains over "natural" bodies. Matching headstocks!!! Still awesome, even without those![/quote] Hi The Jaguar is a Squier Vintage Modified... I will shamelessly steal your first idea but, like the Burglar Bill I am, the second idea is already well and truly stolen [attachment=83426:IMG_1501.jpg] Thanks for the feedback!

OK - final bit. Fewer photos, but most of it is self explanatory (I hope!) Shot 1 [attachment=83410:P1020425.JPG] I use Birchwood Casey Tru Oil and their Sealer Filler. It is not an oil finish - it goes on like oil but sets to a proper gloss varnish finish (after a few coats - see below). IT IS NOT AS TOUGH AS POLY OR NITRO by any means at all, but, after drying properly is quite tough enough for normal use. The other great feature is that it can be applied indoors and repairs are a breeze First is to sand around the veneer join to ensure that all the veneer threshold is down to fully glued veneer. I use 100 grit for this but used gently. I sand generally ALONG the join line for two reasons: [list] [*]It is easier to smooth out irregularities in the line to get a smooth continuous curve of veneer [*]It is easier to remove ALL the PVA from the uncovered wood at the join line [/list] The reason that the latter point is important is that, when you varnish, any PVA will show as a white line. Any PVA still on the uncovered wood will show through as a white blob. You can see the effect in this shot... [attachment=83419:PVA.jpg] The great thing about using Tru-Oil is that, if you get something like this, you just sand it down to the wood again (v easy), sort the problem out and then just re-varnish. Once the veneer join line is smooth, PVA free and completely secure (either re-iron if it has lifted or, if it is dry of glue, sand a little further back until you reach the full bond line), sand the whole body with 300 grit, running to 1000 grit. Look out particularly for any sanding 'gouges' and sand down to a smooth even finish. Any seepage of PVA onto the veneer surface should also be sanded away Apply a coat of Birchwood Casey Sealer Filler relatively thickly with a brush - it is clear and behaves just like Tru oil but is thicker and dries thicker. On the bare wood, one coat should be enough to fill all the pores. On the veneer, there will be splits and holes. You have a choice: [list] [*]Leave them be - this gives a real 'wood' texture [*]Fill them - this gives a traditional glass smooth finish [/list] On the Ibanez, I didn't attempt to fill them (see below) [attachment=83422:Grain.jpg] Difficult to photograph, but the effect of the grain lines radiating out from the centre is STUNNING On the Jaguar, I did, because I wanted a '1940's rolls royce polished wood facia' finish. If you want it 'au naturelle', then just sand down the sealer filler back to the wood (300-500 grit) and then start Tru-oiling If you want it flawless, then I've found two ways of filling quickly, both involving mixing the sanded veneer dust with the filler: [list] [*]Cover an area of veneer with sealer and then sand the wet sealer. This creates a slimy mush which fairly effectively fills the gaps with veneer-coloured filler [*]Sand some veneer offcut, gather the dust and mix with a little sealer-filler to create a paste and fill the cracks and holes like you would a ceiling before painting [/list] Once filled, sand down back to the bare wood and veneer with 300 - 500 grit Now it's just a case of applying the Tru-Oil. Try it on a little scrap veneer, but basically the first two or three coats dry dull, and then subsequent coats dry gloss (dry time to recoat is c 1 hour. Overnight to be able to handle safely without 'bruising' the finish. Some folk apply Tru Oil with lint-free cloth, some with a brush, some with their thumb. After each coat is dry, sand with 1000 grit wet & dry wet to get rid of any brush marks, dust bugs or minor runs. I use a sticky tack rag after a thorough wipe down before the coats - the slightest bit of dust will show. It sometimes takes a few attempts but, if you can be as dust free as possible, one of the coats will be run free, dust free and high gloss - STOP AT THIS POINT!!! After a few days, any small imperfections can be Autosol'd out (but be gentle - the coating is not very thick) or Birchwood Casey Wax - able The result - a fabulous guitar that smells like a well prepared cricket bat [attachment=83425:IMG_1503.jpg] Hope this has helped / inspired. Ask any questions you like - if I can answer them I will. If any of you have better answers, I will happily steal the ideas from you Andy

[quote name='lanark' post='1276657' date='Jun 21 2011, 08:56 AM']My wife saw me looking at the pictures (of both the guitars you've veneered) and even SHE said that they were gorgeous.[/quote] My wife saw me posting pictures to something called Gear Porn and called the solicitors

[quote name='Bigwan' post='1278088' date='Jun 22 2011, 08:01 AM']One of the best threads I've ever seen on here! My ATK better run and hide. cos the sandpaper's coming out soon! Where did you source your veneer Andy?[/quote] Flattery will get you absolutely anywhere Thanks I use the dreaded Ebay - there are quite a few suppliers about on and off ebay, but two I have had good experiences with include Specialised Veneers and Freed Veneers. It is a case of keeping your eye out for some that comeup occasionally with a pleasing pattern or effect. The particular one used on the Jaguar Bass (I think its a type of Amboyna but not certain) I have never seen again. Nice examples of American Burl Walnut (used on the Ibanez) however, is fairly common Thanks for your interest and encouraging words

This looks great, Ross Is the colour natural through the varnish (esp the neck) or did you tint it? Andy

Any Yamaha; any Squier The great thing about companies who market v expensive models is that they simply cannot risk their reputation with a rubbish entry-level models. Within that, I have to say that Squiers are sometimes built to a budget but I have yet to play ANY Yamaha (acoustic 6; semi-6 ; electric 6; bass; soprano sax; alto sax; even a bloody keyboard!) that hasn't sounded, looked and felt like something hundreds of £ more expensive. Andy

Hi, Wayne Some really great bits of kit here. I've hankered after a Hudson for some time - this looks fabulous. Nice to see the Jaguar too. I assume its the Squier VM like mine? I had to sort the neck pocket out (it had been chiselled away at the body end!!??), but once I had and put some D'Addario Chromes on, it now sounds FANTASTIC. As you say, it's like a PJ on heat and with tremendous versatility and warmth. I am printing out your thread to try and convince my wife that this is the absolute minimum number of basses that any self-respecting musician should have Andy