Paolo85

Right now I am exploring different type of basses because it's fun, because it seems there is a lot of decent affordable stuff around, but the excuse is that I do it as part of a process to figure out what sort of playing style I want after a 9-year break (in a way longer than that but it's complicated) and some radical changes in musical taste. In fact, right now I am exploring quite basic differences (one 4-string fretless active modernish, one 4-string fretted passive vintagy, one 5-string fretted modernish, one cheap EUB immediately returned, one 5-strings fretless coming.. maybe a mid/short scale bass wil add to that eventually). The plan was to just figure out what I wanted and see see how things evolved (eg, will I join a band? What kind of band), then stick to the "right" one or two basses, hopefully upgrading from the sort of stuff I am buying now (all under £300, although two of them would have been above new). But then things may work out differently. With the latest two basses I bought, I told myself (and my wife) that I was going to sell one of the existing ones. But then the basses are still there.. because I like them all

Sorry, on second reading I think you meant adding relief so you could lower the stings.. please ignore my previous post 😁

If you did not get allen keys with the bass, it could be worth buying a full set (they come at arounf £15 on amazon) so you also get the small ones for the string height at the bridge which you may also want to adjust after moving the truss rod. By the way, I am not so sure adding relief would get the strings down, though I am still learning about setup. My advice, which may or may not be of help, is to check the Fender guide to setup and follow it by the letter. After you have done that, you can adjust truss rod or height at the bridge if need be (if you get buzz up to the fifth fret, maybe you need a bit more relief, after the fifth maybe better increasing height at the bridge, if you do not get any buzz maybe you can try going a bit lower). To follow the Fender guide however you also need a capo, a gauge feeler, a metal ruler with marks down to the 0.5mm at least, and tools to measure neck radius (although you may know that already). I believe you can buy all this stuff (including allen keys) for a total of £40ish. Which is some money but I think it is worth it. I had long tried to do my setup in more "improvised" ways but with mixed success. Then I decided to do everything by the book with the Fender guide on my Sire V5 and everything was suddenly ok

I bumped into this and I am quite intrigued. I was exploring options for a 5-string fretless at £400ish, but it seems there isn't much really in that range except from Sire basses which isn't exactly what I am looking for. I was thinking the HB could certainly be an introduction to 5-string fretless with limited downside in terms of price. I have seen a couple of videos on youtube. As usual, it looks like a good player could get a good sound out of it (not that I am one). But I am only interested if it is a solid bass with a decent neck that its thing without serious flaws..

Ok, I take it back 😁

I do not understand the clickbait criticism. Lobster is clearly running a business. Seriously, what person owns a Rick and buys a £190 Harley Benton copy? How many people spend their evenings making 20 minute videos (writing down, presenting, recording, editing, all to a good enough standard)? Ask anyone who makes videos for a living: it's actual work. Fun, but work. He's running a respectful business that helps people like me with limited experience getting an idea of what their perfect bass may be.. within the budget. As a person running a business he hopes to get viewings and he presents his stuff in certain ways, the same way a small local newspaper bumping into a story that is of impact for the local community would run it in the front page with big headlines. Even if the story would not in itself be remotely worth the attention of a national. For a channel entirely dedicated to cheap basses, the fact that the Gretsch is cheap does not mean anything. In fact, it makes it even more topical. For some, few hundred pounds is a lot. I do however understand the "so what, it sounds great" criticism.

That's a very interesting question. I have a 34" fretless that I love playing. I am also craving a Squier CV Jaguar 32". My intonation is already not very good as things are, so I am holding back with the Squier..

Many thanks! I think I'll try that next time. I have TI flats on my other two basses and I love them (at the same time, I agree that LaBella flats sound better especially for the purpose of sounding like flats proper.. if only they were low tension!) By the way on that I have to report that I have put some TI Jazz on, but rounds. Playability is incredible. I had to add a bit of relief, but this is more than offset by the low tension of the strings (maybe they are the lowest thension strings on the market?). At the same time, there is some buzz if I dig in hard (I rarely do). Also G is .043 and E is .089. For as good as the strings can be, this is noticeable. They sound surprisingly aggressive and maybe not "full" enough. I would not buy them again. But given the cost, I'll let them age a bit and see if they get better. Overall I would say the work well for an Ibanez (G)SR, however, as long as that's the sort of strings one is looking for. Maybe if I was playing metal, as I was many many years ago, and I was chiefly concerned with speed and coming out in the mix given that the guitar covers it all, they would be perfect.

