Jabba_the_gut Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 I'm getting close to installing frets in a bass I'm building and would like to know if I should glue the frets in. I found mixed opinions from the web and I'm guessing this topic has been discussed on here at some point (though I couldn;t find a thread) I've got two necks I'm going to do, one has a wenge board the other is maple if that makes any difference. These are also new fretboards that have not had frets installed before. There seemed to be a fait bit of stuff on the web from using Titbond, superglue, epoxy resin or not using anything at all. I'd be grateful for anyones opinion on this.... Cheers Jez Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubis Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 Hi Jez, this will be scratch build #2 I presume?...............very nice job sir! I have read about and used superglue, not sure how good Titbond(?) fnar fnar,(Titebond) or epoxy is, but like yourself I did a fair bit of reading up on it beforehand and ended up just as confused. It seems everyone has their favourite method and they all seem to hold the frets in well enough. I decided in my case that as it was my first fret job I would use superglue and do just a few frets at a time. It worked out quite well and the only thing I will do differently next time (and there WILL be a next time) is to try the pre-bent fretwire which comes ready cut.......I found it a right pain bending it to a consistent radius. While I'm on, the build I'm just about to start on features a lot of wenge.......a wenge neck and fingerboard.....did you cut the fret slots on your neck yourself, if so how did it work out....any tips as I've read that wenge is quite splintery but worth the effort in the end good luck with yours Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabba_the_gut Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 Ah...didn't spot that typo!!! I bought the fretboard with the slots pre-cut for this one. Next time I think I will have a go at doing that myself to. I'm trying to learn a bit more with each one I build. I'm kind of leaning towards using superglue to hold the frets so thanks for letting me know how you found it. Cheers also for the advice regarding pre-bend frets - that might save a bit of time. Cheers Jez Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_5 Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 I used a bit of 'no more nails' to refit an errant fret (for shame) and that's been fine so far - very messy though. The best idea I've seen is to use contact adhesive and thinners, then use a craft knife to dribble it into the tiny gap between the fret and the board. Tried that too - very fiddly but smells wonderful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nugget Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 (edited) If you're useing nickel-silver fretwire then you wanna over do the radius on the fret before fitting quite a lot so it's too curvey. Tap the ends of the fret into the slot first then work from middle outwards. This puts some sideways pressure on the tangs and frets hold better. With stainless frets you want the radius to be as per fretboard before tapping in. I really cant see any reason to use superglue (or anything like that) to hold frets, it's just not necessary and it's only gonna make a mess and really screw things up years down the line when you need to take the frets out for a refret. If you get one fret that doesnt seat properly just whip it out, and stick a new over-bent one in rather than bodging it with glue. Wenge does splinter really easy and you have to be very carefull when cutting across the grain Edited September 19, 2012 by nugget Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabba_the_gut Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 [quote name='nugget' timestamp='1348077359' post='1809006'] If you're useing nickel-silver fretwire then you wanna over do the radius on the fret before fitting quite a lot so it's too curvey. Tap the ends of the fret into the slot first then work from middle outwards. This puts some sideways pressure on the tangs and frets hold better. With stainless frets you want the radius to be as per fretboard before tapping in. I really cant see any reason to use superglue (or anything like that) to hold frets, it's just not necessary and it's only gonna make a mess and really screw things up years down the line when you need to take the frets out for a refret. If you get one fret that doesnt seat properly just whip it out, and stick a new over-bent one in rather than bodging it with glue. Wenge does splinter really easy and you have to be very carefull when cutting across the grain [/quote] Cheers Nugget. How's your latest build going? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si600 Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 How are you cutting the fret slots? The only time I've done it the frets were sort of in the right place, but not quite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nugget Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 [quote name='Jabba_the_gut' timestamp='1348079950' post='1809057'] Cheers Nugget. How's your latest build going? [/quote] It's been put away for a while, I've got a couple of other little projects to finish then I've got 2 builds to start for others so mine has to take a back seat.... I've just realised you're only just up the road from me, let me know if you ever need anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nugget Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 [quote name='Si600' timestamp='1348128471' post='1809560'] How are you cutting the fret slots? The only time I've done it the frets were sort of in the right place, but not quite. [/quote] I made a simple jig to cut the frets 100% square and vertical. It's basically just a sledge than runs on a straight edge (could be anything) and ends up with a perectly square front edge and a piece of flat mdf attached to the saw. Works amazingly well and only took a couple of hours to knock up. Mount the neck parallel to the straight edge. Can be used for a radius jig also without removing the neck so there is only one setup time It looks a bit rough but works a treat .[attachment=118867:DSC04131.JPG] [attachment=118868:DSC04132.JPG] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabba_the_gut Posted September 20, 2012 Author Share Posted September 20, 2012 [quote name='nugget' timestamp='1348135853' post='1809719'] It's been put away for a while, I've got a couple of other little projects to finish then I've got 2 builds to start for others so mine has to take a back seat.... I've just realised you're only just up the road from me, let me know if you ever need anything [/quote] Cheers for that. Might give you a shout in the near future - be interested in seeing the basses you've made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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