icastle

Of course it's a fake - it has the word 'Genuine' in it.. Also, the pixelation around the logo doesn't match the rest of the image.

[quote name='DanOwens' post='1207550' date='Apr 21 2011, 09:28 PM']I've sent this to Liam. I know he was hoping for a 'gaffa will do it' response. [/quote] Gaffa will do it - as long as he adds a few other bits and pieces as well...

You'll not get wood filler to stay in the hole. Best thing you could do would be to use wood glue in the hole and fill it with bits of snapped off cocktail sticks (it's denser than matchstick wood) until you can't force any more wood in there. Using a dremel type tool, drill a new pilot hole for the wood screw once the glue has set overnight.

[quote name='flyfisher' post='1206935' date='Apr 21 2011, 11:49 AM']Would that work with an AC waveform though? Could easily add a bias circuit I guess but that moves things away from a passive solution . . .[/quote] A GP signal diode (1N4148 for example) should cope with an AC waveform without clipping it (1N400n series are the rectifiers). Thinking about it a little further, a piezo can't create enough voltage to drive another piezo. I don't know what the threshold is, but it could be that seperating the piezos into two 'clumps' of 4 and running it as a stereo pair might circumvent the need for extra components (and complexity).

[quote name='flyfisher' post='1206205' date='Apr 20 2011, 06:20 PM']If these are the devices I think they are, then they are basically the same as those piezo "sounders" often used in cheap products that need to make some sort of noise. Basically, if mechanical energy is applied to the device (e.g. sound vibrations) then you'll get a small voltage waveform out (i.e. behaves like a microphone), but if electrical energy is applied to the device (e.g. an audio signal) then the device will vibrate and emit a sound. So, if you connect a number of devices together (in parallel) then the mechanical vibrations applied to one device will "energise" the other devices and cause them to vibrate. With eight devices connected in parallel, there will be all sorts of complex interactions between them as they are simultanously energised by the vibrations from the sound source and the electrical outputs from the other devices.[/quote] Simplest solution there would be to stick a diode on each piezo to stop the voltage from one piezo from energising it's partners...

[quote name='Gust0o' post='1204282' date='Apr 18 2011, 11:23 PM']I thought there was a new law that we all had to have hot women, to cover up for being burly men?! [/quote] Ive not got the hang of pretending to be a burly man yet, hiow the hell am I gonna cope with being a hot woman?

[quote name='Lozz196' post='1205689' date='Apr 20 2011, 12:13 PM']Having been in the same situation, you can generally get away with it if you put one original in between at least 4 or 5 well known songs that people are happy to dance to. And, whilst introducing them, do it later in the set, when they`re reaching their enjoyment peak - as in, have drunk lots. Once these songs become better known, they can be brought forward in the set, and the process repeated with newer originals. I would still think that 50/50 is pushing it though, unless to an audience that fully knows your own songs already. Otherwise, 75/25 would be the maximum to a completely fresh audience, in my view.[/quote] +1 That sounds spot on to me.

There's no device (or lead) on the market that I've seen that'll do this. If volume control is (as Liam has already stated) unimportant then I guess the easiest option would be to use a small box with 9 sockets wired in parallel (8 inputs and one output). It's rather crude though and there are a number of practicalities around impedance and size to consider. If we knew what the ultimate goal is we might be able to suggest a better solution.

[quote name='Dudgeman' post='1204320' date='Apr 19 2011, 12:25 AM']I use this amp along side a Marshall head to achieve a bi amp system. At rehearsal the other day turned on the amp and struggled to get any significant output volume. It was also distorting, sounded like a farty speaker (sorry but it is the best description I can think of) at certain frequencies..Ab and G specifically. I only use this for a warm clean bass sound running the graphic fairly flat..bass knob at about 1 o'clock..the rest at about 12 o'clock..Speakers are fine..definitely an amp problem.... Anyone got an ideas as to the cause of a significant drop in output volume? Just to save the questions..i have checked cables..volume control knob (Hasn't come loose) thought it might be my bass so checked on a different amp..no problem there.. Any help gratefully received. Thanks[/quote] As you're running a bi-amped setup, the first thing to do would be to isolate the two halves of the setup and see if the problem is still there. If you still get distortion then I'd take a look at the 'valve drive' controls and make sure they're not adding to or creating the problem. As far as I'm aware, if you have the 'valve drive' control set to 'out' then it makes no difference if the valves are shot or not. I have to say though, it is unusual to find a frequency selective amp problem and I'd be more inclined to look at the speakers again. HTH

