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Plans for first scratch build


Jimothey
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I’ve finished my plans for my first scratch build it’s kinda based on a Warwick Dolphin (it’s not fretless I just didn’t put the frets on)

The plan is:

Ash body with a walnut burr veneered top 

Bolt on Walnut neck with Ebony fretboard and matching walnut burr headstock (headstock shape will probably change)

5 string

34” scale 

2 Jazz bass pickups (or maybe MM haven’t fully decided yet)

Gold hardware and fret wire

Thru body stringing (sorry Jabba_the_gut but I really like the way you’ve done your thru body stringing with the tun-o-matic bridge so I’ve borrowed the idea)

All it leaves now is to go rob a bank to pay for it then I’ll be able to get started O.o

 

Edited by Jimothey
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This is going to be a long build as I can get the bits as and when I can afford them hopefully I should get it done by this time next year 

Slight change of plan I’m going to do individual saddles instead of tunomatic bridge (as I can’t find a 5 string version anywhere) so I’m going to need some advice when I get to that stage

Ive got two other kit builds to finish first then I can focus properly on this one

Edited by Jimothey
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I can see how the shape is evolving - in fact when we designed the Psilos bass we probably amended it 5-6 times. I like the way lines flow into others so that your eye naturally follows one line into another. I've used Paint 3D to make some minor adjustments to your design which I think enhance what you've already done. You'll note how the line from the bottom of the top horn flows into the the bottom of the body and how the top of the lower horn flows into the top of the body.

bass.jpg

 

Hope you think it's an improvement.

Edited by TheGreek
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16 minutes ago, TheGreek said:

I can see how the shape is evolving - in fact when we designed the Psilos bass we probably amended it 5-6 times. I like the way lines flow into others so that your eye naturally follows one line into another. I've used Paint 3D to make some minor adjustments to you design which I think enhance what you've already done. You'll note how the line from the bottom of the top horn flows into the the bottom of the body and how the top of the lower horn flows into the top of the body.

bass.jpg

Thanks I’m always open to advice that’s kinda what I was trying to do, the extra lines that you can see on the top and bottom edges is where I’m going to sand down the veneer more so it shows the contrast of the light and dark woods

No doubt it will probably change a bit more when I come to actually cutting and contouring the body but I think it’s a good starting point 

I’ve had an idea but I’m not sure if it will work/look ok? but because I’m going to do a bolt on neck, on the back where the neck comes out of the pocket make the neck thicker there so I can contour it to the depth and shape of the body so it will kinda look like a neck thru or just do away with the bolt on and just do a neck thru which may/will probably be easier in the end?

Edited by Jimothey
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If you're thinking bolt on, then mark on your drawing where the neck screws will go to make sure you have enough neck. On you're current design you would probably need to extend the neck down to the neck pickup. I'd also look at where the neck is; it might look better if the mid line of the neck was in line with the point where the two curves Mick has drawn intersect (if that makes sense!).

Cheers

Jez

 

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11 minutes ago, Jabba_the_gut said:

If you're thinking bolt on, then mark on your drawing where the neck screws will go to make sure you have enough neck. On you're current design you would probably need to extend the neck down to the neck pickup. I'd also look at where the neck is; it might look better if the mid line of the neck was in line with the point where the two curves Mick has drawn intersect (if that makes sense!).

Cheers

Jez

 

I’m swaying more towards thru neck now because I really like the contoured look where the neck meets the body

But your right the neck pocket does need to be made longer and move down as it’s a bit too bottom heavy at the mo

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I’ve altered the position for the neck and highlighted where the neck pocket will be I think this looks better 

 

Im still thinking that the end of the fretboard needs to be slightly less of an angle so it follows the lines of the body better

Edited by Jimothey
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If you are tight on space for a normal neck pocket you could extend the pocket all the way to the neck pickup. This would give you more to p!ay with in terms of the shaping of the neck body join and also make it an easier to cut/route. You then could shape the end of the fretboard in any way you like as it wouldn't be determining the size of the pocket. Hope this makes sense!!

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