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Is the rod is a double bar single end adjustment type like the one in my OLP then I doubt you could produce back bow even if you wanted to.

Really really helpful guy. I bust the truss rod on my OLP and with a load of very helpful guidance from Ou7shined via a technical thread, PMs and even a maple patch in the post (made to order) I managed to replace it and get the bass back to working order. Thanks Ou7shined. You are a great guy and I am extremely gratefull.

That seemed to work. Virtually there I think. Interestingly I seem to have gone over some threshold. All of a sudden the whole neck/string combination feels lighter to me. Very pleased. Just let her settle in for a while and I think the job is complete.

OK. What you suggest makes sense. Will have a go later. (BTW thanks again for the patch. With a bit of sanding it fitted fine and looks pretty good).

Ha. Already shimmed at the bottom of the heel so should I take this out and then keep tightening the rod? Bit worried it might snap again...

Hi. Having replaced the truss rod in my OLP MM3 (snapped it recently) I am now tentatively trying to get the neck relief right using the new truss rod. I am nearly there but getting a little confused (and am a bit worried about going any further as the rod nut is getting harder to turn). The relief is still a little too much and action a little to high for my tastes. If I lower the action any more (at the bridge) I get fret buzz above the 15th (presumably because the bridge is now too low to allow the strings to clear the higher frets). I am guessing less relief (straighter neck) by tightening the using the truss rod more may sort this but worried that it will then cause buzz at the lower frets instead and I dont want to snap it again. Also I am currently using Rotosound Monel flats which are quite stiff so also wondering if they are too much for the neck (think I read somewhere that OLPs dont like heavy strings). As you can tell I am a bit indicisive too. Any suggestions? Ta

Well. Looks like the old girl will soon be back in play soon... Yay! The truss rod is a double bar single action type with a capstan nut (just like a real Stingray I guess). Couldn't find a replacement rod the right length so bought one that was too long from Ebay, removed the wrapping (because the old wrapping was left behind inside glued to the neck) cut the end off to get the right length and got a local welder to re-weld the new ends together. I had to do a bit of fettling of the weld end 'cos it was a bit of a lump (didn't explain properly what I wanted) but managed to reduce it back to the size of the bar and with a bit of a taper so it wouldn't snag on the wrapping in the neck on the way back in. Managed to drive it all the way back in by holding the neck upright with the lubricated rod in a few inches and pointing down (with the capstan nut on the end) and dropping the neck gently and repeatedly (rod first) on a carpeted floor. Took about half an hour to get it all the way in. Lubricated the nut and tightened it up carefully to see if I could straighten the neck and it works (yes!). Now all I need to do is patch the hole I made in the back of the heel (with a piece of maple on it's way from the very helpful Ou7shined) and put it all back together. Very pleased with myself.

I replaced the electronics in my mm3 with an Artec SE2A Active EQ. Big improvement.

Wondering if to get this, reduce it to the right length (by removing about 50mm off the blunt end) and then get it re-welded. [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DOUBLE-BAR-BASS-GUITAR-TRUSS-ROD-640mm-RD001-B-/190584088381?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item2c5fb2673d#ht_4684wt_1185"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DOUBLE-BAR-BASS-GUITAR-TRUSS-ROD-640mm-RD001-B-/190584088381?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item2c5fb2673d#ht_4684wt_1185[/url] I have a vague memory (from a misspent education in engineering) of some treated steel being difficult to weld. Am i getting desperate or is this a sensible approach?

Hi. Appears that the right length rod may be difficult to source. Now wondering what would happen if put one in that is slightly too short (e.g. 20mm). Looks like the old one only just makes it past the first fret anyway (remembering it goes in from the heel end).

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1322402398' post='1450345'] Replied. Stick a couple of bob in the BC coffre when you get it. [/quote]

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1322166627' post='1447560'] If you neaten up that hole into a nice rectangle and give me the dimensions I make you up a maple filler block and post it down to you. [/quote] You have a PM

The Stew Mac one is way too big unfortunately and it seems the old rod left it's wrapping inside the neck (presumably it's stuck to the neck). The Slovak on is exactly the same dimensions so I was thinking I might try and install it without it's wrapping. Hopefully it will drift in OK. BTW. Dimensions are on their way.