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1202770' date='Apr 17 2011, 05:42 PM']f*** me he got £185 for it!!!!! thats about £155 too much unless we have missed a rare opportunity [/quote] I wonder what other 'rare' items he's going to find kicking around to rebrand?

I go to three different plug n play nights each month and I wrote this article for one of them but it describes all of them. [i]The first time I walked into a plug and play night it looked like total chaos! An audience comprised of musicians from different genres and different levels of musical ability, guitarists, percussionists, singers and a healthy smattering of non musicians as well. But behind this seemingly chaotic surface there was a lot more going on. Musicians were swapping techniques, asking questions and getting advice on everything from the best way to tune a djembe to the pros and cons of different brands of guitar strings. With such a mixed group of abilities, some performances were better than others, but the thing that struck me was the degree of support and genuine appreciation that each act received from the audience. Regardless of ability, everyone was there for exactly the same thing – to perform to the best of their abilities. A few years on and I’m now seeing many of those same beginners getting up and doing some really great performances, with a few of them now easily as good as some of the session guys I’ve worked with over the years! These nights are worth their weight in gold when it comes to networking with other musicians and I’ve seen a fair number of duos, trios and full blown bands form from these events. For the technophobe's, there’s no need to worry about PA systems, wires, plugs and getting your sound right, that will all be done for you with the minimum of fuss so you can concentrate on your performance. Most of these nights are pretty relaxed about musical genre but they do have an emphasis on ‘acoustic style’, so bear that in mind and don’t make any plans to perform grunge metal with a Gibson Les Paul. Electric instruments are acceptable at most venues, provided they are necessary and in keeping with the performance. Check with the organiser if you aren’t certain. If you find being solo on stage a lonely experience, most of these events have a few musicians who, after an obviously misspent childhood, are willing and able to get up with just about anyone and support you on stage if you need it. Ask the organiser – they will know exactly who fits the bill. So, Plug and Play nights – entertainment, networking, learning aid, an experience booster, a sounding board for new ideas and a musical support network all rolled into one…it’ll never catch on…[/i]

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1201986' date='Apr 16 2011, 05:44 PM']Does anyone even agree with the 70's bit? never mind the MM bit.[/quote] Nope. Looks far too clean to be 40 years old. At the very outside I'd guess this to be a 90's cheapy copy that someone has stuck a MM transfer onto. This is a prime example of why I get so p*ssed off with people when they ask 'where can I buy Fender transfers from?' - someone has either been ripped off already or is about to be.

Incredibly rare. Novel machine head layout for an MM... although the overall design of it is strangely familiar... Is it one of those MusicMan Letraset Special Edition models?

[quote name='LITTLEWING' post='1201739' date='Apr 16 2011, 12:24 PM']Cheers for that. I have an RBX375 which has separate bass and treble eq's, I just wondered if the 775 was intended to to anything else that I was missing out on. NOT that it needs it. I have to say, it's the best bass I've owned to date.[/quote] Nope, I don't think you're missing out on anything. There's no real detailed info about the 775, other than the usual stuff, but they're very similar to the 375 looking at the specs. I'd guess that the 775 and 375 being so similar to each other is what led to Yamaha discontinuing the 775.

[quote name='LITTLEWING' post='1201663' date='Apr 16 2011, 11:03 AM']Just out of curiosity, someone mentioned a fault with the Yamaha RBX 775 when it came out a while back. I've just acquired one, and when swithced to active the volume does volume and the tone does tone but with more oomph. Is this what it does or is there something more to be had ? I'm not complaining, it sounds bloody awesome even in passive mode, and that neck - soooo gawjuss !![/quote] Nothing wrong with that - it's exactly what it's supposed to do. In simplistic and technically nonchalent terms, a passive bass works by cutting frequencies and an active bass works by boosting frequencies.

