Knackered truss rod and fingerboard removal HELP PLEASE

[Andyjr1515]

16 minutes ago, BigRedX said:

How easy was it to get the fingerboard back on properly aligned with the sides of the neck?

I might have to post some more photos.   I had to line up the two halves of the side dot drill holes which were positioned on the join as well as everything else...  

[Owen]

26 minutes ago, BigRedX said:

How easy was it to get the fingerboard back on properly aligned with the sides of the neck?

Everything is easy for Andy. The rest of us, not so much. 

[Andyjr1515]

The challenge was lining up accurately enough for the original side dot holes to line up.  That said, at least it would then be in exactly the right position!

 

 

Held together, this was would be I was aiming for if at all possible:

 

Dry, I used some spool clamps to hold the side to side position.  I then drilled a couple of micro holes in the nut slot through to the neck and tapped in a couple of thin panel pins.  Same at the back - I lifted a fret and put a couple in there too.

 

 

 

At the back of the neck, I stuck a strip of hardwood along the neck spine temporarily with two-sided tape to use as a clamping caul:

 

 

 

I pulled the fretboard off to apply the glue, then could use the projecting panel pins to relocate and prevent the board floating around under clamping.  I used a series of radius blocks before putting around a dozen clamps to squeeze all of the glue out and get a closed joint on both sides all the way up the neck.  Here is the first clamp - 11 more to go:

  

 

And here it was glued, waiting for some replacement side dots (which come as a thin cylindrical stick) to be fitted:

 

 

And re-oiled ready to return to @Owen

 

[3below]

The truss rod (actually the wood it works on) on my G&L L1505 failed resulting in fretboard lift and breakage. Jon Shuker repaired it, the new board is many times better than the original.  My takeaway is that even if you fail to get the fretboard off intact all is not lost. A new board can be fitted.  You have nothing to lose at this stage.

[3below]

Just checked the starting post - fretless (my short term memory is a slight casualty of a recent event).  Being fretless there is even more reason to go ahead.  If the board breaks get an ebony board fitted as a bonus.

[police squad]

7 hours ago, 3below said:

Just checked the starting post - fretless (my short term memory is a slight casualty of a recent event).  Being fretless there is even more reason to go ahead.  If the board breaks get an ebony board fitted as a bonus.

I have thought this too

[Andyjr1515]

Fretless is exactly the same process.  Depending on the thickness, it tends to be a bit slower as there are no frets to speed up the transfer of heat to the glue joint but probably less risk of breaking.