mcnach
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Everything posted by mcnach
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[quote name='luke Ray-Von' timestamp='1347153904' post='1797543'] Get a set up the will cost around 60 to £100 to level your frets stone the, etc which will help with the intonation etc will feel so much better [/quote] +1 this just seems the most reasonable way to proceed at this point. Much cheaper than a new bass, which may still need a proper set up anyway. I'm out.
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[quote name='Darkstrike' timestamp='1347114524' post='1797116'] I have no problem with front mounted jacks, just thought this one looks a bit close to two of the controls, especially if you're going to put active stuff in there. [/quote] oh, I see! You are right, it does look a little bit too close, but it has not been a problem when I've been playing with it. I'm ok with that. Now I'm thinking that if I make a new pickguard, I might as well bring the neck pickup down a bit, towards "Jazz neck" territory, which also makes it easier for me to slap/pop. So much entertainment from one bass... and that's before I even take it out to gigs!!!
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Gotoh Jazz bass pickups ***SOLD***
mcnach replied to mcnach's topic in Accessories & Other Musically Related Items For Sale
[quote name='tommorichards' timestamp='1347121240' post='1797199'] Yeah. We traded them a while back. No worries though. I sold the 5'er soapbar/p style ones I got from you as I don't think I'd ever get a fiver to stick them into. [/quote] I am terrible to remember names! [quote name='tommorichards' timestamp='1347121240' post='1797199'] Good lick with the sale dude. [/quote] they are good pickups, but not good enough to lick! -
[quote name='rallyeluke' timestamp='1347123788' post='1797229'] I love my GB74 I have owned it a long time and never really felt the need to replace it, I love the versatility of it and the way neck feels when playing. The electronics in active mode are not the greatest, especially the mid boost function and it all sounds a little fake but switch it to passive mode and it growls away and responds very nicely to different playing styles How long have you owned yours for? and what colour?? Blue is best but natural looks lush aswell I am interested in the pickups and eagerly await a picture. Many thanks Lucas [/quote] I totally agree about the GB74! I am a fan of active electronics, but I dislike the preamp in this bass and always play it in passive mode. I feel the pickups can be better, but I have gigged this bass a couple of times already and I have to say it's done very very well. My plan is to replace the pickups and remove the preamp. I already had a Seymour Duncan SMB4A for the bridge, which is a great pickup, and I have various Jazz pickups for the neck. Probably a Nordstrand NJ4SE. I was not going to spend that much cash on a pickup... but I had one of them die in my Jazz, and bought a replacement. Then, after mentioning this issue in TB, someone from Nordstrand contacted me and they say they will send me a replacement... I already bought the other one, so this could work really well in the GB74, making it an even better bass. I plan to remove the preamp, leaving a passive tone control and install a midsweep module from John East (which I already have). But I have to say it's a remarkable bass as it is... as long as you ignore the preamp. I bought it maybe a couple of months ago. I never had the chance to try one but seemed nice. Then one appeared locally, on gumtree, at a good price (£150), so I had to go and see it. It needed a bit of adjusting to get the action just right, but nothing else. New set of strings, and I did two gigs with it the week after. Mine is the natural one: as for the Wilkinson pickups, I just took a couple of pictures. The cream covers fit the pickups. If the buyer wants them, I'm happy to include them.
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[quote name='Darkstrike' timestamp='1347107454' post='1797003'] New guard idea looks much, much better. If it were me, and I was going the whole yards hot rodding it, I'd probably side mount the jack too, looks to be in a somewhat annoying spot. [/quote] I considered it, but I got used to front-mounted jacks after playing 2-band Stingrays/OLPs for a few years... and I kind of like it there now. I think the extended pickguard looks more "balanced".
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[quote name='Gust0o' timestamp='1347107199' post='1797000'] Why not run the new pickguard around the entirety of the bridge pick-up? Sorry, just musing out loud if you wanted to mask the imperfections with the routing. Might be tight on screw positions near the bridge, mind. [/quote] That was an idea, but it seemed too much black plastic on the face of the bass. In the end I like better just extending it towards the pickup until it touches it, and continuing the curve at the bottom. David, from ProBass emailed me saying he agrees that it's not a very nice job and he apologised he didn't check it before sending it. He'll get back to me on Monday to see if he has a better example to offer. But to be honest, the more I play it the less it bothers me. A pickguard would be cheap.
