Delberthot Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 (edited) I am looking to epoxy a rosewood neck that I am in the process of converting to fretless. I know how its done, what tools to use but a quick look around B&Q reveals hee haw and i don't exactly live in a large boating community to ask anyone What kind of place is likely to sell it in the relatively small quantity that I am going to need? i thank you Edited June 1, 2010 by Delberthot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bass Doc Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 Your local model shop should stock a two-pack Ripmax product used as dope (not that kind). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RhysP Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 (edited) How about searching online for Ships Chandlers? I'm sure there must be some that sell what you need & do mail order. A quick Google found this: [url="http://marinestore.co.uk/west-epoxy-packs.html"]http://marinestore.co.uk/west-epoxy-packs.html[/url] Edited June 1, 2010 by RhysP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malbass Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 Try looking on eBay for surfboard repair kits - usually contain just the right amount of epoxy for the job you have in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henry norton Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 West System is what I usually use. You can get it from [url="http://www.axminster.co.uk/"]Axminster power tool centre[/url] without having to pay stupid postage rates. Most boat/laminating epoxy will do a decent job - just don't go and use 5 minute Araldite!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delberthot Posted June 2, 2010 Author Share Posted June 2, 2010 Thanks for the replies so far. Its given me a lot to think about. Since the bass was relatively inexpensive, I'm looking to do this as cheaply as possible to may well got for the surfboard repair pack as it seems the cheapest, just need to make sure it contains enough. The only thing I've bought so far is a radius sanding block as I already had all the sandpaper and stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henry norton Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 (edited) [quote name='Delberthot' post='855471' date='Jun 2 2010, 11:09 PM']Thanks for the replies so far. Its given me a lot to think about. Since the bass was relatively inexpensive, I'm looking to do this as cheaply as possible to may well got for the surfboard repair pack as it seems the cheapest, just need to make sure it contains enough. The only thing I've bought so far is a radius sanding block as I already had all the sandpaper and stuff.[/quote] Are you going for a number of thin coats or casting a thick slab on the board and sanding it back? Edited June 4, 2010 by henry norton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delberthot Posted June 4, 2010 Author Share Posted June 4, 2010 Everything I've read so far points to applying several thin coats. I'm not sure if I could get a thick coat on very accurately Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robocorpse Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 Can you still buy "Rustins Plastic Coating"? that stuff is great for 2 pack clear coat loveliness, although some b4stard in the EU has probably tried to ban it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartelby Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 (edited) [quote name='robocorpse' post='858242' date='Jun 5 2010, 03:16 PM']Can you still buy "Rustins Plastic Coating"? that stuff is great for 2 pack clear coat loveliness, although some b4stard in the EU has probably tried to ban it...[/quote] Yep [url="http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Rustins-Rustins-Plastic-Coating-23018.htm"]Still available[/url] Edited June 5, 2010 by bartelby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 (edited) rustins plaastic coating is urea-formaldehyde-based 2-part resin, aqueous-based so you can wash brushes out easier. Its good stuff but not quite as hard as epoxy. I've used it to finish off a couple of guitar bodies. you can get a really good gloss surface in the right hands. Edited June 5, 2010 by Al Heeley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henry norton Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 [quote name='Delberthot' post='857550' date='Jun 4 2010, 07:40 PM']Everything I've read so far points to applying several thin coats. I'm not sure if I could get a thick coat on very accurately[/quote] It works either way - Jaco Pastorius (can we ever discuss epoxy coated fretless without his name coming up?) started with the several coats method but finally settled on the one thick cast coating - presumably when he could afford to pay someone to do it for him... Either way works well, you'll only need a couple of hundred grammes all told so I'd get something decent. Just beware, like allot of electric guitar design, there's still allot of unknowns and -as always - even more people who'll tell you exactly what to do even though they've never tried it themselves. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delberthot Posted June 5, 2010 Author Share Posted June 5, 2010 Thanks. I'm doing this at my own pace so I've plenty of time I;ve taken the frets out and filled them. Once my radius sanding block arrives I'm going to sand it smooth and use the Liberon ebony wood dye I've had lying around for ages for such a project. Once its as dark as I want it I've got burnishing cream to clean up the board and make the front dots visible again. I'm not sure what the stage is after that before I put the epoxy on - lemon oil, denatured alcohol? I'll need to have another rake about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 don't treat the 'board with lemon oil before epoxying - it can prevent penetration and adhesion. Sopme of the many chemicals referred to and sold as lemon oil contain alkyd resins and oils which will hinder the epoxy. Dent alcohol or white spirit as a degreaser would be great, then let it all evaporate before epoxying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henry norton Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 (edited) +1 on not using lemon oil! Smooth it, darken it, degrease it then epoxy it! You don't have to go through all the grades of sandpaper - you don't really need to go above 180 grit before coating the board with epoxy. Edited June 7, 2010 by henry norton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colledge Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 seeing as your looking for the cheapest route... have you thought about ca (superglue) coating the neck? i used it to coat the 3 part maple/sapele/maple fretless board on my a-level product design bass and i was impressed at how hard it is. so far theres no damage from roundwounds and very little work got it up to glassy finish. it was really easy to apply... i think ive lost a few brain cells and smell receptors from the fumes from doing it in my bedroom though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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