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Positioning a precision bridge


lidl e
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So I'm building a fender. The body i bought has the channel for the ground wire to the bridge, but it doesn't have guide holes for the five bridge screws.

 

Anyone have a template or measurements of where to position bridge? 

 

Since i got a solderless loom, the bridge position is the one thing i am worried about. 

 

Should i just pay someone to do it? Is that ridiculous? I'm already gonna have to pay my luthier to slot the nut. 

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I will need to check but for a BBOT style bridge, i think the measure is 35" from fretboard side of nut to saddle side of bridge string retainer.... (EDIT: Bridge Mounting Hole Centers)

 

Get some elastic to check string run and neck / bridge alignment... my Jazz bitsa needed the neck pocket adjusting.PolePieces.thumb.jpg.c7b7328e852fdcf79e9e9261095ef8cc.jpg

Edited by PaulThePlug
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What bass is that? That's not the sdgr. 

 

Im not sure ive ever seen a biased P pickup.

 

"Saddle side of bridge string retainer" 

Do you mean the top edge of the bridge? Or top edge of where the strings run through the bridge?

 

The bridge i have is (new) old school bent metal.

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5 minutes ago, lidl e said:

....That's not the sdgr. 

Im not sure ive ever seen a biased P pickup...

🙂 My J Bitsa Special...

 

From a Quick Search and Looking back...

 

35" from fretboard side of nut to mounting hole centers on a BBOT bridge...

This should give the 34" on the G saddle with enough for the rest to be further back.

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10 minutes ago, PaulThePlug said:

🙂 My J Bitsa Special...

 

From a Quick Search and Looking back...

 

35" from fretboard side of nut to mounting hole centers on a BBOT bridge...

This should give the 34" on the G saddle with enough for the rest to be further back.

That bass looks great! 

 

I understand BBOT is the old school style bridge, but im nit geting the acronym. What does it stand for? Bent something?

 

So, 35" exactly from fretboard side of nut to center of bridge mounting holes? 

 

Id say even i could measure that and get it right! 

 

 

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1 minute ago, PaulThePlug said:

Bent Bit Of Tin...

Let me measure and take some pics in the morning... my Blah Blah says String Retainer, but a Google Search says Screw Holes...

Center line, and neck in pocket, with 'elastic' strings first...

cheers. i really appreciate it even though in the end i'll probably be too nervous to do it myself. 

 

i could do with saving the money of paying someone though.

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You should be well able to do it yourself if you can bolt the rest together DIY! 

I've done this by measurements, the basic working length of string you can take right from the fb edge of nut to where the strings break over the saddles, or you can halve it and measure from crown of fret 12. As long as you've got some adjustment movement room for intonation on the saddles you're good (you're more likely to need to shift the saddles back rather than forward btw) 

There's likely YouTube vid demonstrations of all this I'd think just for clarity. 

ps, you'll need to ensure the bridge lines up with the neck, as mentioned by Paul above. 

Edited by Waddo Soqable
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35" to Fretboard side of Nut to Mounting Screws - or slightly more say an extra 1/16" - 1/8" to ensure E intonation - checked a few and a couple are close to the bridge limit for the E.

Especially with a Std bridge, no issue overhanging the body, as with a chunky high mass jobbie, plus extra distance from string retainer to saddle should reduce the chances of any string silk resting on the string to saddle witness, contact point.

 

My P Bitsa Body came with bridge pilot holes

PBits.thumb.jpg.af1ac0f3e2ab7c4cf45e43b86d31d092.jpg

Aria J

AriaJ.thumb.jpg.9b87a8fbf02682dbd07c09224f5bfa7f.jpg

Ibby GSR200

IbbyGSR.thumb.jpg.32435e50420c4f9e9a1a8e7cbd3b10d5.jpg

Ibby SR300

IbbySR.thumb.jpg.9f39e3d3ef4bd9e917ef1dcfbf61ed24.jpg

Edited by PaulThePlug
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Remember...

Ensure pilot holes are the right size, not too tight... and deep enough for the Screws... particularly for the machine heads. If not wide or deep enough, they will not cut wider or deeper, you will just round of the head... and screws only need nipping up.

 

Bar of Soap or Candle Wax to lube the thread, sandwich bag plastic between screw driver tip and screw to protect the finish... (I also do this with sockets and bolts when working on the bike.)

Edited by PaulThePlug
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Paul has already admirably covered everything nicely. All I would add from my own experience is that the critical measurement (for a standard long-scale bass) is that the breakpoint of the G string saddle should be 34” from the front edge of the nut. It’s not likely that you’ll need to adjust the G saddle much if you get that measurement right so maybe just have the saddle a few mil short of the furthest forward position which leaves plenty of adjustment backwards for the E,A,D strings.

 

In my case the pre-drilled hole for the ground wire was further forward than I would have liked so it was a fine balance between getting the saddle in the right place (34”) whilst allowing the bridge plate to cover the ground hole.

 

A combination of of correct scale length, with the bridge properly centred at 90 degrees to the centre line should get you there. My body didn’t have pre-drilled bridge holes either so it was a case of measuring many times before committing to drilling the holes. 

 

E0E67F1B-2E8A-47E5-B1F3-9FC35814A12C.jpeg

C7BF8FD3-9F66-47E1-86BF-0B26C1558B9F.jpeg

Edited by Velarian
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2 hours ago, PaulThePlug said:

@lidl e so... neck in pocket pics, elastic strings run... or have ya measured and drilled already?

I havent! 

 

I want to discuss with my luthier and see how much what i want him to do is gonna cost.

 

I'll do a cost benefit analysis of whether it is worth it for me to do bits or just have him do it. I know i can definitely do it, but will i always be questioning whther i did it right. 

 

This fella is fenders certified repair person in dublin,so i think if im having him set it up anyway, if it isnt too much more i might have him put it together.

 

Ive out together basses before so im not looking st this as a project, but hoping this will be a high end main bass and i trust someone else to do it moee than myself to get it perfect.

 

But if he comes back with a ridicuulous price, i will do it myself.

 

Can bridge holes be done after painting? Of course i assume, but easier to do before?

 

 

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