Nostromo

Just watched an intersting Youtube clip by a guy who's upgraded the tone control on his P Bass Special with a Stellartone unit . . . I'm not at all sure how it works exactly but he's fitted it in alongside (rather than in place of) the stock tone control. About all I know about it is that its a passive tone pot that sits under the scratchplate ? I just went on the website of the company that makes and sells these but they are currently sold out . . . indicating that demand must be exceeding supply ? . . . . maybe these are good ? anyone have any experiance of this Stellartone upgrade ? Cheers

Just found the following via a google search which looks like a fender spec sheet cut and paste for this model:- Model Name: U.S. Prodigy Bass (Active Preamp) Model Number: 014-4200 [color="red"]*see below[/color] Series: U.S. Prodigy Series Body: Poplar Neck: Maple Fingerboard: Rosewood No. of Frets: 20 Scale Length: 34” (864 mm) Width @ Nut: 1.625” (41 mm) [color="red"]*see below[/color] Hardware: Chrome Machine Heads: Standard Bridge: Standard Pickguard: 3-Ply Black Pickups: 1 Standard Precision Bass Pickup (Mid), 1 Standard Jazz Bass Pickup (Bridge) Pickup Switching: Pan Pot Controls: Master Volume/Pan Pot, Treble Boost/Cut Bass Boost/Cut Colors: (702) Lake Placid Blue, (706) Black, (725) Crimson Red Metallic, (780) Arctic White (Polyurethane Finish) Strings: Dynamaxx 1200L Unique Features: Active Preamp Source: U.S. [color="red"]*see below[/color] Accessories: Case, Strap, Cable U.S. MSRP: $599.99 in 1991, $649.99 in 1993 Specs: Prices and Specifications Subject to Change Without Notice INTRODUCED: 1991 DISCONTINUED: 1993 [color="red"]*[/color] Couple of things to note . . . . This spec sheet says the nut width is 1.625" (41mm) . . . well my example definitely has a 1.5" (38mm) nut which is clearly original the neck hasnt had any work done on it at all. 014 in the model code ? . . . I know 013 designates USA manufactured instruments, but am not sure about 014 ? . . has anyone posted up a data sheet on basschat identifying which code numbers relate to which country of origin/manufacture for fenders ? Interesting to note that the spec data says "Source: US" . . doesn’t say made in the US. So I think that backs up the rumour and Flat Eric's comment that they were assembled and finished in the USA from components, some of which (ie the body for sure I've read) were manufactured in Mexico. I think fender did that with several models in the 90's, maybe thats what the 014 in the model code is telling us ? Well . . . that’s the latest info I've found . . . any more pearls of wisdom on these very much appreciated. Would be particularly nice to know if they were used by any notable players and any such pics would be interesting ? Have to say it’s a really comfortable and playable bass. Very easy to play and most Jazz bass players would find the neck ok I think. . . . a bit Geddy Lee I would describe it as, ie slim and fast . . . as for Styling ! . . well I guess it is what it is from a styling point of view, I quite like it but I can see why it wouldn't have caught on with traditionalists when it came out in the 90's cus it does look a bit like a bass version of a super strat so to speak ! ! Tone wise I've just been playing it (quietly to only moderately loud) through my SWR500/Demeter 2x12 rig (so no really loud playing analysis here) and first impression is that its slightly brighter than ether my Power Jazz Bass Special or my Mex Fender Active P Bass Special, which are the two guitars I’ve A/B'd it against. I think there is a lot of mid range in the pre amp balance . . . the bottom end is there ok but you’ve got to experiment and dial it in as its quite bright if you set all the controls to their mid/neutral position, and, if as many of us do we start with all the knobs cranked to ten, then yea it is a very bright sound you start with, but it stays nice as you roll the top/mid off to expose a bit more of the bottom end which is there ok. Nice bass . . . dont see many of them about . . . so for me this one's a keeper for thre time being !

