mcnach

[quote name='goonieman' timestamp='1439934689' post='2846981'] Hi all, I've been considering the USA SUB series... but prefer slimmer jazz style width and profile. Can anyone tell me the specs on the made in USA sub neck please? [been googling for a while and finding conflicting data] Thanks [/quote] The USA EBMM SUB is not slim like a Jazz. It's the same as a Stingray of the same period (2003-2006), which means wide, and on the whole not too different from a Precision. I'll measure it when I get home if you don't get an answer but I imagine it'll be around 42mm wide. The only SUB that is thinner is the "Sterling by MusicMan" SUB, which is a very different animal (and not USA made), or the EBMM Sterling SUB (USA, again from 2003-2006 period), which is pretty rare. But they exist! I know a guy in Edinburgh who has one. edit: 44mm??? Are you sure? That's Classic 50 Precision territory -which I love- but the Stingray and SUB I have are a *little* narrower.

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1439933414' post='2846965'] Glad I didn't buy one then! I wonder if I could make my bit of foam a bit more user-friendly by attaching it to a stiff backing with felt underneath, so it's a bit quicker to slide into place. [/quote] That looks like a much better option. Or those little things that look like a pillow... no hard backing but the foam is hard enough and it's easy to slide under the strings.

For simplicity: Audacity. But Reaper is also pretty simple for most basic operations, and it allows you to do much more... It just looks a bit more scary at first but the basic operations are just as easy as in Audacity... so I vote for Reaper

[quote name='LayDownThaFunk' timestamp='1439851515' post='2846316'] But why sell it? That spec is really good. [/quote] well, it seems he wants a 4-string Precision or a Stingray... There are a lot of reasons people sell their basses, amps, pedals etc here. Being crap is not usually one of them. GAS is a fickle animal

[quote name='miles'tone' timestamp='1439720166' post='2845163'] I'm sure they are fantastic basses, but I feel that us basschatters do seem to stir up a frenzy in each other about new and exciting brands that pop up. See also the Sire threads for instance. I'm sure that once the excitement about acquiring the new must have has subsided, a few folks think - don't need it after all, now I need.. This, instead!! ... I think it's just the thrill and cycle of gas taking place and not any "catch" regarding Limelights in particular. (I still "need" a Limelight P that looks like Discreet's old Limelight J, and this coming from someone who only plays 5ers.. I rest my case!) [/quote] I'm sure there's a bit of that too!!! That's probably what pushed me towards TKS and Maruszczyk, for instance (two brands I doubt I'd know about if it weren't for BC!). That's not to say it was a mistake. The TKS cabs are very cool even if I'm not in love with them 100%. But the Maruszczyk is just fantastic. I was tempted by Limelight too, but I prefer to do my own careless relicing accompanied with suitable swearwords

and only 5 weeks? even better!

Sorry if I'm missing something.., You say it did not cut out, but it came close to cutting out. How do you know? Or did I misunderstood?

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1439648696' post='2844665'] If he doesn't do non-relics, I strongly recommend you chat to Adrian at Maruszczyk... [/quote] +1 Maruszczyk also do some kind of relic ones, from what I've seen... although I have to say they don't look as "real" as the Limelights. On the plus side, the saddles and other functional parts still work

[quote name='Naetharu' timestamp='1439633962' post='2844530'] Anyhow, Just to make a final post everything is sorted for me. The bass is being returned and I have a beautiful new one on order. All smooth as can be and very happy. Cheers for your help folks [/quote] Cool! So... what's the new one going to be like?

Nice! That's a LOT of bass for £380! I also have a white one, earlier than yours (yours looks like a 2005-2006, because of the compensated nut). I love it, fantastic bass. It has *nothing* to feel shy about next to a "real" Stingray, which I also own. I put a black scratchplate on mine. The pickup routing is clean on these basses, so they look great without one too!

Have you considered the GB Shuttle 9.2, if you really want to change amps? I found it closer to the LMIII than the LMT800 was (although it's a different animal), and I do feel I get a bit more "oomph" from that than the LMIII.

[quote name='Greg.Bassman' timestamp='1439330361' post='2842035'] Not a silly question at all lol. I wish. Due to show and transportation purposes, I'm afraid I'm reduced to a 410. Generally, it's very good; in a rehearsal room, it's a total gem- on a full stage with 8 other muso's though, and it starts to feel the strain I'm currently pushing the gain to 11 o'clock and setting the master around 12 o'clock; which I hate doing as (anything past 12 o'clock) it starts to clip. My thinking is, with the LM800, I hoping that I won't have to have the knobs so high to achieve my current volume- and at least (if needs be) I have the option to turn up further. Thoughts everyone? [/quote] I had both an LMIII and an LMT800 (the "tube" version, although whatever that did is questionable). They sound different. I liked both, but preferred the LMIII. The LMT800 has a bit more... "girth", but I can't say I noticed it being significantly louder than the LMIII, if at all. So, if your objective is simply more volume, the LM(T)800 may not be your best bet. I ended up selling the LMIII and LMT800 but keeping the CMD121P combo (LMIII head in small combo shape). I use that as stage monitor, somettimes with a small expension cab (various... I had Schroeder mini10R for a small rig version, TKS 1126 or BF BB2 or Compact for a slightly bigger one. I love the extra cab option (TKS or BF), because it's still portable and loud and good sounding. I used my LMIII with two cabs together: a single 15 (BF Compact) and a single 12 (BF BB2), and I can't imagine your 410 would be more efficient than that combination, plus you can very easily carry the two speakers, one in each hand. Not saying that you should get those exact cabs, but maybe a couple of efficient light single speaker cabs could work out better in the end. Regardless... LM800 purely for more volume is likely to disappoint, in my opinion.

