Andyjr1515

[quote name='scojack' timestamp='1446735678' post='2901873'] I have done something similar in the past although I glue my headstock under the neck wood which eventually pushes the join well into the headstock. I would then remove some material from the sides of the headstock wood and then glue in some 'wings'. This had the effect of hiding the scarf join completely from the sides with two unjointed pieces running down each side of the headstock (hope this makes sense). Now i don't bother, i leave the scarf join visible at the side of the headstock (it is covered by top/bottom veneers though), if its a good tight join you don't even notice it. This way i can start with a very slim neck blank (~20mm) and don't waste as much material. Ian [/quote] Interesting pointers, Ian. I suppose the fatal flaw for me doing the more conventional approach is that telling 'if its a good tight join...' proviso Thanks - useful stuff. I'm picking up a disc sander tomorrow that might get my joints a bit flatter, squarer and straighter. On the build after this one, I might give it a whirl (excusing the pun) Andy

Rain has stopped play temporarily (my workshop is my back patio) but the exciting news is that all the rest of the timber has arrived: A couple of lovely straight and true outer mahogany neck splices and walnut inner splice and a nice ebony fingerboard, slotted to 24 fret 34" from David Dyke...and some excellent wenge 1.5mm constructional veneer from The Wood Veneer Hub for the demarcation between the camphor top and alder back. So ref my sometimes unorthodox way of going about things, I'm interested if anyone does the same as me ref the angled headstock. I've seen some great scarfe-jointed headstocks (by some great builders) but generally I'm not keen on the visual impact of a standard scarfe. But - unless you want to go down the 50 years and counting Gibson debacle of broken headstocks - I do like the extra strength of the scarfe. So what I do, is scarfe the inner splice and leave the outer splices alone. For those who don't know what I'm talking about - a scarfe joint cuts and flips the headstock end so that the grain direction is along the headsock, eliminating the very dodgy grain direction at the nut / volute area of the neck found on a standard cut shape: My logic is that, doing this on the inner splice and leaving the outer splices as straight-grained blanks you still get the extra strength, but it is hidden. Anyone else do this?

[quote name='Simon.' timestamp='1446718767' post='2901650'] That looks amazing! Sort of reminds me of the da Vinci anatomy drawings, where he shows all the muscle groups... [/quote] Thanks, Simon! Sort of know where you're coming from...similarly, this myrtle veneer (applied to a Yamaha fretless) always reminds me of schoolbook drawings of a lung dissection : I think maybe we both need to get out more... Andy

OK - I'm going to wade in my my size 12's here... If you just want to assemble a bass, but want it to look the tops, Warmoth is the way to go, but very very expensive. BUT if you want to do more than that - if you want to also do the finishing as well, and are using it as a learning / source of satisfaction with a pretty good chance of a half decent end result, I would heartily recommend the kit ranges from [url="http://www.gear4music.com/Bass-Guitars/DIY-Basses"]Gear4music here[/url] At [b]less than £70 for EVERYTHING[/b], except the glue, stain and varnish, you really can't go far wrong. You will want to put some better strings on and, if it turns out nice build-wise, worth considering popping some better pickups and maybe hardware. I suspect the Thomann kits are just as good but don't have first hand on those. 'The Fretboard' forum ran a Summer Challenge last year to get a Gear4music kit and either just build it or pimp it up. There were around 30 entries - including a number of basses - and very, very few quality issues reported. Most people were well impressed with the quality of the timber and machining. I know I was. I did a 6 string, [b]which is now my main gigging guitar[/b], and has been since I finished it over a year ago!!!! Here it is (and yes - I well and truly pimped mine up): The quality of the machining on mine was unbelievable at that price point. There are better kits around - some are stunning quality - but bang for buck and for starters, this is the way I would go... Andy

It is of no surprise to me anymore that the look and quality of this is tip toeing on a step ladder higher than top drawer stuff. Apart from the drivel I've just come out with, words fail me ... Ref the pickups, I've been more than impressed with the Seymour Duncan 2 band EQ designed for passive pickups. To me, it's the best of both worlds. The 3 band is also great, but too many options for my limited sonic capabilities. Can't wait to see the finished article

...or you can re oil them which is very, very straightforward

Wenge 1.5mm constructional veneer on it's way ; mahogany and walnut neck splices on their way ; AAA grade ebony fretboard on its way

[quote name='Mykesbass' timestamp='1446136716' post='2897246'] Decided to bolt it all together to see how it is coming along. Bit of a shock first time, in that the beck fitted the pocket very poorly. Took it back off and shimmed either side, top with two strips of cereal packet, bottom with one. This seemed to line it up much better, and then when I screwed it back on it was much better. Strange, as it was still using all the original holes. Still need to do all the electrics, and get a new nut - the old one is a bit grotty. [/quote] That looks yummy!