[quote name='gjones' post='1256425' date='Jun 4 2011, 01:10 PM']All I can find in my Fender book is an active Precision Bass Plus which looks similiar to yours has the same font on the headstock and was manufactured in the early 90's along with a Jazz Bass Plus. Sorry I can't help you more.[/quote] Thanks for that gjones, I remember the Precision Bass Plus being mentioned in one of the few bits of info I have been able to trawl up from Google relating to the Prodigy Bass. I've spotted a Prodigy Bass for sale on USA ebaY but its got a pick guard and three control knobs so Im not even sure that it's the same model as mine ? Anyway hope its worth bumping this up just the once in the hope that it catches the eye of someone who may be knowledgable on these ? Cheers,

[quote name='Sibob' post='1256532' date='Jun 4 2011, 03:07 PM']I had a Precision with a Jazz neck a while ago.....didn't get on with it.....something just wasn't quite right. I love my Jazz's neck, I love my Precision's neck.....but mix them and it doesn't gel with me for some reason...odd Si[/quote] Its all down to personal preference isnt it ? I love my J/P mongrel as listed below . . . . what exactly is the model of this Precision with a slim C neck . . . at the moment I wouldn't know what to look out for . . . is it a specific model ?

[quote name='jonthebass' post='1256542' date='Jun 4 2011, 03:21 PM']Did you actually measure it with a ruler in the shop or are you basing it just on feel? Cheers, Jon[/quote] What I did do was get a piece of paper and mark the nut width on that . . . then, when I got home, I compaired those markings with the nuts on my Jazz Bass Special's . . . the nut was wider almost 1/4" wider. As I say . . . I was very surprised . . . . . I wonder if Duffs originals were mongrels with precision necks ? . . . . . If they were, then that would make this model dimensionally correct as a Duff Signature bass ? ?

I’m seriously keen on MIJ Jazz Bass Specials. As you can see from my signature list below I have both a Jazz Bass Special and a Power Jazz Bass Special – they are great instruments - and I have been led to understand that these were the very models that Duff McKagan always favoured ? . . . . but I could be wrong ? So it was with some interest that I found a Duff McKagan Signature P Bass in my local Guitar shop and I asked to try it out ! . . . . . Was I surprised or what ! ! ! . . . . I would say that the defining feature of an 80's Jazz Bass Special or Power Jazz Bass Special is the coupling of a precision style body & pickup with a super slim Jazz profile neck . . . so I was really expecting the Duff McKagan Signature model to feel similar to my MIJ originals ? . . . . Couldn’t have been further from the reality of the experience . . . . the current Duff McKagan Signature Model has got a PRECISION style neck on it ! ! ! ! ! . . . definitely not 1.5” at the nut – I would say the neck felt almost Identical to the neck on my Highway One Precision. I looked on the spec sheet on the Fender Website when I got home and it clearly states Jazz Neck 1.5” at the nut. I also phoned Fender UK and they swore blind the model is fitted with a Jazz neck . . . . . . Well folks it aint . . . . its got a precision neck and neck profile - and to handle it feels absolutely nothing like an original 80’s Jazz Bass Special. What an unexpected surprise ! . . . .

I love mine . . . . a real "looker" . . and it sounds every bit as good as it looks. most of all I love the neck shape and profile . . . . I guess they only really appeal to the Jazz Bass fraternaty . . . . the neck probably wouldn't be first choice for a precision player ?

Anyone know for a good website that clearly details the various models and evolution of Ricky bass guitars ? I'd love to own a Rickenbacker Bass and recently tried out a brand new mapleglo Rickenbacker 4001 C64 ? ? ? I thimk it was . . . . I liked it but decided to do a bit more research and maybe look out for something second hand and hopefully a bit cheaper ? Troiuble was - I got completely confused by the different model numbers ie "C63's" . . "C64's" . . then I think there were some that were "V's" something or other ? . . . and all in all I didnt have a clue which were which, and what, if any, were the differences between these various models ? . . . . So now I've sort of given up looking out for one mainly due to my confusion as to what is what ?