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[quote name='BassTractor' timestamp='1347105682' post='1796986'] Unbelievable what a slight change to a pg will do! Body looks bigger, scale larger and even the headstock seems to grow. [/quote]
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[quote name='tommorichards' timestamp='1347102957' post='1796952'] shucks! At least thats some good customer service. Are you still getting the new one you ordered? [/quote] I ordered one before Nordstrand offered... so yes, I got the one I ordered. That one is going this weekend into the 75RI Jazz, to bring it back to life. The other one will probably go in the Cort GB74. Its high output will probably go well with the MM style pickup at the bridge. Pickups everywhere!!!! aaaaahhhh!!!!
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Gotoh Jazz bass pickups ***SOLD***
mcnach replied to mcnach's topic in Accessories & Other Musically Related Items For Sale
I seem to have accumulated a bunch of pickups in my latter Jazz bass craziness, and I have more pickups than basses I can put them on I had them in my korean Squier Jazz for a while. The sound is very "classic Jazz" if you know what I mean. All good. I just found that I liked better for that bass the more aggressive SJB-2, and went with them instead. When you say they're familiar... I had them for sale before... but then withdrew. Or... did I get them from you? I exchanged them for some other pickups I had a while ago and I don't remember who it was. -
there is no "standard"... but if by that you meant "ceramic", yup, these are ceramic: two ceramic magnets, one on front and one behind the polepieces. That's nicer than a single magnet under the polepieces because it allows you to ground the polepieces easily with a strip of copper foil, for instance, if you want to. I don't have a model number for them. They were in a Vintage EJM96 bass. I'll post pictures later. edit: How are you liking your GB74? I got one not long ago and I'm quite chuffed with it
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[quote name='wishface' timestamp='1347108187' post='1797015'] every instruction or guide to stringing the bass has a completely different approach. The E and the A, which are the only strings that look rough (i took them off to clean the bass and boiled them and just put them back on, the problems with the E existed before that), never slipped. The G and D are wound correctly as far as i can tell. [/quote] There are only small variations to the same idea. Stringing a guitar serves one basic function and there really isn't that much to it. If a string slips, it is not anchored properly, or if it is, then it is wound in such a way that the turns are not tight and/or leave uneven tension... so that the string slowly readjusts itself resulting in some loss of tension until it's at rest. There are a couple of other minor details to ensure tuning is stable from the very minute you string them, but I don't want to confuse matters now.
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[quote name='wishface' timestamp='1347108049' post='1797012'] The screws were tight against the bridge to begin with. They were screwed in as far as they could go. Presumably that's intentional so that the screws don't jut out the back of the bridge. In order to move the saddle away from the bridge I had to unscrew those screws. That didn't move the saddle at all, it just moved the screw. So i had to push the saddle back with my finger and then, holding it in place, re tighten the screw so that it was against the bridge again. That way it can't slip. [/quote] and that's exactly what I said. in that direction (away from bridge = towards the neck) you often have to push the saddle (or the screw, rather) with your finger. In the opposite direction you don't (there's nowhere the screw could go). The screw head acts as a stop against the bridge stop. The screws do NOT thread through the bridge stop at all. They only thread through the saddles. The hole through wich the screws pass, at the bridge stop, are slightly larger than the screw's diameter, and smaller than the screw head. It's a rather simple mechanism. Look at it. I really don't get what the misunderstanding here is
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Ah, forget it! I'm keeping it!!! I actually like it better with my proposed new pickguard (if I get it done one day) This is the stock pickguard: and this is what it would look like if I do a new plate:
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[quote name='wishface' timestamp='1347092826' post='1796828'] Thanks. I was under the impression that the break angle off the nut has to be as little as possible and that each successive string wind goes under the last so the string comes off the neck with as little bend or angle as possible into the tuning peg. the gapp between the 12th fret and the E, with the 1st and 24th fretted is about 1mm at most. [/quote] The angle in an horizontal plane will normally be small. It's non-existent on Fender type headstocks (4-in-line style). The angle in the vertical plane will be smaller (sharper) the lower a string is when it exits the tuning post towards the nut. If it approaches the nut with no angle, in a straight line, the string may rattle in the nut slot. Not nice. If the string comes from below, a sharper bend ensures the string is held against the slot and will not rattle. This is the reason why string trees/retainers are used on Fender style headstocks for the D/G strings, as it becomes harder to have a good angle when the tuning posts are away from the nut. Your measurements for the relief look good, by the way.
