honza992

[quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1504766611' post='3367089'] I'd be inclined to try a bleaching solution on the bare wood first as an experiment. [/quote] Yep, good idea. I once tried the Liberon Wood Bleacher on ash and it made no difference whatsoever. It may work differently on maple of course. I'll give it a go. My instinct though is that it may need a stronger two part bleach, I think Rustins do one. Though this may be an experiment too far, we'll see how I feel!

I made some alternative knobs today. James at JC Tonewoods (where I got the fretboard from) sent a couple of bridge blanks from the same lot of ebony. They're quite dark, mostly dark brown/black rather than the more light brown of the fretboard, but I think that will work quite well for the bridge. The blank I'm using was big enough for the bridge and to make some knobs, so that's what I did.... I think I prefer them to the ones I made earlier. They'll match the bridge and also the ebony (ok ebano, a fake ebony) binding I'm thinking of using.

Thanks everyone. Yes, from the build thread for Psilos he says its Osmo Raw I've actually already got some of the Raw and the normal Osmo (without the whitener) which I've never used. I bought it to do some tests then ended up going with something else. I'll drop him a PM if he doesn't chime up in the meantime. My aim with finishing is: 1. Satin finish 2. Reasonably toddler resistant (I've found the General Finishes High Performance polyurethane holds up pretty well) 3. Good grain pop 4. Keep the maple as white as possible on the body, happy for the neck to be a bit more tinted 5. Warm up and darken the mahogany as it is a bit pale. However, it does have some lighter sap wood in the middle which I don't want to obscure. 6. Application by a numpty I realise that some of these may be mutually incompatible. My initial experiment of applying shellac (to warm the waterbase finish) then sand is back so the 'fields' return to their un-shellaced colour was not a success. As I feared it came out a bit blotchy. So my current plan is to use blonde shellac on the maple (including the neck) and the garnet shellac on the mahogany. Over everything I will then spray the polyurethane. I hear different opinions about how to achieve a satin finish with spraying. One school of thought is to use a satin version of the clearcoat. The other school of thought is that that can obscure the grain (becuase of the flatteners) and you are better spraying gloss then rubbing it out with 0000 or 1-2000 abralon. I'm currently sitting slightly precariously on the fence. If anyone has any views I would love to hear them. I also need to grain fill the mahogany. Maybe if I were to add a stain to that it could warm and darken the mahogany that way without have to add in an extra seperate staining stage. Any thoughts or advice? God I hate finishing.....

Just a quick question today. I'm going to use General Finishes High Perforance as the top clearcoat on both the body and neck. It's a water based polyurethane which seems to be pretty forgiving in application (I'll be spraying it) but it lacks the warmth an 'pop-ability-ness-itude' which oil based finishes have. So, does anyone have any idea how I can pop grain under a waterbased finish? Without using dye or stain? And ideally without darkening the maple? If I can I'd like to keep the maple as pale as possible. I'm hoping the answer is shellac, so today I started doing some tests on some scrap. On the left is some Zinsser SealCoat, which as I understand is 2 pound blonde shellac. I've diluted it with meths to make a 1 pound cut. On the right is some garnet shellac, made fresh from flakes, also a 1 pound cut. I'm going to try applying each of them to some maple scrap, then seeing if I can gently sand it back so that the maple remains natural in colour, but the shellac that has sunk into the grain will still pop the flame in the top/neck. Anyone know if this is going to work? Or can anyone think of any other way of poping grain but not darkening the wood too much? That's compatible with polyurethane?

[quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1504680269' post='3366462'] Leave it to the tool makers to tart up jigs. [/quote] Ha ha ha, ironically I come from a family of tool makers. Or at least my mother does, and Archdale is the name that will go on the headstock. Admitedly they made machine tools not too relevant to guitar making, but I guess the principles are the same. [And if anyone has any memories of working with Archdale machine tools, or even more amazingly still uses one I'd love to hear about it.]

[quote name='owen' timestamp='1504641898' post='3366344'] Proper lush. If you have the right wood the whole aesthetic looks after itself. You have the right wood. [/quote] Ha ha, you clearly haven't seen the crimes against humanity that I have committed on a range of beautiful, rare and exotic wood that has resulted in little more than a mangled pile of (probably poisenous) firewood.