Anyone bought from these Slovakian guys? They are the only supplier of MM type (capstan nut) rods I can find. [url="http://shop.sollerguitars.com/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/102/products_id/1441standart--material/ns-580-mm.html"]http://shop.sollergu.../ns-580-mm.html[/url] The allen key type are no good cos there there isnt enough space at the heel end to get an allen key in.

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1322166627' post='1447560'] Well done... now put that fecking lump hammer away. [/quote] Hee hee. It's what we in the South West used to call a Bristol Screwdriver. [quote] If you neaten up that hole into a nice rectangle and give me the dimensions I make you up a maple filler block and post it down to you. [/quote] Wow. That's very kind of you. Woodworking is not a strong point for me. I am way better at making holes than things to go in holes. I will give you some numbers once I am happy with the hole.. [quote] Just a thought - now you have the t/r out, couldn't you just get someone to weld the snapped bit back together? [/quote] Problem is that the thread is snapped inside the first collar. I suspect it would be too hard to weld.

This is the closest I can find. [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/No10b-Dual-type-bass-guitar-truss-rod-600mm-/140594136371#ht_500wt_969"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/No10b-Dual-type-bass-guitar-truss-rod-600mm-/140594136371#ht_500wt_969[/url]

Yay! Managed to get the rod out. Tried to remove the fingerboard but after 30 mins of repeated steaming with an iron I gave up. I notice now that I managed to crack the varnish a little so very glad I stopped. Slightly annoyed that I cut the veneer at the other end so that it would separate from the neck with the fretboard. But hey ho. Lessons learned. Will get back to that later. Decided to open her up at the back of the heel and try to drift the rod out. Used a hand wood drill to find the rod collar and drilled a few more holes further up the heel to provide a decent angle of attack. I first used a sledge on a small screwdriver behind the collar to drift the rod out of the heel. Then the sledge on a mole wrench around the exposed end. Took about an hour of steady hammering (with rests) to get it half way out then it just fell out. Couple of piccys. [url="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/133297/DSC00627.jpg"]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/133297/DSC00627.jpg[/url] [url="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/133297/DSC00628.jpg"]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/133297/DSC00628.jpg[/url] Now I need to find a replacement and see if I can drift the new one back in. It seems to be one of these [url="http://shop.sollerguitars.com/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/102/products_id/1441standart--material/ns-580-mm.html"]http://shop.sollergu.../ns-580-mm.html[/url] Havn't managed to find a UK supplier yet. But before that I need to tidy up the mess I made of the heel and see if I can patch it up with a block of maple (completely new ground for me). May resort to something else if that proves too difficult. The good thing is that it will be hidden so just needs to be tidy and structurally sound. Feeling better about this now.

The iron option is not straightforward as the neck end of the board is trapped under the headstock veneer. [url="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/133297/DSC00578.jpg"]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/133297/DSC00578.jpg[/url] I am now wondering if I might simply be able to pull it out. Assuming I can get a good purchase on it.

OK. Just been to see the Luthier. He reckons 1. It's probably a double action truss rod. 2. The fretboard is probably too thick to steam off myself. 3. The best solution would be to rout down the back of the neck to remove and replace it, then put in a skunk stripe. 4. A DIY solution (assuming the neck is firewood) might be to take a chunk out of the back of the heel to expose the end of the rod and then try and pull or drift it out. I am considering perhaps drilling into the back the same dia as the truss rod groove to see what I can find.

This makes it look really easy. OK, it's a steel guitar with a flat board but I am now wondering if a hair dryer might do the job.

Thanks. Going to see a local luthier tomorrow (anyone heard of Sebastian Pecchia?) to get some advice on repairing it myself. Watch this space!

Due to a broken truss rod (see earlier post) the neck is now off my OLP MM3. Thought I would check the straightness now it is at rest (no tension from strings or truss rod) and it has a definate bow. About at least 1mm of natural relief in the middle using the edge of a steel rule along the complete neck length. That doesnt feel right to me. What should i expect?

Thanks again for all the advice. I have discovered a luthier lives just down the road so going to see him next week to get some advice. Will keep you all posted.

Back to the repair idea. Presumably I only need to separate the Maple veneer from the fretboard and can leave the rest attached to the headstock? Will a steam iron hurt the lacquer?