Very helpful thanks! Yes it looks it's not minor issues that can be overlooked

Apologies for quoting a 2021 post, but may I ask you what sort of problem did rhe Jaguar CVs have? I'd really like one but I find this discouraging

I have just now received a refund from Bax for a Stagg EDB I had decided to return after a few days. They would always reply to my emails within a day or so. I must say the logistics of the return it has not been a simple matter. At some point I suspected they were planning not to give me the full refund because the box was broken - it was already when it arrived and I explained to them I had a video of the unboxing. But to be honest I think there might have been a misunderstanding. Their policy is that you have to put the product box into a Bax box before returning it and stick the address on the latter. You cannot stick anything on the product box. But I received my Stagg without Bax box (I imagine because of the size), and as the product box was I figured I would need to put a lot of tape to ensure the Stagg would survive the shipping. So I told them that and their answer was that they would then make a decision on the full refund upon reception. Someone smarter than me would have immediately figured out that I could just wrap the product box into something and then put tons of tape outside. I eventually did that and now I have a full refund with no discussion. The experience overall was unpleasant but I think I could order from them again if needed - either "low risk" items or things that it seems I cannot get anywhere else.

Interesting note on the string, which I will have to change one day I guess! Does anyone know how reportedly low-tension roundwounds such as DR sunbeams or TI Jazz would fit on a SR-serie bass? [Edit] I have just learnt that Ibanez actually makes strings: https://www.thomann.de/gb/ibanez_iebs5c_e_bass_string_set_045.htm that might be what they put on the cheapest basses!

Just bought an affordable ticked to this club with an Ibanez GSR205b. I wanted a bass to see if I can get into five strings, but at a price I would not really regret. I couldn't be happier with the choice, great value for money. I am particularly impressed with the neck, not only because it is slim - this is just a know fact - but because it came (I understand straight out of factory, although I bought it in a shop) with a very low action with minimal buzzing. Height for E at 12th fret 2.5mm, and relief... little more than 0.05mm. Basically flat! So I guess very good fretwork. Strings feel low tension, which I like, although this may be an impression I get because of the low action. Does anyone know what these strings might be?

Done it with a D from another set of fairly new strings I had recently removed from another bass. It still buzzes. Definitely less I must say, but I believe this is because that D is higher tension than my TI's A (in fact, relief went from around 0.3mm to around 0.33-34mm with the new string on). On one hand, it seems if I was playing with higher tension strings maybe the problem would be negligible, on the other hand it seems there's something clearly happening at the 7th fret. And I want to play with TI's anyway! It's time to bring it to a professional! many thanks for your help!

Interesting! I have tried that, as well as tuning up, it seems the buzz remains on the 7th fret in this case! I see, maybe I'll bring it in before I flatten the neck, just to avoid playing wit the truss rod too many times possibly without getting anything out of it That could be the case - I am using TI flats so they are already sloppy to start with. Interesting it happens at as specific point in the fretboard though

Many thanks! I have tried a credit card as well as a rectangular metal ruler (5cm and 9cm/3.5" sides). No bump that I am able to detect. I'll try to find a straight 6" object Would it be possible that the relief hides a bump? So maybe in that position more than a bump there is lack of curvature? I have pushed relief up to 0.3mm and string height at 2.5mm. The buzz, while still there, becomes acceptable once amplified. Still I'd love a very low action and I am interested, even just for personal knowledge/future purchases, in understanding how low action can go on a very good neck. I understand this depend on personal taste on buzz, but the situation I am/was in is that one single note on the fretboard sounds extremely different from all others nearby so I imagine one could "objectively" say that's not great

Hi all, I have a question: I have Cort B4 fretless, around 10-year-old, with 0.24mm relief, 0.35mm height at the nut and 2mm height at the 12th "fret" (without fretting in first position). I get a big buzz at the 7th "fret", especially on the A string. This buzz diminishes if I increase relief so it is probably not buzzing at the bottom of the neck. Pushing string height to 2.5mm would not solve the problem for the A. And truth is I'd like a low action and the rest of the fretboard sounds just fine to me. Do you think the problem is that the action is very low, and I am bound to have some issues especially at the 7th fret unless I get a bass with a perfect ebony fingerboard or something? Or does it look like there is an obvious lump and a luthier can sort it out?

Purchased a Sire V5 last week. Very nice guy, very nice bass. I would definitely buy again from him

Turns out it's all well! Thanks all

Good point I was assuming I could reap them off easily, but that was based on not very much so I guess that may not be a good idea!

...sounds like gauged files would cost more than having the nut replaced. Question: I have an old set of .045-.105 strings. What if I put them on, and try to put baking soda and superglue at both sides of each string to fill the gaps? Would that make sense?

Looks like something I want to try!

Thanks. Unfortunately it is U shaped, I assume V would have been better. The bass is a Cort B4fl. As for the budget, I try to spend as little as possible as long as I am not at risk of making any damage. At some point I will bring it in, there are a few things I need to do and I may as well have the nut replaced if needed. But happy to play around for a period. Is the superglue and baking soda suggestion a thing, or was it ironic?

Hi all. I have recently filed thr nut slots of my bass to fit some Rotosound 88 but I kind of regret it. They sound great but I have intonation problems and tension is higher than I had expected (btw, I strongly reccommend against if you don't have a string-thru) Is it ok to just move back to normal gauge strings, or do I need to have the nut fixed? What sort of problems may come out that I have to watch out for? Thanks