[quote name='scojack' timestamp='1446132883' post='2897205'] The best bits always seem to land over a pickup . Going to be killer Andy, i'm warming to that top horn too:) [/quote] Thanks, all ! I'm very excited about this build - I think it will look great when it's carved. FuNkShUi and I have agreed that, as well as the defined alder area at the forearm cutaway, the edge shape will be as option 'C' below: That means that there will be the lighter alder visible for the whole body profile...the visual effect should be to reduce the 'bulk' of the top horn that makes so many single cuts look a bit heavy and out of proportion. I have clearly in my head what this is going to look like when it's finished ...and it's going to be LOVELY

[quote name='Mykesbass' timestamp='1446124868' post='2897090'] Very handsome! [/quote] Thanks!

By the way, the fretboard above is just a bit of spare ebony I have in my stash to get the broad look right - the final shape for both style and maximum fret provision and accessibility will be something FuNkShUi and I will decide further down the building path

Inevitably, with this sort of fancy top thing - and veneering too - the really interesting features are always covered by the pickups, bridge or neck.... Nevertheless, trying the top in the various configurations, this is going to be the best looking orientation: I tried the other 3 combinations, each one working out where the bridge and pickups will be, and this way round has the best 'flow' to it. If the weather is dry this afternoon or tomorrow, I'll cut the shape out. In the meantime while I'm suck indoors I'll be trialling the demarcation veneer options.

Have just re-read the thread from the beginning and wow, what a transformation from where this started. At the end of all this you will have a very nice bass from what started off looking like a complete write-off. Inspiring for many of us, I'm sure

The spindle is 14mm. The inside diameter of the bush is, of course, the same. The outside diameter of the bush, and the drilled hole is around 18mm. Hope this helps. Andy

Sorry for the delay... I'll do it right now!

[quote name='Mattpt85' timestamp='1446023978' post='2896198'] Cheers Guys haven't had chance to try it out yet, need to do some fiddling with the bridge/neck first. funkshui I would say go for it! It's hard at first but I've learnt so much through trial and error (with the help of t'internet of course) If I'm even half as competent as Andy one day it would be a miracle! [/quote] I use those special plastic pants with tight elasticated openings...

That's looking really good, Dom. Can't wait to see what it's like with the finish applied

That looks soooo much better, Mykesbass! Great job and worth the extra hassle.

Coming on nicely.....I like the shaping you've done very much. Looks very classy

Love it, Mattpt85 Andy

Thanks for the encouraging comments, folks. When it stops raining, I'll cut the camphor to shape, but then need to wait for the neck timbers to arrive before I can do a lot more. In the meantime, I'll do some trials with some of the off cuts of the camphor and alder and demarcation veneer

Hi I have the full scale VM Jaguar but presume they are the same tuners. Later in the morning, I can check what size they are. To be absolutely sure, just take one off and measure it. The size they quote is the diameter of the cylinder that fits into the wood. Easiest way of measuring if you don't have callipers, is to measure the diameter of the hole in the headstock

There would need to be a lot wrong for that eBay neck to be not worth the money, Bryan! If it was a fender neck, it would be worth paying a similar cost to try to fix it, but if it was me, I'd risk a punt on a new one at that price - you occasionally get a bummer, but most of the time they are very good!

The weather was kind this morning so a bit more progress I squared up and straightened the mating faces of the camphor and glued it. Here it is in the sash clamps...I'd just wiped the excess glue off with a damp cloth and just look at that figuring! This is pretty much the colour and effect it will be when it's sanded and finished Close up, there's quilting and bird's-footing and all-sorts going on! I also cut the alder blanks with my dinky bandsaw, ready to glue to the neck when that has been glued together. Must remember to order the separating dark veneer just in case the progress spurt continues! Andy

[quote name='GCYPbass' timestamp='1444844210' post='2886669'] I thought about the dowel to fill the hole but first the holes are not even as the previous owner did horrible job and the second I am a bit scared of stripping the paint off while levelling it. [/quote] Before you put the dowel in, pop some masking tape over to protect the paint and cut the hole out with a sharp knife. When the dowel is in, cut it flush with a flexi saw ( Stanley fat max or Irvine - both cheap from Homebase / B&Q), then peel off the masking tape before the glue dries