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Posts posted by BassBunny
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10 hours ago, barkin said:
I have, on occasion and depending on the design of the jack, been able to pull a tiny contact file, from my Strowger days, between the contacts.
For a clean barrel & t/r contacts, a squirt of Servisol on a cotton bud is my preference.
Strowger, you must be ex BT/PO Telephones. I remember my stint in an exchange during my apprenticeship.
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1 hour ago, barkin said:
More likely the problem's on the (normally made) switching contacts, and breaking them a few times by inserting a jack plug cleans the contacts sufficiently to get rid of the problem. No gloop squirting required - although I guess some of it may find its way to where it's really needed.
Gotcha, my bad.
That's exactly the "cure". It's inserted/removing of a jack plug that disturbs any crud. A bit of switch cleaner just ensures you get a nice clean jack socket at the end but certainly not always necessary.
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It's a bit difficult to explain. It's not the tip or ring where a jack would touch. It's a set of contacts that break when the jack is inserted. I'll try a get a pic of the type of socket used.
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49 minutes ago, barkin said:
How does dirt/oxidisation on the barrel (or ring/tip contacts) of a jack socket cause problems if there's normally nothing plugged in to it?
More likely the problem's on the (normally made) switching contacts, and breaking them a few times by inserting a jack plug cleans the contacts sufficiently to get rid of the problem. No gloop squirting required - although I guess some of it may find its way to where it's really needed.
The effects loop have make/break jacks. If you don't use them the contacts, which are normally made, can oxidize and go high resistance causing a loss of signal.
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Here the link. It's an Ibanez 5 string sound gear by the looks of it.
Obviously a gigging player judging by the cables etc. in the case.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/SheffieldLitterPickers/permalink/2622752294567752/
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On 13/12/2023 at 20:08, ebenezer said:
The amp seems to work OK, have left the patch lead in....have since bought a LM3....have a gig on Friday night so will try the LM2 at volume and see what happens...fingers crossed.
So it looks like a bit of corrosion in one or both of the effects loop jack sockets. It's a pretty common problem if you never use them.
Either:
1. Plug a jack in and out of each socket repeatedly to try and clean them up
2. Leave it as it is.
3. Get some switch cleaner and give it some wallop. Which you've done.
4. Get the jack sockets changed.
I'd do a combination of 1&2. After a bit of In/Out action just leave a nice short patch lead in the effects loop.
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3 hours ago, vantagepointrocks said:
But unlike Huey I don't think we'd be able to convince the Tower of Power Horns to come along and back the band.
The sheer mention of Tower Of Power has me yearning to do "Only So Much Oil In the Ground". We are a 10 piece band with a horn section, but the band wouldn't go for it. Not sure I could keep up with Rocco's 16th note baseline either.
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Check out Tiny Tone in the "affiliates" section.
Great service and 20% off for BassChatters.
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17 hours ago, Dad3353 said:
Beat me to it.
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On 27/11/2023 at 21:07, ardi100 said:
Is any 2 button latching footswitch ok for the drive and sub?
As long as they are latching switches, any should be fine.
I had a Neewer NW202 which I sold on here earlier in the year. I checked with Dave Green and he confirmed it was OK but I had to disconnect the LED's.
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5 hours ago, northcountrybob said:
Feel free to make recommendations!
Northern Soul is right up my street. I'm of an age where I used to go to Wigan Casino allnighters and the Twisted Wheel so a massive Northern fan.
Three classics to check out are the "3 before 8". The same three numbers were played at Wigan leading up to 8am Sunday morning every week These became known as the '3 before 8':
Time Will Pass You By - Tobi Legend
Long After Tonight Is All Over - Jimmy Radcliffe, and
I'm on My Way - Dean Parrish.
Then try:
Right Track - Billy Butler
Out on the Floor - Dobie Gray
Landslide - Tony Clarke
You're Gonna Make Me Love You - Sandi Sheldon
The Night - Frankie Valli & the Four Seasons
Soul Time - Shirley Ellis
I could go on for ever. If it's still available on BBC iPlayer, check out "Northern Soul at the Proms". It was an absolutely stonking show and a great choice of Northern numbers featured.
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It's not the socket that is the problem, it's more likely the plugs on your speaker lead, or one of them.
It's an easy swap but if you are going for a new speaker lead make sure you get one with genuine Neutrik plugs.
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If the cable is made up with Speakon plugs other than Neutrik ones, that could be your problem. There are a couple of threads on here where the use of non Neutrik ones have caused just the problem you describe.
Just change the plugs rather than buy a new cable.
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There's a massive IEM topic on here that would be a good place to start. I think it's in the Accessories section or just do a search.
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3 hours ago, Reggaebass said:
It’s worth giving Dave Green a call at Ashdown, really helpful guy, I’ve met him many times and I’m sure he’ll tell you what it is
+1 for. Dave Green. Pretty much the stock answer for Ashdown problems. Speak to Ashdown, best customer service going.
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250K is the standard for normal pickups but not sure with active. A 0.1 uF capacitor should give you quite a range between off and full on.
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Hi Luis, that's a step in the right direction. I was completely confused by Peavey's description of the bass being "active but with a passive tone control".
So it's actually just "active" pickups, the rest is just standard passive controls.
Changing the capacitor will just make a difference in how much treble cut the control has. It's a bit confusing calling it a tone control as there is no "cut and boost", just treble cut, or it's becomes more bassy. A 0.1 uF capacitor will cut more treble than a 0.047.
I think the pot might be the issue. Is it a log or linear pot?
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+ additional 5% off if it's your first order.
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Contact @Ashdown Engineering. They are repairing TE gear now I believe. Makes sense considering the Trace/Ashdown history.
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Hi Luis, there doesn't seem to be much information about the electronics in these bases at all. It appears they have a passive tone control, same as Fender Precision or Jazz, so replacing the potentiometer and capacitor is an easy fix.
Could you take a picture of the whole of the control cavity so we can see exactly what is in there.
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Just now, Doctor J said:
If you have a multimeter, see if the preamp is getting a charge when the bass is not plugged in. It could be something simple like something making contact and completing the battery circuit when the bass is unplugged.
This
It could be something as simple as a problem with the jack socket.
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1 hour ago, PaulHornBass said:
As you say, the challenge will be accessing the vol pot body to apply the contact cleaner. I think when I last checked, the closest (possibly only??) Markbass authorised tech was in Sheffield.
From what I remember the amp section comes out pretty easily. The mounting screws are clearly visible going through the cabinet. The beauty is that once removed it is just a Little Mark without the lid, so you can easily see the workings.
Unfortunately Real Electronics in Sheffield is the only authorised MB service centre and I am pretty sure they don't repair to component level. A faulty gain pot would be a new pre-amp board.
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It's likely to be one of these. My two Ibanez Mezzo's have these type fitted. Although cheepy versions, not Neutrik.
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Pretty sure Glockenklang preamps have the Volume/Switch pot housed on a PCB.
It still may be possible to mod it but might need some investigation.
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Bass paint sprayers
in General Discussion
Posted
I know a guy that does vinyl work and based in Sale, just outside Manchester. If you wanted a flashy printed design he is brilliant at that sort of thing as well.