[quote name='elephantgrey' timestamp='1439579895' post='2844210'] how about putting the muff in a looper pedal with a clean blend (or a crossover) so that you get both your clean sound with all its low end, and your distorted sound blended together. I would suggest then going into a preamp so that it sounds more like one tone. [/quote] +1 That's been my solution for that kind of issue over the years. I used a Boss LS-2 for that.

I use mine at the end, the idea -for me- is to limit the extreme bottom end from ever reaching the amp, so that's the place for me.

[quote name='TheButler' timestamp='1439566091' post='2844036'] So why make a thread about it? If I made a thread about every time I have returned something this place would read more like Money Saving Expert. [/quote] When you receive a bass you've been excited about, and it is not how you expected it to be (whether your expectations are reasonable or not), it's normal to feel quite disappointed. Basschat is only a few clicks away, so we pour our thoughts/experiences onto it. I don't think it's that unusual. The OP was asking for our collective opinion, as many do every day about other things. I don't think it's fair to pick on him I'm glad the issue seems to have a happy ending. I cannot say I know the seller that well, I only exchanged a bunch of emails with him, but for what it's worth, he comes across as a very genuine guy. He's been very good with me during the order I placed for a bass a few months ago, and the bass was just exactly what I ordered. I was so happy, that I have placed another order, this time specifying a greater deal of details. I'm happy to hear that he continues to try to make his customers happy, whatever the issue.

Can you post some pictures? Just out of curiosity now, and because I love those basses! (although I should not put myself in a position to be tempted )

[quote name='VTypeV4' timestamp='1439513187' post='2843552'] Not quite, sorry. The people that have used this amp (according to this thread at least) actually like the amp whether it's rated for 20w or 20Mw.. [/quote] and that's the interesting conclusion so far. That is more valuable to me, as an indication whether I'd like to try it or not, than someone throwing a hissy fit about how numbers are reported and/or leaving the room "I'll never buy from you, oh you horrible horrible people!" I have owned some Behringer gear over the years too, and I personally never ever had an issue at all regarding their performance or longevity. IN fact, the first amp head to die on me was a TC RH450... heh. Yes, I can't wait for the day when there is a standard that actually means something... but until then... take the numbers with a pinch of salt and pay attention to the reviews. Then, if still attractive, go and try one in person.

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1439490274' post='2843372'] I think I`d be a little fed up that the condition wasn`t as described, but this make me think hold on to it: "The bass plays like a dream, its well balanced on the strap and it sounds great. It utterly blows away anything else I have played" Sure contact the seller, see if they are willing to offer a discount due to the condition being somewhat different to as described, but flip the situation the other way, pristine condition, doesn`t balance, and feels/sounds sterile and lacking in character. A great playing and sounding bass in tatty nick is worth far more in my view than a pristine instrument that doesn`t play, sound or balance well. [/quote] This. All of it. For a bass that I could describe as the OP did, I could tolerate a lot of cosmetic damage. Of course, I haven't seen any pictures... but from the description I'd say I would lean towards keeping it. Maybe try to get some £ back if the bass was substantially not as described... but from the OP's description it doesn't sound like a bass I'd let go easily. A body refinish could be a lot less costly than the OP thinks too... if he could really not live with it but wanted the bass. And it would not be an emergency, so one could wait until funds are just right for that.

[quote name='Kejsi3' timestamp='1439465572' post='2843047'] I had mexican fender many years ago - it was not what I wanted. [/quote] I know what you mean, but the newer ones are a lot better. The "Classic" range is very good. Not just "for the price". My Classic 50 Precision (see avatar) is excellent in every way. Worth checking out, you might be pleasantly surprised.

excited, hopeful and nervous all at once! thank you for so many ideas!

[quote name='bigjohn' timestamp='1439381793' post='2842299'] I've done it before on a headstock with a string tree that sheared the screw flat. I used a very small drill bit around the screw, just enough to get some needle nose pliers in and grip the screw. I then drilled the mess out and filled it with hardwood dowling. It's easy enough, [b]you just have to be patient.[/b] [/quote] hmmm, we may have a problem then. Do they sell patience on ebay?

[quote name='Big_Stu' timestamp='1439380006' post='2842275'] Very much so, I was told by a luthier that such a thing is a referred method, especially if you have sawdust off the exact same wood area you're filling. I think it was EvoStik wood glue in the green bottle that claims to be harder than the wood it sticks. The trick is to make it as thick a mix as you can & the bits as fine as possible. In the past I've achieved this by using a hacksaw and/or a file to make the dust. Alternatively you could plug most of the hole with an epoxy glue, that woudl take the new screw and put a veneer of the wood-glue filler on top of it. [/quote] Good to know! No need for a veneer, the hole is inside the pickup cavity and it would not be visible. Options, options... The one about cutting a chunk around it and inserting a dowel seems neat, but this one (cutting away wood carefully ro remove screw, then fill) looks less prone to accidents by someone like me who has a history of getting a little carried away with drills

[quote name='Green Alsatian' timestamp='1439379502' post='2842266'] I had a similar issue with a bass a couple of years ago so I bought a hollow drill bit like this: [url="http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/hollowscrewextractor516.aspx"]http://www.highlandw...tractor516.aspx[/url] I drilled deep enough to catch the section of screw that had embedded to avoid breaching the back and then wiggled the wood containing the screw out with needle-nose pliers. I then glued in some dowel and drilled the pilot hole. [/quote] That's probably the neatest way to do it... if I'm careful... nice!

A few different a good ideas, thank you all! It's looking doable

[quote name='r16ktx' timestamp='1439369141' post='2842151'] Something like this? Irwin-Industrial-Spiral-Extractor [/quote] It's a very narrow screw for this to work on, I'm afraid, but thanks!