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Encore Derision (or D-Bass) Project


silentbob
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Over the last couple of weeks i've had a couple of things on my mind. Firstly, i can't get over how pleased i am with my Encore LTD 83 P-Bass project, and how i'd like to have another go at something similer.
Secondly, i've become sort of obsessed with the Fender P-Bass used by the guy from Jimmy Eat World, which is basically a right handed body and a left handed neck, which enables him to use drop tunings more easily.
It was only a matter of time really until the inevitable happened, so here we go again.
After looking about on the bay to see what was about, i pulled the trigger yesterday on a left handed Encore P for the princely sum of £35. It's the old style with the proper Fender shaped headstock which will be perfect for my needs. If all goes to plan, i'm hoping the neck will fit straight on to a right handed Encore body when i manage to find one. The only thing i'm really worried about is the paint job as i've never attempted this before, and i'm unsure of how best to remove old paint from the body, and then apply the new stuff. In fact, i don't even know what new stuff i need to buy, so if anybody has any tips they will be greatly appreaciated.
I'm going to give some thought to the full spec of the bass over the coming days, but i expect to use all Gotoh hardware again as it works so well on my other Encore. I also have to look at whether certain types of pick-ups, pots and capaciters are more suited to drop tunings than others (again, any tips would be helpful).
I'll try and keep this thread updated reguarly, and will add some pics as soon as i have something to photograph.
Rob

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[quote name='Darkstrike' post='1044536' date='Dec 2 2010, 12:34 AM']Why would a left handed neck make it any eaiser for drop tunings?


That said, I think the combo looks fantastic.[/quote]

I can't get the link to work now to the article explaining it, but basically it's because what would be the "E" string is now the longest string on the neck insted of the shortest which gives it better tension when drop tuning(or something along those lines). The work was done at the Fender custom shop specifically for this purpose after the original neck was broken and the Jimmy Eat World guy asked what could be done to help eliminate string flap when tuning down to C#.
To be honest, i just thought it looked cool. Just a shame Encore didn't make any Precisions with maple fingerboards.

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Oh, this, I've heard this before, I believe RATM's bassist has the same done to his BEAD necks.

Sad to say, but it won't work. A pitch is defined by the strings tension between the nut and bridge saddle, it dosen't matter about any length beyond those two points.



Still, as you say, it looks cool, which I'd say is reason enough!

Edited by Darkstrike
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[quote name='Darkstrike' post='1045872' date='Dec 3 2010, 12:58 AM']Oh, this, I've heard this before, I believe RATM's bassist has the same done to his BEAD necks.

Sad to say, but it won't work. A pitch is defined by the strings tension between the nut and bridge saddle, it dosen't matter about any length beyond those two points.



Still, as you say, it looks cool, which I'd say is reason enough![/quote]

Found the article
"With the band tuning down for many of its songs, Burch wrestled with pitch problems playing his American-made Fender Precision. “The tuning on my bass is low: C#G#C#F#. That’s a half-step down and another full step for the E string. As a result, the string tension is really low. Heavy-gauge strings helped, but if I hit a note, the motion and arc of the string would create tension and pull the note sharp.” When a tour-bus snafu snapped the neck in two, he brought the bass back to Fender Custom Shop’s Alex Perez for repairs—and an unexpected solution. “Alex explained that the more the strings are under tension, the more stable the note is going to be. He did for me what he’d done for other players, which is to put a left-handed neck on a right-handed bass. That made the E string—my low C#—the longest string from the peg to the bridge instead of the shortest. It’s amazing how stable the note is now. I also changed my E string to a heavier .125 from a 5-string set.”"

To be honest, i don't really understand the techy stuff, but like we said, it does look bloody cool, and gives me an excuse to have another bass in the house, which i can leave tuned to drop D. :)

Edited by silentbob
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[quote name='silentbob' post='1046491' date='Dec 3 2010, 04:03 PM']Found the article
"With the band tuning down for many of its songs, Burch wrestled with pitch problems playing his American-made Fender Precision. “The tuning on my bass is low: C#G#C#F#. That’s a half-step down and another full step for the E string. As a result, the string tension is really low. Heavy-gauge strings helped, but if I hit a note, the motion and arc of the string would create tension and pull the note sharp.” When a tour-bus snafu snapped the neck in two, he brought the bass back to Fender Custom Shop’s Alex Perez for repairs—and an unexpected solution. “Alex explained that the more the strings are under tension, the more stable the note is going to be. He did for me what he’d done for other players, which is to put a left-handed neck on a right-handed bass. That made the E string—my low C#—the longest string from the peg to the bridge instead of the shortest. It’s amazing how stable the note is now. I also changed my E string to a heavier .125 from a 5-string set.”"

To be honest, i don't really understand the techy stuff, but like we said, it does look bloody cool, and gives me an excuse to have another bass in the house, which i can leave tuned to drop D. :)[/quote]

That makes sense. As you pluck the string you add a bit of tension, because you're stretching the string, and if the string has low tension to begin with (being tuned down), then what you're adding is significant in proportion, so will have an audible effect on tuning. Having a longer length between tuning peg and bridge does actually reduce the extra tension that plucking produces - essentially you're spreading that plucking effect across more string, so it's dissipated more. (To be more precise, when you pluck, you create extra tension between nut and saddle, but this extra tension then pulls the string across the nut away from the tuning peg. The more string that there is beyond the nut, the more string will cross over the nut, which eases the tension between nut and saddle. Of course, the same thing is happening down at the saddle, so through-body stringing will also help).