Hi, Ive just picked up a Fender Prodigy Bass . . . from the serial number it looks like it was made in 1991, so about 20 years old. Id say its in almost Mint condition, no fret wear whatsoever, and no marks or dings other than an almost invisible hairline crack in the finish under the E string and a tiny, less than a pea sized, 1mm depresion in the back of the headstock, which again is almost un-noticable. Ive looked on the internet and there's lots of info on the 6 string Prodigy, which was a sort of 90's "super Strat" guitar. But hardly any info on this Prodigy Bass model, which, in a similar vein I would describe as a sort of "super Jazz" . . if you get what I mean ? The bass has a slab style slightly cut down Jazz Shape body with just a simple front contour, super slim fast Jazz style neck (which I love and is why I bought it). It has a slightly narrow looking Jazz style headstock. The logo on the headstock says "Made in USA". It has active electronics with dual concentric controls. See picture attached. Anyway, I cant seem to find anything out about this model at all, so if any of you fender bass guru's out there could enlighten me about this bass or offer any info about the background to this model and how its now considered in terms of value and collectability then I'd be very interested to hear ? ? ? Also would be interesting to know what the original fender model code was for this bass . . . that might help me google more info on it ? ? [attachment=81727:Prodigy.jpg]

Hi there, I just got tangled up in a discussion trying to decide what make/model of bass John Taylor was playing on the Duran Duran gig on TV last night ? Would be really grateful if anyone out there who saw the TV gig could confirm what exact bass he was using ? thanks

[quote name='The Bass Doc' post='1162965' date='Mar 15 2011, 12:30 PM']I may remind you of this at regular intervals during the coming months/years. Posting the packet off today....knobs to you.[/quote] Knobs safely arrived. V M T's . . . Cheers,

[quote name='icastle' post='1163581' date='Mar 15 2011, 07:55 PM']No reason not to use threadlock, but I suspect that if the saddle is dropping then the thread is so badly worn that threadlock isn't going to help you. I'd be more inclined to work out whats happening and fix it rather than use workarounds.[/quote] Fair point icastle, But on this occasion, if it were me, I'd probably give it a go with the nail varnish or something similar . . . . . . nothing to loose by trying ! After all, even if you used some proper "threadlock" and then it all goes wrong, then its nothing seriously lost . . . its not as if a new replacement Mex saddle is hard to get or expensive ? . . . . . . [color="#4169E1"][i]"Whilst endeavouring to offer good advice I make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, reliability, suitability or viability of this information with respect to any proposal or purpose. Any reliance you place on this information is therefore strictly at your own risk".[/i][/color] . . . . . . . No . . seriously . . . . give it a try ! Cheers

[quote name='icastle' post='1163588' date='Mar 15 2011, 08:00 PM']IIRC this amp has a single valve pre-amp[/quote] Yes you do recall correctly, its got 12AX7 pre amp valve I think, and, my SWR SM-500 has, I would estimate, run for between 1000 and 1500 hours altogether since new on this same valve. Its never been changed. I dont know what the normal service life of a 12AX7 pre amp valve ought to be ? Maybe the valve is wore out ?

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1163489' date='Mar 15 2011, 06:42 PM']I think if anything they reduce the string's contact area at the bridge (unless you have a small enough string gauge that can be "cupped" by the pitch) - which runs contrary to any of the other mumbo-jumbo about maximum contact = sustain.[/quote] Yea - I agree with you there Ou7shined, seems to me that the "max contact = sustain" thing is truly mumbo-jumbo . . . . . . its always seemed intuative to me that minimum contact whould equal maximum sustain ? . . . . Dont think I want to explain why . . . . it would turn this reply into a war and peace post I think ? ? No doubt its been discussed on here many times before anyway ?

Hi, After many years of totally trouble free use and fantastic reliability, my SWR SM-500 has developed a very loud buzz when first switched on from cold. When first switched on it now buzzes away very loudly for about 3 to 4 minutes whereafter the buzz fades away from loud to nothing over about two minutes and after that it performs fine ? . . . it acts the same whichever bass guitar / guitar lead / cab / cab lead I use with it. It only started doing this about three weeks ago and never ever did it before - I'm wondering if I'm hearing a pre-curser to bigger problems or a breakdown ahead ? It’s not my main gigging amp, but I use it every week for practice and always take it to gigs as a standby/understudy for my valve gigging amps. Big question is - if the loud buzz is trying to tell me something is wrong, then would it be worth having it serviced now or is it best to wait till it actually breakes down (if indeed it even is going to break down ?) before I take it to be looked at ? Or can anyone else assure me that such buzzing is ok and normal for a cold SWR SM-500 ? . . . . .

