Jakester

I would have assumed provided the 15” is 8ohm and/or you don’t go below 4ohms in total, it’d probably be fine.

Thanks Al, sounds perfect then!

Did you mean the soul food? That’s one of the ones I’ve taken a look at, ta.

+1. £18 an absolute bargain.

Excellenté. Thanks chaps. And it’s looking cheap too! Marvellous.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a simple drive pedal? I’m moving from a TC amp which had their Tubedrive in it, and I occasionally used it to get a warmer vintage style tone by having it at about 3 or 4 on the dial. New amp doesn’t have any effects so looking to add just a smidge of drive every now and again. It’s not a core part of “my sound” so I can live without but if anyone has any recommendations for a simple single stomp box (as opposed to something with eq and gubbins like a Sansamp or GK Plex) lthat might do the job, it’s be appreciated. Even better if it’s relatively cheap. Ta.

I’m not sure as to the fidelity of them, but the drumstick company Vic Firth do drummer-specific (I.e. greater isolation) over the ear phones which may be a cost effective way of trying the idea out? Otherwise I have some old Panasonic studio phones which have great isolation, so might be worth trying to find something like that?

Can't be any mention without JTQ: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vAdPFM3u5fM

This is really useful stuff, thanks v much Mr Hands. I've tried to get the bowed effect on a couple of tunes by 'violining' the volume knob after sounding the note but it's quite hit and miss. I haven't looked at the tuba parts - good tip. As for the high parts, I think it's in part down the idiosyncrasies of the ensemble as some of the players are doing arrangements, but without quite realising the range of the instruments they're arranging for!

5th fret.

Yes, I agree - there's one piece where the low D (i.e. using the detuner) just rings out without anything else and it's really noticeable if it's not there. Fairly sure. I'm playing as written i.e. open E is one ledger line below the stave, and C at 5th fret on the G string is written as middle C. Well, I'm not quite sight reading but not far off. Interesting, thanks - I have seen a few comments that the high C string can sound a little weak on some instruments.

I’m toying with the idea of buying a new bass. Yay! At the moment, I don’t play much but what I am doing is playing with a sort of “casual orchestra” - set up by a mate, it’s kind of a concert band for people who used to play (eg at school) and want to get back into playing in an ensemble. There’s brass, woodwind, strings, percussion and me on bass. The tunes are concert band/swing band classics and bespoke arrangements, so there’s usually a bass part (albeit sometimes it’s string bass but I wing it). I play a 4 string at the mo. Anyway, a lot of these parts are written in the higher register (around middle C) so there’s a lot of ledger notes and playing up the neck on the g string. However, there are also a couple of parts which drop below low E (one goes down to B!) which I either play up an octave or (in the case of D or Eb) can get away with using a detuner. Ive been thinking whether a 5er strung E to C might be useful with a detuner, but recently had a go with a Yamaha TRB1006 which got me thinking that if I can cope with a 5er, could I cope with a 6er? So, does anyone have any experience making the transition? Anyone swap between 5 and 6 or 4 and 6? Either way, I’d probably be looking for a Yamaha TRB (and I’ve seen the lovely 6er one in the classifieds at the mo but it’s a bit rich for my blood so likely a TRB II or one of the new Korean ones). Should I just suck it up and learn to get around the fretboard better?

😳🤪👍

A short coda to this. I decided to replace the side dot markers; well, initially I decided to replace all the fret line markers as well, but after taking about 15 mins to make a small dent in my test fret line, I decided I could probably live with the darkened lines. However, after a few days' playing it became apparent that the board wasn't sealed properly - it was showing string marks even though I was using flats - so I decided to refinish it at the same time. So, I picked up some 2mm dot plastic, and (with varying degrees of success) drilled out the existing markers and put new ones in. It's safe to say if you're a fan of squiffy markers then you'll love this - but they do the job. The filling of the existing holes was less than optimal, but after refinishing a real cheat's touch up with a black pen means they're indistinguishable at more than a couple of inches. I re-sanded the fingerboard too - I realised where I went wrong the first time (which led to the discolouration) was not putting a couple of coats of Tru-oil on first, before the slurry sanding. So, after sanding the FB down to 600 grit (which led to a much more consistent colour in the maple inserts, thankfully) I applied a couple of coats of Tru-oil, let that harden and THEN started the wet sanding. Did a few passes over a couple of days, and then finished with a couple of very thin, finger-applied coats on top. Plays beautifully (at least, to me!) and looks a LOT better. Dots make it easier to play, albeit the slightly skew-whiff ones make my teeth itch. Still, a satisfying end result (more or less!).

All finished and strung up, and immediately a workmanship issue has come to the fore: I didn't clean out the fret slots before filling, which meant that the fret markers don't extend to the edge of the fretboard. Meaning, I can't see where the fret edges are when playing! Looks like I'll be more out of tune than I thought! 😂

Yep - this experience has showed me I should probably have used darker wood, or plastic. Filled the tear-outs with dust and SG, but they're showing as a very different colour. Hopefully they'll take on the oil and settle to the same as the FB. First coat of tru-oil slurry sanding was very disappointing - it seems I should have been more careful with the maple inserts, as some of them have taken on a much darker hue from the slurry, so I have an uneven finish to the fret markers, which is a shame given the effort. I may just get my lad's colouring pens and even them out! On the upside, the FB feels silky smooth after 1200 grit and first slurry sand. I'm sure it'll be perfectly functional, just not quite as nice looking as I'd have hoped. After 240 grit: Up to 600 grit after wiping the dust off: (not sure why pics are showing upside down...

Didn't know! Do now - out with the soap, cheers!

So, I've been busy... I thought I'd document my very amateurish progress on my first ever project! Neck after defret and a quick sand to remove sharp edges: Slots filled with cuts of maple veneer. Superglue used. I started using the veneer strips cut with the grain, and then thought I'd try cutting against the grain. BIG mistake - it's much more difficult to trim by knife and really didn't like being sanded. After trimming and a quick rough sand to partially level the veneer. In retrospect, I wouldn't use SG again as it has stained the fretboard. Hopefully the finishing sanding will clear the staining though. Had a couple of bits of veneer break out when sanding - obviously not an even enough layer of SG. So, I have Tru-oil - I just need to get some finer grade sandpaper and some wire wool. Hoping to finish it tomorrow!

😂 If you knew me you’d know how totally untrue that statement was, but nice of you to say! 😉

Nope - veneer for the fret slots (to give lines).

Yes, it was more about just taking off the old fret edges, filling the slots and sanding smooth, but wondered if there is any better/worse option to try whilst I had it in bits. Maple veneer ordered, and now trying to decide whether to try a Tru-oil finish or poly varnish on the FB (only intending to use flats).

Ah, that possibly makes more sense! Not looking to change anything in particular but if a specific radius would work better for fretless than fretted I could go with that - otherwise I’ll just stick with what it’s got.