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Doodle-bass


neepheid
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Yeah, it's not the Celebrations pattern, it's more the size of the tin. To me it looks like the world's longest-scale banjo, which is cool and funny when it was just a lash up for a giggle, but now you've clearly made an effort....

On the other hand, you now have this long, detachable neck, so you'll get years of good value entertainment, bolting it onto all sorts of weird stuff just to see how it resonates.

:)

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Well, now I've had a taste of the way great inventors must feel (40 attempts to invent WD-40, for example). I had a go at stringing up. There are problems.

1) The neck exits the top of the tin too far down (we're taking like 3/16", but it would make a big difference) from the lip, resulting in a rather high action
2) The bridge is therefore not tall enough to give a reasonable break angle over the "saddle"
3) I tried to anchor the strings to a couple of partially screwed in screws into the tin/bottom of the neck and I can't knot even the thinnest of my strings, it's bloody tough stuff
4) Tried to make a loop by doubling back the string on itself and melting it together. That didn't work, it didn't stick together and eventually the string just burned through. Tried making the loop by taping it with insulating tape - one pinged out overnight. Next idea would be tape + superglue. Or maybe epoxy.

So, it looks like you might get your wish of ditching the Celebrations tin quicker than I expected. Tin #2 is a rather fetching pink old skool Quality Street tin.

Oh, and I siliconed down my soundboard too, so I might need to make a new one of those too if it doesn't come away cleanly (my F-holes, sob).

I think string anchoring will be my own personal WD-40. I'm hatching plans to make some kind of tailpiece. I'm also thinking of ditching the tin altogether and making it into an EUB. Got quite p'd off last night, but the old advice to "sleep on it" has made me feel a little better and got some perspective on the situation.

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[quote name='Ou7shined' post='227262' date='Jun 26 2008, 12:12 PM']Sounds like you had a rough one mate.

What kind of strings are you unsing?[/quote]

Stihl mowing line of various thicknesses (.065", .080", .095" and .105"). It isn't very pliable. It goes round the tuner posts OK though.

I'll decide what to do tonight. It kind of hinges upon me coming up with some kind of tailpiece. Got plenty rosewood to experiment with.

It was making some vaguely musical noises if I held strings down. The bridge isn't glued down yet. Glueing down the bridge will almost certainly necessitate the creation of a new soundboard if I decide to retrace some steps. I was just disappointed with how it's going so far.

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[quote]The strings are plastic, so there be no soldering. I'm thinking that some kind of sandwich, friction based design is called for. Mmm, wingnuts![/quote]

what about something along the lines of the thing used to hold brake cables on old vee brakes on bike..?
something like this?

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Yeah, well I've had a few days to calm down and collect my thoughts. I'm thinking about a block of wood attached to the bottom of the tin/end of the neck which then has 2 bolts through it facing towards the front . A pair of strings passes underneath a washer either side of the bolt and tightened with a nut of some sort (wingnuts for that truly homemade look (but tool-free) or regular). I thought about sandwiching all 4 between 2 bits of wood, but because they are of different thicknesses, it would be tough to guarantee uniform clamping across all four.

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[quote name='neepheid' post='229756' date='Jun 30 2008, 02:55 PM']...I thought about sandwiching all 4 between 2 bits of wood, but because they are of different thicknesses, it would be tough to guarantee uniform clamping across all four.[/quote]
As long as the ball-ends are prevented from passing through then it'll be fine. If these plastic strings of yours don't have a ball-end then tie a grannie knot. :)

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[quote name='Ou7shined' post='229786' date='Jun 30 2008, 03:36 PM']As long as the ball-ends are prevented from passing through then it'll be fine. If these plastic strings of yours don't have a ball-end then tie a grannie knot. :)[/quote]

No ball ends, and as I said they don't knot - too tough and springy. Hence the need for concentrated friction.

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[quote name='Ou7shined' post='229842' date='Jun 30 2008, 04:38 PM']My bad, buddy. :blush:
What are thses string? Got a link?[/quote]

Stihl strimmer line :)

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260145716690"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=260145716690[/url]

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[quote name='neepheid' post='230113' date='Jun 30 2008, 10:15 PM']Stihl strimmer line :)

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260145716690"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=260145716690[/url][/quote]
Ha ha dude you crack me up. Have got 4 diff thicknesses of 36m long?:huh:

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[quote name='Ou7shined' post='230118' date='Jun 30 2008, 10:22 PM']Ha ha dude you crack me up. Have got 4 diff thicknesses of 36m long?:huh:[/quote]

Aye - 0.105", 0.095", 0.080" and 0.065". Only the 0.105" is 36m long, the others are 15.2m long - 36m was all the guy had in the 0.105" :)

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[quote name='neepheid' post='229836' date='Jun 30 2008, 04:34 PM']No ball ends, and as I said they don't knot - too tough and springy. Hence the need for concentrated friction.[/quote]
Could you loop an end back on itself and then use some button thread to tie it into an eyelet?

Alternatively, go to a decent motorcycle shop (preferably one run by old blokes in brown coats) and ask about screw-on (solderless) cable nipples. Or see [url="http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/motorcycle/controlcable.php"]Vehicle Wiring Products[/url] for them (halfway down the page). NOTE: these are [b]NOT[/b] the same as nipple clamps and it will avoid considerable embarrassment all round if you avoid using the term. :)

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[quote name='tauzero' post='230632' date='Jul 1 2008, 04:17 PM']Could you loop an end back on itself and then use some button thread to tie it into an eyelet?

Alternatively, go to a decent motorcycle shop (preferably one run by old blokes in brown coats) and ask about screw-on (solderless) cable nipples. Or see [url="http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/motorcycle/controlcable.php"]Vehicle Wiring Products[/url] for them (halfway down the page). NOTE: these are [b]NOT[/b] the same as nipple clamps and it will avoid considerable embarrassment all round if you avoid using the term. :)[/quote]

That's a neat idea. That would negate the need for bolts/washers - I could simply drill four holes through the wood block and pass the strings through that with these on the end to anchor it. Hmm, a little trip to one of the local bike shops is in order.

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Ha, I couldn't help thinking that there was something familiar about those cable ends. Then it hit me:



Oh yeah!



So after I found four old skool plugs (I always keep plugs!) a combination of nippers and pliers got rid of the copper bit that goes to the fuse. Fed the string through, tightened the screw and bingo - home made ball end, at no cost to me other than half an hour of swapping some plugs around the house because two of my spare plugs didn't have suitable terminals.



So all I need to do is attach that block of wood to the end of the bass then drill 4 holes through for the strings. Poke 'em through the hole, attach these on the ends [i]et voila[/i].

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[quote name='Pkomor' post='235573' date='Jul 9 2008, 11:16 AM']Just a quick question,

How did you go about tapering the neck, and then shaping it?[/quote]

The hard way - took a metre stick and drew lines where I wanted the shape to be, started off with a fret saw so that I could get in there then used the Japanese saw once the fret saw had done enough that I could get the blade in.

There are easier ways of doing this, like a jigsaw or a bandsaw, but I just took my time and did it gradually over a few nights in the comfort of my own home rather than upping sticks and heading to the workshop.

Haven't started the shaping yet, but I'll get myself a spokeshave and/or a surform and use that to remove the bulk of the wood, then sand it.

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