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1163491' date='Mar 15 2011, 06:43 PM']I totally agree.[/quote] So to answer Son of Frog's initial question – er - nothing is great or special about them ? I guess the presence of the thread allows you some easy lateral adjustment on where you place the string over the saddle as apposed to a single notched steel barrel ? . . . but on the other hand you can also get a completely smooth un un-notched steel saddle barrel and that would offer infinite lateral string adjustment ! . . . So in the end, and as usual, its all down to practical considerations and probably has very little to do with tone ?

[quote name='paul_5' post='1161308' date='Mar 14 2011, 07:22 AM']from my experience that doesn't look much like knurling. To me they look more ....(ahem) ribbed... that is all. [/quote] I agree, it isn’t knurling . . . . it’s just an example of good old Leo Fender at his most resourceful and practical best ! . . . threaded bar ! I’ve read somewhere that early Fenders often used simple and cheap threaded bar to make the saddles for their instruments. Probably due to nothing more straightforward than it was cheaper (most likely) or easier from a production point of view (second most likely) ? . . Certainly a totally pragmatic low tech solution to the requirements of a saddle ! I think threaded bar saddles were commonly used on Telecasters in the early 60’s and I’ve seen them on early 60’s Jazz Basses – not sure if they were ever used on the very early Tele Basses or Precision Basses ? in fact I think the very first fender basses had pressed fibre saddles - I have no idea what they would have performed like from a "tone point of view" but I've never seen them available as an aftermarket upgrade so I think we can conclude they wern't very good ? One things for sure – I bet Leo Fender would have said there’s no difference in tone between using a smooth steel saddle as apposed to a threaded one ? . . . . . . But no doubt there are loads of people who’ll think differently ?

Dosh in the post . . . . . . . thanks again . . . . . . forever in your debt Cheers,

[quote name='neepheid' post='1162839' date='Mar 15 2011, 10:33 AM']Also have a care as to where the truss rod adjusts on the neck you wish to use. If it has heel truss rod access, get a pickguard with the notch cut out at the heel, if it's head access then get one with a plain heel otherwise you have a pointless notch in your pickguard. Up to you, but it would irritate me [/quote] Good point . . . . . I forgot that one ! . . . . . yes . . . . . some research will be required to get that right !

There are two issues really. 1. As some other contributors have highlighted, the screw holes probably won't line up – indeed there may not even be the same number of screw holes. But this is no problem since, as has already been said, you can fill the existing holes and re-drill to suit your new scratch plate. You would be really unlucky if any of your old holes transpired to be visible when the new plate was in position. But there is a very slight chance that could happen. 2. The other issue is the shape of the end of the neck. I’ve done several similar projects over the years and have been caught out in that some necks have a “flattened” end whilst others have a rounded end. Also the radius at the end of the neck can vary. This seems to depend on where the neck is manufactured. The point here being that your new scratch plate may, or may not, be shaped to mate exactly with the end of your neck. You just need to look very closely at the neck and equally scrutinise the precise shape of your donor USA scratch plate. If they don’t mate properly there will either be a small interference fit and you’ll have to dress back the plate, or alternatively there will be a slight gap – regarding the latter, either that’s an aesthetic problem to you or it isn’t ? – just depends how much of a perfectionist you are ? . . either way it will sound fine . . its just an issue of aesthetics ? The attached photo shows what I mean about the detail of the neck/scratch plate interface - if you look closely you will see that the radius of the scratch plate doesn’t match the radius of the neck and there is a small gap (about 1 mm) between the scratch plate and the neck at the radius. In this case you are looking at an Indonesian squier neck butting against an after market USA precision scratch plate. I had to dress the plate quite a bit to get it to interface as well as this. To me the small gap at the radius is acceptable and you cant notice it from more that about 1 meter away – but on the other hand a “true luthier”, which I definitely am not, would say this is a very very shoddy fit ! ! ! . . so, as I say, it just depends how "perfect" you want your project to look ? [attachment=74814:Neck_Scr...nterface.JPG] Good luck with your project - its great fun creating your own unique instrument.

Many Thanks . . . . . I will check out as suggested. Cheers,

Hi Bass Doc, Just to let you know I've send you a message via the basschat message system. Cheers and thanks again,

Wonderful, Its a deal . . . . . how shall I pay you the Tenner ? If you'd let me have an address I could post the tenner to you first - and on receiopt of that you could send the knobs ? Very many thanks to Bass Doc . . . . . .