mrdreadful

The truss rod nut is at the other end. Getting the pocket lengthened is reliant on other people getting around to doing it as I have neither the tools nor expertise.

So, I got a neck to go with my Flying V bass body, but the heel is too long to fit in the existing pocket whilst maintaining proper scale length. Otherwise it fits beautifully. I've worked out that about 7/16" needs to come off the end to make it fit... Has anyone done this before? How best do I avoid damaging the fretboard and generally making a good job of this?

I got all excited and forgot! But I'm having a new scratchplate made (MIRROR!) in the near future so will be sure to get a picture then! (It's not my neatest wiring job, though.)

[quote name='hubrad' timestamp='1394620854' post='2393333'] just because it was made in a particular way, are we all constrained to only ever use it like that? #bagofworms [/quote] Heh... Mrs. D was puzzled about why I spend £300 on a bass and then rip all the wiring out and change it completely!

So, I did this and it worked. Hurrah! Totally ignored the 'advice' about pot values being tied to pickup impedance (because it appears to me to be so much technobabble) and went with 500k volume and 250k tone/split. The parts alone make the bass sound miles better than it did before, plus the wiring makes it a whole bunch more versatile. [url="http://atomictangerinemusic.blogspot.co.uk/2014/03/carlsbro-pa60-blues-and-retrovibe-rvt-40.html"]http://atomictangeri...ibe-rvt-40.html[/url]

So, I'm building a bass with an onboard Super Hardon clone. I have all the parts for the SHO, and will sort the rest of the electronics soon. Problem is, it turns out the 'top' of the control cavity is quite thick (rear rout), and that means the 5k rev log pot I got for the SHO won't be usable as it's not long enough! So my questions to you are these: is there such a thing as a long thread 5k rev log and if so where I can I get one? And would it likely cause structural issues if I just route/drill out the area (to make the top shallower) so the current pot will go in?

I'm game whichever way really, just needs to have be rectangular and roughly 3.5" x 1.5" - P-styles under a soapbar would be awesome. And it occurs that buying covers is also legit.

Kent Armstrongs are about the same price as Duncans... so still after places I can get Artec, Belcat and Wilkinson soapbars.

I have a vague feeling that I've seen mention elsewhere of Kent Armstrong doing lower priced bass soapbars, so I'll have a nose around and see what I can uncover. Ta!

I put my Bassballs after my BDI21 so kind of using effects loop... Everything else goes ahead of the preamp. Might try the phaser in the loop too at some point.

I have two project bodies which are routed for soapbar pickups... the downside being that sourcing inexpensive bass soapbars seems to be a proper pain in the arse. I know that Artec, Wilkinson and Belcat make/ have made bass soapbars but finding a supplier that has them in stock is difficult. Does anyone have any info that might be helpful (or other possible pickups)? One bass I intend to sell on when finished and the other's a keeper.

I amlooking for a drummer to form either a two-piece or the basis of a power trio. The music I want to do is somewhere in the middle of Ozzy-era Sabbath, Misfits, Black Flag, recent Darkthrone and Electric Wizard; unashamedly old school, mid-fast tempo, fuzz-driven evil. Blackened doompunk. I have a few riffs to build on, and own decent gear. If a two-piece is what happens I can dual amp to fill in the midrange.

Nice. Is the scratchplate a 'proper' Ric one?

No, that doesn't sound right. Pot value is also linked to desired tone, as far as I know. Could you elaborate please?

T-40 schem shows 250k pots... Given that I tune down already I figure that'll be a wee bit dark in humbucker mode. Debating on whether to use 300 or 500k. Or a mix. Thoughts anyone?

I think they work roughly on the same principle as the spin-a-split circuit, except with caps, so they should just be regular pots.

Pretty sure the pickups are 4-wire. Looked at them a while ago when I was thinking about doing regular coil tap wiring. What I'd really like is an actual T-40 but I don't have the funds for that right now and kind of need to finish all my parts projects before buying any more instruments!

Just wondering if anyone has tried this? I want to wring every ounce of tone I can possibly get from my Retrovibe RV4 (2 MM-style humbuckers) and think the Peavey T-40 wiring might actually work pretty well for it, but wanted to just see if anyone else has done similar and get some idea of peoples' experiences if there are any... pretty much doing this because it's cheaper than buying a new bass. [attachment=149483:t40t60qf5nc7.gif]

Megachurch: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQFyohP-sHo

I really enjoyed this series... not enough doom in it though.

Anything that involves aesthetics is purely subjective, and the fact is 'relicing' - or lack thereof - is an aesthetic thing. I like how a little bit of relicing looks, I would consider buying a pre-relic'd bass, and anyone who told me otherwise (ESPECIALLY using the 'if you want relic'd get a new bass and gig it for 40 years' argument) would be be asked to eff off. Just my two penn'orth.

Gretsch do a 'baritone' that's actually a bass VI (six strings, 30" scale, tuned E-e), and by the sounds of it a bass VI is what you're after.

Depends if I can get a lift or not. Either way it's all Peavey. I disapprove of the anti-Peavey undercurrent in this thread.

I play metal. By which I mean I play fuzz soaked bluesy heavy rock tuned to C# standard which will probably be labelled as 'metal' if we ever get beyond the practice space.