fryer

[quote name='obbm' post='1210772' date='Apr 25 2011, 12:31 PM']Firebass into the Epifani UL410 should be fine. Where is it? Are they going to DI you?[/quote] What - not use the Peavey ? It's the Beechstock festival, near High Wycombe. Not sure about the DI - still trying to find out. If we are using that, do I just take the DI from the Firebass ?

Hi, next weekend we are playing at an outdoor charity festival. They have a PA, but we will be using our own amps. I have a Peavey Firebass 700 - 400 w at 4 ohm, 700 at 2 ohm. I have my Epifani UL 410 - 1000 w at 4 ohm, and a spare Peavey 410 cab - 400 w at 4 ohm. I can't use the Firebass at full volume, 'cos I assume it could blow the Peavey cab ? So, do I need a new amp ? If so, what do I get ? Something that could run two differently powered cabs. Or do I get a power amp ? Do I then use the 'DI' output into the power amp ? What power amp could I get that would run the two differently powered cabs ? Thank You for any replies. Richard

[quote name='BottomE' post='1184069' date='Mar 31 2011, 11:03 PM']great name for your band. if i were twenty years younger....[/quote] Aaah, if I was 30 years younger.

Hi, I have recently bought a cheap Hagstrom HB 4 bass. I have just bought a steinberger type bridge, and want to modify the Hagstrom. In the attached, the HB4a is the existing bass. The HB 4b shows the bridge fitted in the correct place for the bridge to keep the scale length, of 30.75". This needs a fair bit to be cut away to allow access to the tuners. The HB 4c shows the new bridge fitted further back, to reduce the amount of wood removal, but would need an extra bridge to keep the same scale. Would this work ?

How are you going to get access to the tuners ?

I have a Hagstrom HB 8 which I use, but I've just bought, cheaply, an HB 4. It looks similar to the HB 8 picture attached, and I was thinking of changing it to a headless. I've ordered a steinberger tuner / bridge, and a thingy for the end of the neck. I'm going to keep the neck where it is, so I will need to remove the wood after the new bridge. It should look something like the attached pdf, What do you think ?

[quote name='dougie' post='1142621' date='Feb 26 2011, 06:14 PM']didnt know what that was so googled it,looks useful.ill read more about it later when this f***ing kids b/day party ends,got 20 of the noisiest,irritating,nosey bastards running round like the cakes been baked with speed rather than flour thanks for the reply [/quote] send me a cake.

They're both atound the same output - what's the difference ?

[quote name='Delberthot' post='1167219' date='Mar 18 2011, 02:43 PM']looking at the website, I think they may be using the same neck for the 4 and 8 string models and possibly using a scarf joint to add whatever headstock is required which would explain the extra width[/quote] Iv'e got an 8, and with the 8 strings it works fine. And it is the same neck. And it doesn't work with the 4. Think I'll have to change the bridge.

[quote name='Happy Jack' post='1166810' date='Mar 18 2011, 10:52 AM']IME I've yet to encounter 20mm spacing! Classic Fender 4-string spacing is 19mm, so that's most Ps and Js. Many 4-strings drop to 18mm, while 5-strings often go to 17mm, or even 16.5mm (although who measures the 0.5mm difference I couldn't tell you). Ricks have close-set strings, similar to Hofner but (from memory) nearer 16mm than 14mm.[/quote] Where did you get that avatar. Is it you ? Thanks for the above, I thought they seamed too wide.

My Hofner has a string spacing at the bridge of 14 mm, which is nice. I've just bought a Hagstrom HB 4, and the spacing is 20 mm, which makes all the strings seam too far apart. I could change the bridge, but the neck would still be too wide. This could be modified, but would be a lot of work. What is a 'normal' spacing ?

PM'd.

Makes my back tingle every time I hear this track. But what's it about ?

Just bought a new / used Hagstrom HB 4. The bottom, E, string seams a bit loose when in tune - the others are ok. Do I need a thinner or thicker gauge string to allow more tension ?

[quote name='Ancient Mariner' post='1154491' date='Mar 8 2011, 09:02 PM']I use a lemon oil from 'Guitarsweet' that I bought at a music show some years back, however their site address doesn't work and a quick google draws a blank. You could try Gerlitz GGH Guitar Honey Fingerboard Treatment - around £3-£4 Whereabouts in Hampshire are you? I do a couple of days a week in Hartney Wintney near Fleet - could lend you my stuff.[/quote] That would be brilliant thank you. I'm in Heckfield, about 4 miles from HW. Richard

[quote name='The Burpster' post='1152162' date='Mar 7 2011, 08:04 AM']get some very thin rigid plastic sheet and cut a u slot in it. The width of your frets. masking tape the closed end (bottom of the U ) to the back of the neck with the the bottom of the U just below where the fret tang ends in the fingerboard wood. Pull the other 2 pieces tight over the finger board and file from the playing surface of the fret down towrds the body of the neck. Filing any other way could loosen the fret. Oh and off to repairs and tech.[/quote] Thanks Mr B. Good point about filing downwards.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='1152066' date='Mar 6 2011, 11:53 PM']Is it a rosewood baord? Sometimes they can dry up and shrink, especially with aircon and central heating. Soaking the board in lemon oil can have a surprisingly dramatic effect. Skimming the ends off then doing it is the even better option.[/quote] Thanks Mr F. Any lemon oil, or is there something specific for this ?

I bought a Hagstrom HB 8 last year, and just started playing it. But the ends of the frets stick out past the fretboard. Not much obviously, but enough to feel when I run my fingers along it. Is it just a matter of filing them down a bit ? What's the best way to protect the wood ?

I had a long break from playing ( not for the same reason ) and started again about 2 years ago. And really enjoying it. Good luck with this audition, but if you don't get it, there'll be others.