stevie

[quote name='Conan' timestamp='1416836439' post='2614035'] Sounds like a Barefaced Big One would suit you perfectly Stevie. Probably a bit lighter than your Ashdown-based cab(s) too... [/quote] Indeed! I really like the concept of the Big One, but I am not a fan of their cabinet material. The Ashdown as it is now is about 18kg and very compact. With castors, it's quite manageable.

Oh yes, and my cab is fitted with sturdy side handles so that the box doesn't hit me in the shins when I pick it up.....

I can't say that I have a favourite as such, Jack. I've played quite a few boxes that were OK, but nothing that has really blown me away. From a sound reinforcement point of view, most offerings still seem to be stuck in the 1970s. A 12" or 2 x 12" and a tweeter is what HH used thirty-odd years ago. PA has moved on, but bass cabs not so much. I'm a fan of the separate midrange driver approach pioneered for bass cabs by Greenboy (which actually has its origins several decades earlier in the Electrovoice 15/3). My own cab is an Ashdown Mini 15, modified by adding castors, bracing, damping, changing the ports for flared ones and fitting a BMS 15n620 driver in 4 ohms. I use it with an 8" midrange driver in a separate cabinet with a crossover I designed and built myself. To improve dispersion in the midrange, I'm going to swap the 8" for a 6.5" when I get around to it, and I have a couple sitting on the shelf in my workshop waiting. I also have a few interesting 12" drivers waiting for Phil to supply a cab for the Cab Design Diary thread but I don't think any of them will make me change from the BMS. My amp is a Markbass LMIII. For your info!

[quote name='Conan' timestamp='1416815748' post='2613741'] Does that not strike you as an incredibly arrogant comment? Agreed. Some do. But then again, some people seem to circle above BF threads like vultures, waiting to make sniping and facetious comments while adding nothing to the discussion. It's been this way for some years now, and clearly neither side is going to adopt the other's viewpoint. Let's just agree to disagree? [/quote] What has been the case for some years in these threads is that, sooner or later one, of the the Barefaced fanboys will start taking aggressive and personal potshots at anyone who expresses the mildest critisism of their beloved boxes. Like calling them "arrogant", for example, or "vultures" and describing comments as "sniping and facetious". And then - and I love this - they have the cheek to claim that posts, which are actually on topic, add nothing to the discussion.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1416778219' post='2613561'] Only at small signal levels. Maximum output is determined by the driver xmax. That's usually the same for 4 or 8 ohms, so maximum output is also the same. [/quote] While this is usually true in practice, it's not always the case. Sometimes maximum output is limited by what the amp is able to deliver, in which case a 4 ohm cab can be very worthwhile.

I seem to have hit a nerve......

No, but some of my best friends are.

Is he a Barefaced user? I imagine he appreciates their light weight.

Did someone mention feet falling off?

[quote name='skidder652003' timestamp='1416752567' post='2613164'] sooo this!! [/quote] I am reminded of a song by Paul McCartney and Stevie Wonder. I have a white one, so to that!

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1416760708' post='2613264'] I've had the same cab in 4 and 8 ohms ( 212 config ) and they sounded pretty different...to the point that I loved the 8ohm version and I've never really been that convinced about the 4 ohms version.. seriously...!! [/quote] Actually, the 8 ohm and 4 ohm versions of drivers are often different enough for it to affect the sound. So that makes sense.

So how exactly do you measure the impedance of a big door ......?

[quote name='molan' timestamp='1415309487' post='2599168'] I like both and would happily gig either. The MB feels a bit cleaner and articulate but it doesn't have the lovely vintagey warmth and roundness of the TH. [/quote] Brilliant - thanks!

[quote name='dood' timestamp='1415292300' post='2598903'] The later 15" XLs were indeed upgraded to 300W RMS as I understand it. £180 for a pair of speakers of this quality is actually very good and Korg are brilliant. Buying a pair will give you a 600W cabinet and it'll happily spank a lot of 2x15's out there. A single 3015LF from Lean is £175. Case dismissed [/quote] You're paying a premium for the neo magnets with the 3015LF. A driver with a ceramic magnet will cost half that. Case reopened. But yes, get the Celestions if you can.

You won't need to alter the tuning of the cab. Just leave it as it is. To find the volume of the cab, multiply the three internal dimensions - height, width and depth.

That looks pretty bad. If the coil is open circuit there's not a lot you can do yourself. If that were my cab, I'd get myself some new drivers. The cab looks well built, it's plywood, and £200 - £250 invested in premium drivers will get you a system that will outperform just about any 2x15 out there. It's unlikely that you'll have to retune the cabinet - you just have to find some drivers that suit the cab and perform well with bass. Most people, I realise, will just go for a new cab. Alternatively, check eBay for used drivers as Phil suggested. You can often pick up 15-inch drivers for peanuts. Interestingly, someone in your area (Exeter) is selling a pair of nice Celestions on eBay - collection only. They are not the latest and greatest, but they are in the same league as your Hartke's. Just over a day to go and still at 99p. Better not post the URL - just do an eBay search for Celestion K15-200. Those will get you up and running again and give you time to decide how to proceed.

Molan, what's the difference between the TH500 and the Little Mark 3, in your estimation?

Dunc bought a USB hard drive from me last week. A very easy man to do business with.

Dave came by to pick up a couple of electronic gizmos from me this week. It was a very straightforward transaction. Thanks, Dave.

As long as the coil is moving freely you can generally patch up a damaged cone. I obviously don't know how badly cracked it is, but you might consider using some Araldite on it.