And finally I routed the neck taper. Using another of my uttlerly hideously ugly jigs. If you are of a weak constitution, or are a proper woodworker, look away now. The neck is narrow - 38mm at the nut with 18mm string spacing at the bridge - so I've kept it a reasonable thickness front to back, 22mm at the nut and 24mm at the 12th fret. Lots of people seem to like using graphite rods but my novice prejudice tells me not to. I feel as though they would fight the truss rod and I'd rather have the neck 1 or 2mm thicker. The flatsawn neck blank seemed to have pretty straight grain so I'm hoping for a stable neck..... If I have some time tomorrow, I'll start on the neck carve. Thanks for visiting.

The body is rapidly approaching completion. I've routed the f-hole, truss rod access rout, and control cavity. I've also done the roundover on the back. I've used a 1/2" radius, which gives a pretty big curve, but I quite like the contrast between the curvy back and the flat front (cos it will eventually have binding). There's a bit of carving that needs doing to blend the different roundover sized near the neck join and obviously masses of sanding that needs to be done. I'll take it to 150 or so and then do the binding, though that's a post for a different day. Here it is as of today.... The weight of the body at this point is just over 1.8kg, so my back-of-a-tack-cloth estimation is a final bass weight of 3.1kg. Just about right for an exhausted 47 year old first time father

Bit of a mish mash of an update today. But let's start with knobs..... Hee hee...... I make my own. It's not complicated, but again (like neck inserts) you really need a drill press. First up I glued the fretboard cutoff onto a piece of mahogany scrap from the body. I then thicknessed this blank to the final height of the knobs, 19mm or thereabouts. I then securely clamp the blank UPSIDE DOWN on the drill press. Every fibre of your being will try to persuade you to clamp it facing up. If you do, as I have done (and I think more than once), yer buggered. Anyway, clamp it down then drill a 6mm hole for the knurled part of the pot. Then [u]without moving the drill or the body[/u] take the 6mm bit out and replace it with a forstner bit, I use 14mm. Drill a few milimetres deep, enough for the hex nut that secures the pot down to the guitar. Assuming you haven't moved anything you should find the two holes are concentric. Again, without moving the drill or the body I use the mother of all plug cutters to cut our the knob itself. Mine is 1/2". Assuming all goes well you should find everthing is concentric and rotates without wobbling on the pot. I hate a wobbly knob Then to reach our knob climax It's just a matter of drilling a 2mm hole for a dot, and a 2.5mm hole for a 2mm grub screw on the side. Somewhat rashly I then decided to sand a bevel onto the top so that in dark you can feel where it's positioned. I'm not quite sure why, I'm only likely to be playing in the dark if my 50p in the electric meter runs out prematurely. I'm not sure whether I like the result or not. Also part of me wishes I had put a bit of maple veneer between the two parts of the knob, so that there was a bit of seperation between the two colours (ie between the mahogany and the ebony). To my eye they are just a bit similar. But, I've got no more ebony scrap so I shall just have to live with them. Let me know what you think. Knob update complete.

Are you sticking with the EDAG stringing you have in the mock up?

[quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1504458884' post='3365002'] It's great to hear your daughter gets a multi-cultural experience already. [/quote] Ooooh, yes. She can already eat icecream and spaghetti like the best of them!

[quote name='fftc' timestamp='1504425982' post='3364690'] My son will be three at the end of the month. Sometimes I long for the relaxing and peaceful days of the 16 month old toddler! [/quote] Ha ha ha that made me laugh. Good jo....hold on, that was a joke wasn't it? You don't mean...it get's worse??!?

If you want more relief in the neck then there are only three cheap options that I can think of. First is to fit slightly heavier strings. This will increase the pull on the neck, hopefully enough to provide the relief you want. Second, if it's a double action rod you can go beyond the neutral position to introduce some forward bend in the neck. Obviously if it's only a single action rod then this isn't an option. Third is to take it back to the shop or return it to Yamaha. Inability of a neck to be in some relief is a defect in my opinion. Alternatively if the buzzing is on the higher end of the neck (ie nearer the bridge) you can increase the string height a little. This may solve the buzzing issue.

[quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1504347196' post='3364240'] Nice choice of internal wrenching neck bolts and countersunk washers. Did you use any bonding agent with the inserts? [/quote] I did wick in some thin CA glue. Massive overkill probably. My guess is the threaded inserts are many times stronger than woodscrews. I started using them becuase my wife is Italian and we travel quite a lot back and forth, so I thought I might be taking a neck off frequently. As it turns out I now have a 16 month daughter so thoughts of doing anything in Italy other than running round after her then collapsing in exhaustion have vanished....there is nothing less relaxing than holidaying with a toddler..

While you are pondering the issue of binding, I'll bring everything up to date. Today was neck joint day. I use bolts and threaded inserts rather than the more usual woodscrews partly because I like a challenge and partly to ensure the neck joint remains true should Trump, Kim Jong Il or Jean-Claude Juncker come round for tea and I am forced to use it as a weapon for the benefit of mankind. The trick with bolts and threaded inserts is that you have to get alignment more or less spot on. It's not hard but I've only ever been able to do it successfully with a drill press - the drill press helps in keeping everying vertical. I've seen people online do it with a hand drill, but they clearly have more ability than me.... I use M5 bolts and threaded inserts. Overkill probably, M4 would probably be fine. Obviously if you are using M4, drill bit sizes will differ. The first step is to drill a 5mm hole through the body then WITHOUT moving the body or the drill do another 15mm hole which will be for the neck ferrule. I then put the body vertically in a vice, put the neck in then by hand twiddle a 5mm brad point bit so that it scratches an indentation on the neck. This indentation is the guide for where to drill the holes for the inserts in the neck. I then tape the neck to a radius block so that it sits nicely horizontal, then drill 9mm holes for the inserts to go in. I then put the inserts in by putting them onto a threaded rod and turn the drill by hand to force them into the hole. This ensures then go in vertically rather than wobbling around all over the place which is what happens if I do it by hand. And that's it! Along with making knobs, this was actually the process that has taken me the longest to work out. Starting from scratch meant I had no general woodworking knowledge to help. For example it took me several necks (and hours and hours and hours frustration) to realise that once you have the drill press and your workpiece clamped down, you can put different sized bits in and out and it will drill one hole centred on the other. It's completely obvious to me now, but not from the outset. And it's been the same with a million other things. It's been a blast! Anyway, the final fitting and I was able to do up all four bolts with my fingers. Alignment spot on.

[quote name='owen' timestamp='1504250450' post='3363593'] Binding is ALWAYS lush. How about some Bird's Eye Maple binding? [/quote] Ha ha I agree! And Bird's Eye maple sounds great, but maybe not yet. From what I've read those exotic bindings are fragile and hard to bend on a iron. Up till now I've only used plastic binding which I bend with the wife's hairdryer. Though don't tell her that. You have though got me thinking.....

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1504193800' post='3363315'] The body sections are in the right place in relationship to the nut. Hmmmm....but the part of the top that meets the neck notch is, hmmmm, the top cutaway. And maybe it should have been the BOTTOM cutaway? There's no option but to order more wood and redo the neck. It has to be said, I don't often make really big boo-boos like this so I reckon I'm owed a few [/quote] Your zen calmness is admirable. I would have thrown the neck through the nearest window! I once cut out a body only to realise I had the template on upside down so the nice wood was at the back and the knots and worm holes were at the front. Would have been fine for a lefty, but, well I'm not......Numpty

Wow, now that is some fine wood. How soft is the camphor laurel? Are you going to void fill? [Edit - having read your other thread I'm guessing ebony dust?]

