Mr. Foxen

[quote name='ern500evo' timestamp='1381052610' post='2233681'] I made my mind up I wanted a lightweight cab and that after much browsing of their website a barefaced was the answer. I actually put a deposit on a S15 but after filling in the e-form and a few emails back and forth with Alex he sent me the spec for the Big Twin 2, bit the bullet and went for it. After reading people's views on it at the SE bash I'm so glad I did. Can't wait for it to arrive now. If you're ever in the Bristol area and fancy a blast let me know, I live about 2 mins from our rehearsal space which is always available and volume not an issue!! :-D [/quote] Can you bring it round to my big pile of valve amps and see how it work out with them? Assume its easier to move than a big pile of valve amps. Got a video thing.

Lacquered maple cleans easier, clean fingerboard keeps strings clean, clean strings are brighter. Rosewood gets a nice played in look, maple gets a nasty played in look.

I've picked up a USA made strat type thing by Peavey for £20.

I'd be tempted to take it off and take the tension out of the truss rod ans see what it does. Let it sit about for a while, and see where it goes. LAter clamp it in about the right relief before tightening the truss to that point, rather than using the rod to force it into the right place.

[quote name='skidder652003' timestamp='1380907394' post='2232342'] Hey Guys, i didnt want to start a war! Im happy to admit I wrecked the driver, as alex guessed, I play in a stupid loud band but i did think that 2 x 400W drivers into a 700W cab would be fine, obviously I wasnt aware of quite how important it was to get the cab measurements correct, I just thought the worst that could happen was that it might sound Sh*t rather than destroy (the good) one. Hopefully the guys at Blue Aran might take some of this discussion on board and put up a advisory. [/quote] Watts are pretty meaningless, near totally, other factors dominate. Think the specs that comes into play here is xmax vs xlim, the closer they are together, the less warning area there is, as the gap between them is the 'fart sound' part (xmax being clean excursion, xlim being destruction excursion). Xmax has increased in new generation drivers faster than xlim, so the warning area has shrunk. If you use a bit of distortion from elsewhere, cuts it down even more because the first part of the fart zone gets covered by it.

Best call matamp with the serial, they'll tell you everything right.

Throw up some ideas on what generally available speaker would be better for bass, assuming a desire for some upper mid content for actual definition. The Aguilar GS cabs are good and use a modified/OEM Delta12LFA, I find them a bit dark though.

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1380868599' post='2231622'] this thread reminds me a bit of putting a 12 litre turbo engine in a battered mini and then being surprised when the mini tears itself to bits under the torque [/quote] The problem is, in this case, the place where the 12 litre engine was purchased from has said that the engine isn't suitable for vehicles as the reason for it failing, rather than the mini being not suitable for such a large and powerful engine. Then they have come and said you should modify the mini with the 12 litre engine to only drive at certain speeds, and really, driving a car doesn't matter at all when the bus does all the travelling.

As I said, bandpassing is also used in Pa. Thing is, playing bass into a bass cab is a different thing from PA. The 'used correctly' is thrown out the window if the speaker is not being used correctly by being in an incorrectly tuned box. Compressors and limiters are optional for playing bass guitar, if you need one, rather than having a preference, something is wrong. Possibly the thing that is wrong is the tuning of your cabinet. Blaming the driver is entirely incorrect.

[quote name='alexclaber' timestamp='1380620797' post='2227845'] The driver in question is excellent for bass guitar. The damage is a clear case of both excursion and thermal overpowering. Most cheap bass cabs are tuned too high which means they'll unload on low note fundamentals. [/quote] [quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1380630582' post='2228069'] +1. As is the case with any and all drivers it must be loaded into a cab that is compatible with its specs. If one is to push it to maximum output the amp must at the very least be appropriately high passed, if not limited to the driver's safe operating voltage swing. It must have sounded really bad for quite some time to have sustained the damage that it did. Distortion is the driver's way of telling you that you're pushing it too hard. [/quote] Important thing is: the driver needs to be in an appropriately tuned enclosure. compression and bandpassing are bodges to get around the problems caused by not doing this. Retuning enclosures tends to not be very challenging, I've done it a lot, pm and I can run you through doing it.

Front of house is bandpassed to the relevant speakers for the job.

Why can't Americans grasp the concept that US dollars are not valid currency in the UK?

[quote name='AndyKos' timestamp='1380838459' post='2231477'] All im saying is different driver combinations will yield different results depending on what you are trying to achieve. Key thing with the 3015 is that it will need an appropriately tuned box, and in my opinion, a dynamics compressor to provide some protection. What you can achieve with a 3015LF and a tweeter will to some extent depend on the tweeter. [/quote] If what you are trying to achieve is a bas sound suitable for stuff other than dub/reggae, with a 3015LF, its a mid driver you'll need. Any driver needs an appropriately tuned box, and a high pass is a better thing for safety because a dynamics compresses, surprisingly, affects dynamics, which are a part of music, plus they increase the risk of thermal damage by increasing average power.

So that's two counts of Blue Aran staff not having the first clue about bass cabinets then.

[quote name='AndyKos' timestamp='1380836419' post='2231452'] Im not a bass player [/quote]

1x15s and 4x10s aren't really comparable, loads more everything with a 4x10, if stuff is otherwise roughly equivalent. That is why they are such a bad combination to mix. For clarity in the mids and easily sufficient low end handling capability the 3015 in an appropriately tuned box wins hands down. Adding a tweeter to a 3015LF will give you a two octave plus gap in the mids.

What's in V1 now? Be surprised is an ECC83 isn't stock. Better off having Matamp mod it for more gain.

[quote name='AndyKos' timestamp='1380831543' post='2231374'] Kappalite 3015LF is a much better choice than Kappalite 3015 for a bass guitar cab. [/quote] Not if you want some top and definition in your sound, and don't want to eq out a weird mid bump from using a driver outside its intended passband.

You still have the wiring in the cavities to deal with, use shielded wire should be enough since EMGs are already shielded, assuming they are active EMGS, not the passive line they do.

T-nuts, so they only fall off if you push on the screw and push them off, which you shouldn't need to do with allen bolts.

Pshh, why even bother learning to use your fingers, just use the bass to scratch your nuts. Actually playing notes is for jazzers.

[quote name='thebrig' timestamp='1380758413' post='2230333'] I hope the man at the back could hear you! [/quote] Can't hear anything any more.

A guy got upset because I deleted him from my business page for crying about prices, and decided to invent some rumours about my work not being very good. He got slapped down pretty quickly where he posted it, because lots of people there are familiar with my work via the blog I keep of it with big giant photos, but have to bear stuff like that in mind with internet feedback.

Think the Gryphon is 40 capacity. Still used a 2x15 and 4x12 for my set.

What amp is it? Don't put a switch on teh output, too much risk of killing it. Master volume control is probably a better place, avoiding a switch pop is going to be the biggest deal.