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  • 4 months later...

Finally got this one on the go again thanks to another impulsive Ebay purchase. Got myself a Squier Affinity in metallic red to use as a donor body. I figured that as i really like the colour, it would save me going to the trouble of re-spraying something else.
Anyway, stripped it down on Thursday, then gave the lefty Encore neck a good going over with the sander to remove the horrible gloss finish and the headstock decal. Neck is now smooth as silk and awaiting a few coats of Danish oil.
Gave the neck a test fitting into the body and found the neck pocket was slightly oversized. A quick look around the house and i found clear plastic box with some Xmas cards in which was just begging to be cut up and used in a bass build. Five minutes with the siccors and i had myself a couple of plastic shims and a tight fitting neck. Result.
Next job will be to fill the old screw holes in the neck, though not sure what to use as the smallest sized stuff i could find in Homebase today was 6mm, Any suggestions?
Spec wise, i'm going for Gotoh hardware (GB2 tuners and a 201 bridge), and hopefully, if i can find one, a Duncan Designed pickup, similer to the one i have on my VM Jaguar.
That's all for now folks, and here's a couple of obligatory pics.
Rob

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[quote name='Darkstrike' post='1050724' date='Dec 7 2010, 05:55 PM']Heh, I'm betting it's 100% this part of the quote.

"I also changed my E string to a heavier .125 from a 5-string set."

:)[/quote]

The tension doesn't change depending on the peg position but for some reason the subjective feel does. In a similar vein I really noticed how flappy a Fender E string feels when I switched from my previous Ibanez. Same strings, same guage, same scale, same action/set-up. There is tech stuff written about the difference between 'tension' and 'compliance' which is probably relevant.

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  • 3 months later...

Right then, after three months of doing nothing to this i thought i'd better do a bit more. I picked up a scrathplate in black from the bay, and although it was a pretty good fit, there was someting about the plain black colour that just didn't sit right with me, so time for plan B. I dug out the original white pickguard, gave it rub over with some wire wool, then applied a coat of Halfords gray plastic primer. While that was drying it was off to Halfords again to pick out some paint for the topcoat. It took about ten seconds to decide on a BMW metallic black then it was straight back home to finish the job. Paint went on ok, with only a few imperfections that can only be seen up close, and more importantly, it looked bloody awesome.
Next up was fitting all the new electrics, cge mini pots, switchcraft jack socket, orange drop cap and Kent Armstrong pups. Managed to get through it ok with only one monumental screw up (i'll be keeping that one to myself for fear of being labelled the forum idiot), then it was just a case of fitting the scratchplate and Gotoh bridge, then checking the electrics worked (which they did....phew). So that's the body finished, next job, fitting the neck.

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I'm familiar with the interview with the JEW bassist...interesting concept.

Can I throw something in here?

I'm drawn to the shot earlier in this thread where you have the neck on the bass. When the strings pass over the nut, will they actually line up with machines or splay downwards slightly (ie like you get on a hockey-stick headstock)?

P

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[quote name='NancyJohnson' post='1340617' date='Aug 15 2011, 01:13 PM']I'm familiar with the interview with the JEW bassist...interesting concept.

Can I throw something in here?

I'm drawn to the shot earlier in this thread where you have the neck on the bass. When the strings pass over the nut, will they actually line up with machines or splay downwards slightly (ie like you get on a hockey-stick headstock)?

P[/quote]

I'm hoping that they will line up ok, but i guess i can't really know for sure until i get the neck and all the other bits on.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Finally finished. Taken an age, but i got there in the end and i'm very happy with the outcome. The Encore neck feels really chunky and solid (in a good way) and i really love the metallic red / metallic graphite colour combination.
Once again i have to say how impressed i am with the work done by my local tech guy. He made and fitted a hand carved bone nut, strung her up and gave her a set-up, all for the princly sum of £15.50! Excellent work and service.
There are only two small faults that i have picked up on, the first being that the gap between the outer strings and the edge of the fretboard is greater on one side than the other meaning that the strings don't pass exactly over the pick up pole pieces, but to be honest, i've seen this happen to a worse extent on a lot of factory produced basses, so i'm not overly bothered. The other thing is that now the bass has strings fitted, they make the headstock decal look a little pissed, but again, this isn't the end of the world, so no big deal.

In answer to an earlier comment, i've added a pic to show the strings running straight to the tuning pegs as they would on a regular precision, not angled hockey stick style.

Oh, and to save a load of time later, if anybody is interested as to whether fitting a left handed neck to a right hand body does actually help with tuning and string stability when drop tuning, i can honestly, hand on heart say, that i don't have a bloody clue! I'm not really into all the technical stuff, i just like messing around with basses and making stuff i that i think looks cool :D

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  • 4 months later...

I was originally thinking of painting the front gloss black but masking/scraping the bevel white going for the black body, black 'plate maple neck look.
But my P bass has the anodised gold coloured single ply plate (albeit on a chrome red body with a R/W neck), which I have come to love so I might well go down the gold route.
I was Googling the black/maple P bass deluxe special last night and I think it would look good. When I bought the P originally used of BC I was planning to change the plate soon as I didn't think that much of it in pictures but changed my mind almost immediately when I was it in the flesh (so to speak) so pictures aren't necessarily the best way to go.
If I try gold first and hate it I can always go over with black. Maybe not so easy the other way round.

Your project has given me something to think about next time I get bored and want to do something.

Anybody do short scale lefties?

Edited by Leon Transaxle
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