[size=4][font=Arial]OK, sorry I've been a bit lax in posting updates, so there's a bit to get through.....[/font] [font=Arial]First up I thicknessed the headstock using what is undoubtedly the least attractive jig ever. Every time I look at it I feel slightly grubby. It works though, so I fear utility wins over elegance:[/font][/size] [size=4][font=Arial]Next up is the neck pocket. I've tried a few different methods but the one I like most I've copied completely from here:[/font] [url="http://www.bestbassgear.com/ebass/article/how-to-build-a-bass-guitar-neck-pocket-template-fabrication.html"][color=#1155CC][font=Arial]http://www.bestbassg...abrication.html[/font][/color][/url] [font=Arial]This is what I ended up with:[/font][/size] [size=4][font=Arial]I put the neck on the centre line, then use two straight edges to ensure it's aligned correctly. On the ruler the two straight edges were 62.5mm apart (ie 54mm of string spacing then 4mm each side of gap), an error of 0.5mm which I'm happy with. [/font][/size] [size=4][font=Arial]I clamp the neck down, slide the template over the top then remove the neck. [/font][font=Arial]I then routed it to a depth of 16mm (neck thickness minus minimum height of bridge) then said a short prayer. [/font] [font=Arial]Perfect fit! Oh, yes, time for a mock up:[/font][/size] [size=4][font=Arial]Ignore the knobs and bridge, they’re scrap. But it’s beginning to look more bass like. [/font] [font=Arial]Now peeps, I need your advice. I want to do binding, cos I’m funny like that. Here are your options:[/font] Option 1 - Ivoroid binding with thin black/maple line showing[/size] [size=4][font=Arial]Option 2. Black binding with thin black/maple line showing[/font][/size] [size=4][font=Arial]Option 3. Plain ivoroid binding (photo taken from an earlier build)[/font][/size] [size=4][font=Arial]Option 4. Plain black binding (photo taken from an earlier build). [/font][/size] [size=4][color=#000000][font=Arial]Anyone have any views or preferences? It’ll have La Bella tapewound strings which are black. I'm not sure yet what wood the bridge will be made out of. Ideally it will be the same as the fretboard - I’ve emailed the supplier but haven’t heard back as to whether they have a bridge sized blank. [/font][/color] [color=#000000][font=Arial]I would do another poll, but what with Brexit then the top wood/fretboard poll I should imagine you are all exhausted. So just comment away.....[/font][/color] [color=#000000][font=Arial]As ever, thanks for you input. [/font][/color][/size]

Google is rubbish. I'll just open a imgbb account! Thanks.

Hmmm...very strange. When I use the image shortcut button in the normal reply box the photo comes up (ie I can see it in the editor) but when I press 'Post' I get an error message saying "[color=#5A5A5A][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=3][center]You are not allowed to use that image extension on this community.". [/center][/size][/font][/color] If I use the "More Reply Options" button to go to the advanced editor, then press the image shortcut button, the photo doesn't appear at all, just a text link.

Ped, I'm using google drive to host my pics. I can paste in a url which works fine, but I'm not getting a thumbnail in the text of the post as you are. Any idea why? Thanks.

Looks great! It's always good to get a project finished. Speaking of which, how did the finishing go? What did you use in the end on the body? Was it the effect you were after?

Not too much of an update today. I drilled out the top chamber with a forstner and finished with a router. [attachment=252231:IMG_20170828_093344.jpg] I then glued on a piece of 0.6mm black veneer using a hand pump & vacuum bag and epoxy. I use epoxy rather than titebond because in the past I've had issues with the body warping, I assume from the water content in the glue. With epoxy though there's no movement at all. Tomorrow I'll cut away the veneer from the top chamber then glue on the maple top, again using the vacuum bag. [attachment=252230:IMG_20170828_114742.jpg] I've put in the black veneer just to add in a bit of interest to the ivoroid binding. I'm also going to leave some of the maple top exposed from the side. So from bottom to top it will be mahogany, black stripe, maple stripe, then ivoroid binding. Or at least that's the plan at the moment. I'll do a test sample before routing the binding to make sure it doesn't look too ridiculous.

[quote name='samhay' timestamp='1503775104' post='3360873'] A No. 4 is a good size for jointing using a shooting board. [/quote] Thanks Samhay. The article that SpondonBassed pointed to also suggested that in direct contradiction to what I've always been told, size really doesn't matter. When I find some time I'll try putting together a shooting board and try my No.4. My trouble is I get impatient, trying to build rather than building up my skills which in the long term would be much, much, more useful......