SD Curlee Hondo II

[bloke_zero]

On 06/11/2025 at 13:17, Bassassin said:

I think what we can't be clear about with this bass, is whether this is a problem that's developed over the years, or whether it's always been like this. This is a Korean-made bass from the late 70s, a time when factories like Samick (who made this) & Cort were upping their games but still not achieving the QC of the more established manufacturers. I've had a few Korean-made through-neck basses from this era which had unadjustably high actions simply because they came out of the factory that way, rather than deterioration. Here's a Samick-made Satellite I had, which some previous owner's corrected by routing the bridge about 5mm into the body:

 

 

I think before suggesting any remedial action with the SD Curlee, I'd need to know whether we're correcting an age-related problem, or a manufacturing flaw. I wouldn't be surprised if it was the former.

 

 

I'm watching an auction where someone has done this on a SD curlee but in such as a way as 'dogs breakfast' makes it sound better than it is:

https://reverb.com/uk/item/86586914-sd-curlee-design-series-bass-mid-70-s-standard

[Bassassin]

1 hour ago, bloke_zero said:

I'm watching an auction where someone has done this on a SD curlee but in such as a way as 'dogs breakfast' makes it sound better than it is:

https://reverb.com/uk/item/86586914-sd-curlee-design-series-bass-mid-70-s-standard

 

The seller doesn't point out that this absolutely catastrophic bodgefest is a Hondo with the logo removed, not an original US-made Curlee. They maybe don't know - but now you do. 👍

 

18 hours ago, prowla said:

I thought it had already been figured out that shimming wasn’t going to do anything, because the neck and bridge both sit on the same plank of wood; it’s a bit like a dog chasing its tail.

 

I know - just me being a dork! 

[Andyjr1515]

As there has been so much confusion, I've done four drawings of the options discussed so far...but just found out about Imgur stopping working in the UK.  My whole Basschat portfolio of photos were on Imgur!   

 

No matter about that - anyone know/remember how to post an image (small jpeg) nowadays?

 

[Andyjr1515]

7 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

As there has been so much confusion, I've done four drawings of the options discussed so far...but just found out about Imgur stopping working in the UK.  My whole Basschat portfolio of photos were on Imgur!   

 

No matter about that - anyone know/remember how to post an image (small jpeg) nowadays?

 

I think I found it.  I was over my image allocation on the forum here.  I've cleared some so can now attach the new ones

[Andyjr1515]

So, the various options we have discussed.

 

Option 1 

 

This is where a single, long, wedge-shaped shim - or a series of progressively thicker shims - lift the whole neck to the bridge position.  In order for the bridge to drop and result in the lower action, the protruding wedge of neck needs to be flattened back down to the level of the body top

 

 

Option 2

 

This is where the extended neck is cut into two, cutting through just after the fretboard ends.  Then, with the addition of a couple more neck fixing screws (that can be hidden under the existing back plate), the shim or shims only need to be under the heel of the neck and the pickup chambers and bridge are unaffected

 

 

Option 3

 

Similar to option 2, with the neck being cut to avoid having to disturb the bridge, but this time the cut is made at the pickup chambers.  There may need to be some more wood removed in front of the pickups, but probably not

 

 

Option 4

 

This is where there are no shims involved, but the bridge area is routed so the bridge can be sunk into the top, lowering the action.  The disadvantage with this one is that the strings may then start fouling either the bass top near the bridge or, more likely, the pickups.

 

Hope this helps clarify.