rwillett

I wanted a better Midi footpedal than the M-Vave Chocolate so was looking around and stumbled over the PedalinoMini range of DIY pedals. You can see them here https://github.com/alf45tar/PedalinoMini The designer uses a small 32bit System on a Board, so similar to an Arduino, has done some very good software and it looked like it was well supported. If it's GitHub check how many recent releases it has, check the issues and see if the person responds and he does. So I ordered the parts from AliExpress for the 8 foot switch version and they turned up in less than a week. The LilyGo SoC is pretty good, a decent 1.9" display, wifi, bluetooth, what's not to like. I paid for the STL files ($14), downloaded them, printed them out on my 3d printer and immediately thought, I can do better than this. Simple things like he uses screws straight into plastic, this will last five or six fixings and then the plastic will shred and you have a case that has no means of attaching to the base. I also beefed up some of the supports, but to be fair, it was a pretty good design to start with. The instructions are very good, though the wiring diagram requires you to switch your brain around as you wire it from below, but the wiring diagrams are from above and below. Every single step needed to be tripled checked. The only major issues is that the shield you wire into is a point to point, so you then have to bridge the connections to the sockets. It's also very, very fiddly. However apart from one bit of wiring that’s almost impossible to see which joins two LED strips together, its pretty straightforward, but there's a lot of it and it has to fit into a small case. I printed off a mule to wire it into. As I got further and further into the wiring it got tighter and tighter. I then moved the mostly finished wiring into the new case I designed and printed in a rather nice Galaxy Black, basically black with tiny sparkles, who said glam rock was dead The purple tape is simple to hold the LED strips in place whilst I check everything is working. Once I'm happy, the wires and LED strips will be given a good seeing to with a hot glue gun. Somewhat suprising (as I'm a crap solderer), it worked almost first time. Only every second footswitch worked which seemed odd and not a soldering issue. It turns out I'd loaded the wrong firmware in and I think it defaulted to four footswitches rather than eight. Downloading the right firmware sorted that problem out. You need a Windows laptop to really get the initial setup done, but once you have the wifi connected, it works from a Mac and can be configured from there as it's on the wifi. The software seems very good, but I'm still trying to understand what it all does. I still have to put the battery and switch in, otherwise it is powered from the USB-C connector. A 18650 battery will apparently power it for 12 hours. It has wifi, bluetooth, MIDI over USB-C so lets see if I can make it all work with my ToneX and Mod Dwarf. You seem to be able to control a lot of things with it. For the cost of about £40 and one evening and one afternoon of soldering, it seems good value to me. I can't say much more until I've got it properly working. Rob

Excellent

I think I had a full sheet cut into four, one is going to be a sprayt booth, I built two cabs and I have one quarter uncut, so I could make a 3rd 8" speaker OR a 6" House Jam or I could just leave it in the garage to rot away So I think 1220 x 1220 is half a 8" x 4" ft sheet so you should get two out of them. If you do cut them yourself, then I would change one or two dimensions by 2mm or so. It makes zero difference to the volume but makes cutting a little easier. There's something on this in the thread where I discussed it. Basically make the sides 276mm wide rather than 274mm wide, and the top/bottom 276mm rather than 274mm. This extra 2mm should be at the front of the cab and so the volume doesn't change but the 'lip' sticks out 2mm longer. Just easier to cut and thats the only difference. You get an extra 2mm to drop a grill in as well, but thats negligible. My second cab is cut that way from memory,

They sound quite nice as well. I've had zero chance to wind them up due to various things, it'll probably be the weekend before I can try.

I was planning to do an hour or so talk about 3d design and 3d printing at the Bash. A few people have expressed a slight interest. For those of you who remember the village hall in Clapham, there is a little room adjacent to the kitchen, and I would use that. Is this of interest to other people? If so, what would people like to know about? I can't design and print a bass in an hour but I can talk through the basics and explain what works and what doesn't. It's easy enough to bring a 3d printer over and I can make the session interactive. Perhaps show how to design a simple pickup cover, or a volume control or something. Just throwing this out there for feedback and comments (good and bad). Thanks Rob

Nein

Agreed, I did like the Lego look, but the black is cooler.

One of the joys of having a 3D printer is being able to change things quickly. One of the perils of photographing black is photos look crap. Changed all the corners and ports from red to black. From the back And the top. The corners re black but due to flash have come out gray And of course they can be run side by side. A nice modular system. How's it sound, no real idea as work, dog walking and other stuff have foiled any attempt to fire them up in anger I also now have two red ports and a black port now spare. They have a foam gasket for sealing purposes applied and use M3 bolts. Let me know if anybody wants them. Rob

s/gilter/filter/g Yes I can't speal

It takes some people ten years to become an overnight success... Agree with all you have said in your larger post. My day job has nothing to do with music, music is a hobby to help me do something different from resolving complex IT and management issues. It's cheaper than Astrophotography so I reckon thats a bonus Rob

And here's some pictures. The two cabs stack very nicely on top of each other. However they are only loosely connected through the rubber feet on the bottom and the holes in the corners. You're not going to knock them over without a push, but a drunken punter would easily push them down. The bottom one looks nicer than the top one as it's all black (IMO). I may retrofit the black corners onto the top one. The top one happens to have a Mod Dwarf on it and without that, would be the perfect place to place a pint. Still got to do a grill for the bottom one. Side angle and the rear. The handles are great., Easy to carry the whole cab with just one of them. And from the rear I'm quite pleased with how they have turned out. Even better when I can change the top Speakon panel and remove the gaskets. Work has got in the way all day today. Rob

Bring it down, I'll use the Mod Dwarf to act as a DSP, send one signal to one Gnome, and one to the other Gnome. I did think if I had the House Jam 6", use the Mod Dwarf as a filter so the bass signal goes to the 8" and a portion of the rest goes to the 6" speaker. The Mod Dwarf is acting as an active crossover here. No idea if it will work, but this is just the event to try these ideas out Rob

Well I'll be bringing two I have also worked out how to biamp them (if only I had another Warwick Gnome to use). Rob

Yes that's a sensible summary