[quote name='BottomEndian' post='1200662' date='Apr 15 2011, 01:42 PM']I'm not going to rise to tha... DAMMIT.[/quote]

[quote name='dmccombe7' post='1200655' date='Apr 15 2011, 01:40 PM']Have you got them newtered now before the number increases and you are not able to get out the house. ? Mmm would save on carpets though - catpets [/quote] All the remaining ones are neutered now and I've pulled all the carpets out and taken them up to the tip. On a positive note, the floorboards look rather nice so I'm going to sand and seal them and do without carpets.

Well I'm down to 4 now which is an easily managable number.

[quote name='wateroftyne' post='1200519' date='Apr 15 2011, 12:05 PM']If I was confronted with a guitarist like this, it wouldn't really bother me. I'd just work out what chords he's playing and crack on. Life's too short. Welcome to folk music.[/quote] +1 How long does it take to find the root of the chord? One second, perhaps two? Once you have that then it's up to you as the bass player to either stick with that root note or to do something a little more interesting if it adds to the music. There are stacks of really nice players out there who come up with decidedly odd looking chords and can't name them. "I was just mucking about and found it" isn't an uncommon refrain. It's just the way it always has been and it's unlikely to change.

[quote name='Simon.' post='1199452' date='Apr 14 2011, 02:34 PM']The tone cap position is a weird one. I'll put it all back together first and try it out, and then see what difference moving it to the correct position makes![/quote] It does the same job, albeit it in a rather cack handed way. From your description of pots not being earthed together and a single wire going to the jack socket, I'm guessing that they were trying to avoid soldering onto pot casings where possible.

[quote name='Hector' post='1199445' date='Apr 14 2011, 02:28 PM']NL2s fixed it! [/quote] Excellent

[quote name='Gareth Hughes' post='1199426' date='Apr 14 2011, 02:16 PM']FWIW - I remember reading something (don't ask me where) a while back about speakon connectors on Markbass heads being a little prone to bad connections. As the owner of an LMK and previously an F500 I totally agree. Seeing as the sockets can accept jack or speakon I just use jacks, but it's still frustrating.[/quote] Check you're using NL2 plugs and not NL4's...

[quote name='Hector' post='1199099' date='Apr 14 2011, 10:05 AM']Roger. I'm nipping in to town to pick up some cable with NL2 connectors. I'm going to come clean and admit that I never knew there were different sorts of connectors on these cables! How thick am I?! Shows my roots as a double bass player - pretty clueless about amps from years of gigging acoustically.... Hopefully the cable will fit properly with the NL2s. Thanks for the help all! Will report back with tales of woe/joy.[/quote] No worries Hector, I'd be quite comfortable to bet that there are thousands of other people making exactly the same mistake as I type this.

[quote name='Hector' post='1198895' date='Apr 13 2011, 11:20 PM']Cable locks into the cab properly at both ends. The speakon jack on the amp is a moulded unit, so would be easy to replace but is not still under warranty. Don't trust myself to do it, so I suppose I'll have to take it to a local music shop or someting....sigh. One other thing is that the jack on the amp is definitely a NL2 - maybe I have the wrong sort of speakon cable?[/quote] Easiest way to tell them apart is:- NL4 plugs usually have a little metal catch that you have to slide towards yourself before you rotate the plug to remove it. NL2 plugs usually have a plastic collar that you have to pull towards yourself before you rotate the plug to remove it. If you have NL4 plugs then that is probably where the wear has come from, they'll work but eventually the locking mechanism on the socket gives out. If you're going to replace the socket then I'd probably be tempted to have them fit an NL4 socket (wired as an NL2 of course) then it doesn't matter what anyone shoves in it.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1198762' date='Apr 13 2011, 09:43 PM']I has never seen a knackered speakon socket.[/quote] NL2FC plug in an NL4MP socket is ok, but use an NL4FC plug in an NL2MP socket and they don't like it too much. NL4FC's are the plugs of the devil...