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[quote name='wishface' timestamp='1347089783' post='1796788'] It doesn't though, that's what I'm saying. When I wanted to move teh saddle turning the screw just wound it through the saddle and out the back of the bridge. I had to then push the saddle with my fingers to get it to move back toward the bridge. Turning the screw just had it move and not the saddle. [/quote] Look it's *impossible* for the screw to thread into the saddle without it moving back, away from the neck So if it does that, it means the screw was not flush against the bridge stop to start with. It's not that common but it can happen than as you change the strings a saddle is pushed back a little and the attached screw may protrude just a bit, but enough to cause the effect you describe. However, that's not the normal operation of this very simple system. Make sure the four screws that thread through the saddles, front to back, one per saddle, are all flush against the bridge stop. If it's resting against the bridge stop, as it should and as shown in 'evildead's images, as you turn the screw clockwise, the screw cannot go anywhere, and the saddle is moved away from the bridge as the screw threads into it. This can be quite hard to do unless you relieve some tension first by detuning that string a little first. When you turn it anticlockwise, however, the head of the screw may move away from the bridge stop, as the saddle may offer some resistance. That's why in this case you push the screw so that it again rests against the bridge stop, moving the saddle with it in the process.
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[quote name='tommorichards' timestamp='1347067128' post='1796747'] ill take a stab at rewinding it if you're up for it. Ive started on my dead dimarzio copy. Wire keeps snapping (ie, its snapped once and i've gotten annoyed at it), but i think it could work. [/quote] ah, when Nordstrand said they'd send me a new one, I offered to send the dead one to them and said "yes, please"... so it's on its way to them already.
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That was a steal!!! I owned one of these... loud, very loud beast with a lovely clean sound... the crunch and heavy overdrive tones weren't bad either. Heavy beast 'though. Great amps! -
Nice guitars, these. I used to have one. Bump.
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well, Nordstrand also thought it was strange... so they're sending me a replacement. Good guys!
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two neck Jazz bass pickups... ceramic, quite powerful. £12 for both, delivered (they were actually bridge & neck pickups in a Korean Squier that had both pickups the same size...)
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nice alnico Jazz bass pickups. black covers. Looking for £35 delivered, for the pair
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I have a pair of Jazz bass pickups made by Wilkinson. They have the original black covers with the Wilkinson logo, and I also have a set of cream covers that you can have if you want to. Looking for £12 delivered.
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[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1347053960' post='1796634'] +1 (well not the talking to me first bit, Jose would kill me!) [/quote] I would not kill you for something like this... but I'd look at you very very very sternly, I guarantee that!
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Well, the intonation is pretty much spot on, so the saddle movement theory goes out of the window. I have just spent some time playing it... I think I like this bridge pickup a lot, actually. Right now I'm leaning towards keeping it.. aaaah! indecision!!! If the gap really bothered me down the line, I could easily get another pickguard made with a slightly different shape that would cover the gap... and if I keep it I could start "making it really mine" this weekend... applying oil to the neck, maybe installing the preamp and putting a nice SJB-2 neck pickup in there... hmmm... I'll have to sleep on it.
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I just measured the distance from the 12th fret to the top of the bridge (MM type) pickup. It is nearly 1cm nearer the neck on the Retrovibe than on the Stingray & SUB basses! It is not much, but that's another reason why it sounds different from the Stingray.
