danhkr

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1136105' date='Feb 21 2011, 08:00 PM']Originals bands yes, Functions/Covers no.[/quote] +1

[quote name='RhysP' post='1113321' date='Feb 3 2011, 12:33 AM']I stopped using DR strings years ago as I got fed up with returning duff sets. Bass, electric guitar & acoustic guitar sets were all the same. Gamlins in Cardiff stopped stocking DR strings because of the amount of sets they were having brought back.[/quote] Thinking about it, could be something to do with the fact that unlike most other brands, DR are handmade. I suppose if, for whatever reason, that makes them better, it could also mean more margin for error.

Can't really comment on the Roto swing bass because they're stainless and all stainless strings feel rough and clanky to me. I have been using their Rotobass nickels though and they're really nice. Much smoother and as good as ernies in my opinion but almost half the price.

They're good solid basses, always have been. They can be a bit heavy and uninspiring at times, but the lack of 60's stuff and the prices they fetchs mean 70's gear has now become sought-after, obtainable vintage. I think the styling has also come back into fashion. Also the re-issue market can have a big effect. I remember seeing a natural 75 jazz in a shop a few years ago for £899, 2 months later Fender had a USA 75 reissue out at £1500! After that prices of original 70's stuff started to rise in accordance.

The advantage of using two (8ohm) cabs is that you'll be running the amp at 4ohms which means you'll get the full 575 watts of power out of the amp. Using just one (8ohm) cab will reduce the power somewhat, although as AndyMartin says, it'll still be loud enough for most 'usual' gigs. Really the issue is down to whether you think the extra power and headroom is worth the expense and the lugging around of an extra cab.

[quote name='Russ' post='1088401' date='Jan 13 2011, 06:16 PM']Plus Ashdown have finally come out with a 6x10"! [/quote] Yeah, I've had one for a while and it's a really good cab. A lot cheaper than going for separate 4x10 and 2x10 too.

[quote name='luckman67' post='1079741' date='Jan 6 2011, 12:41 PM']Are the bodies on the Squier CV the same thickness as the Fender MIM.[/quote] More or less. I've not noticed any huge difference.

[quote name='Shire' post='1079496' date='Jan 6 2011, 08:59 AM']But with no BA bridge and the option of a maple neck[/quote] and obviously gloss finished rather than the thin matt finish the HW1's have.

[quote name='Chris2112' post='1072024' date='Dec 29 2010, 07:17 PM']Thats a lot of money for what it is, when I get a sneaking suspicion that a Classic Vibe Precision would be a better buy.[/quote] Have you tried one?

[quote name='spongebob' post='1073914' date='Dec 31 2010, 06:19 PM']Trouble is, they creep over the £300 mark, and [b]you can get a new MIM for about £380[/b], so that's quite a tough market to get into.....[/quote] Really?! Where?

Odd to compare because essentially it's a modern bass verses a vintage reissue. Build quality aside, initially a lot of that is down to personal taste (neck shape, gloss finish etc). Personally I find the HW1 a fairly big jump in quality, but again if you prefer gloss necks with a vintage profile you'll probably be more at home with the CV. I could reel out specs saying how much better the wood, hardware, components, pickups etc are on a HW1, but as most people have already said, the main thing is which one you prefer to play and most like the tone of.

I always use nickel strings because they're smoother than stainless steel and warmer sounding. Until recently I used EB Slinkys which I was always happy with, but tried some cheap Rotosound 'Roto Bass' and to be honest they were just as good as the slinkys, but nearly half the price. I'd certainly be interested in trying a new set of DR's to compare, but unless they're a [i]huge[/i] improvement on the Rotosounds or lasted twice as long, I'm not convinced they'd be worth the extra outlay for me.

The vast majority of strings are hex core. Certain brands make round core strings and they tend to be a bit more flexible and (IMO) seem to have less mid-range. Personally I think whether the string is stainless steel or nickel makes a bigger difference to the tone than core shape.

thanks guys, much appreciated

Got chance of an old Boss CE-2 chorus pedal at a reasonable price. I know a few bassists use them but was wondering if they suffer from the same sort of 'reduced bottom end' that guitar distortions can when used on bass? I know there are dedicated bass chorus pedals out there, so didn't want to waste my money if the CE-2 isn't really suited. Any advice/opinions appreciated.

[quote name='dood' post='1059894' date='Dec 15 2010, 07:12 PM']I love the Korg Pitchblack tuner. It's small, built like a proverbial outhouse and very acurate. It even tunes my low F# strings - something I've seen lots of tuners struggle with. As for effects, maybe you could link us to some YT videos that you like the sounds of and we'll have a go at telling you how to go about getting those tones if you are unsure.[/quote] +1 The pitchblack is great, a lot better than the TU-2 in my opinion. Is amazingly good on low strings without the need to use harmonics.

I like both but I have a slight preference for the playability and sounds of a jazz and the styling and controls of a precision. Having said that, my Roadworn 50's P has a very big neck which I love, but for lengthy gigs I prefer a jazz neck for it's ease of use. I recently picked up a MIM deluxe p-bass which has a jazz neck, and p and j pickups. It's also active, so although it's a precision in looks, it's a million miles away from the road worn, and cuts through and plays just like a jazz. Despite having two pickups, it's also got a single 'master' volume (another feature I prefer from a precision).

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1052702' date='Dec 9 2010, 01:27 PM'][b]Go in and try one[/b], if the neck feels pukka then it's a goer for modding.[/quote] Thats the key really. You can spend fortunes customising a guitar, but essentially it's still the same basic neck and body whatever else you add to it. Got to make sure the thing is good enough in the first place and I'd have serious doubts at that price.

[quote name='JMT3781' post='1032690' date='Nov 22 2010, 02:50 PM']yeah.. after checking out the online prices.. thinking twice about ordering them in.. those online prices are about 100 quid less than the rep has quoted us as RRP's... Long live the internet lol![/quote] sadly thats fender for you

There's colours I prefer and colours I'm not so keen on, as there are shapes and styles of bass. Generally if it's a bass I like, I'm not too picky about colour.

I like the VM stuff, but I actually think the Classic Vibe stuff is the better series to go for. Maybe some will disagree, but they just seem to be that little bit nicer finished and they all tend to have gloss necks which gives them that more expensive feel.

[quote name='RussFM' post='1042223' date='Nov 30 2010, 12:30 PM']I played the P, but bought the Jazz because I prefer the shape, but both are great basses, well made, US electronics, definitely a step up from the quality of the MIM Standards. [u][b]The pre-amp isn't great,[/b][/u] I'm eventally going to swap mine out for a J-Retro, and the bridge had a nasty rattle, but that's normal for the Fender bridge so I swapped it out for a Bad Ass II. I think they've gone up in price recently but second hand ones usually show up for around £350.[/quote] In what way is it lacking?

I've always preferred p-basses, but love the jazz bass playability and tones. This deluxe p-bass has a jazz neck and bridge pickup. It's also got active circuitry. Has anyone had/tried one of these? Any opinions?? Thanks [url="http://www.fender.com/uk/products/search.php?partno=0135760359"]Fender Deluxe Acitve P Bass Special[/url]