GreeneKing
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Everything posted by GreeneKing
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I'm fairly upset. I love my BBPH. The playability, tone, EQ, weight, build quality and exclusivity are all great and collectively so much more. I fitted some Newtone strings recently and was having some buzz on the G string when fretted on the 1st 3 frets. I guess the reduced tension of the Newtones just took what was already a very low action a little too low. I went to slacken the trussrod, and it just spins away as loose as you like. Meanwhile the neck relief is almost zero. I've just emailed Kennys Music and I await their reply. I'm absolutely gutted 😥 Peter
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Could I have been the original owner? I sold mine to Chris (Beedster). At the time it was the only maple board one I knew of. I bought it from Promenade Music and kinda wish I hadn't of let it go. Peter
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The tone of the Reverse P: when is it a Good Thing? when is it not?
GreeneKing replied to Munurmunuh's topic in Bass Guitars
If the body size is the same then each bass photo is taken with a different 'zoom' ratio anyway, accounting pretty much for the 12th fret misalignment. Actual measurements from the bridge would have been more useful although less 'pictorial' methinks. -
The tone of the Reverse P: when is it a Good Thing? when is it not?
GreeneKing replied to Munurmunuh's topic in Bass Guitars
That makes sense thank you. P bass aside I tend raise the mids. I was struggling with that preference and my love of P bass tone so now all is well Ears eh! -
The tone of the Reverse P: when is it a Good Thing? when is it not?
GreeneKing replied to Munurmunuh's topic in Bass Guitars
The conventional P bass tone is, to my ears mid scooped. A good convention P (or P?/J solo'd on the P of course) bass has a unique sound and one that I love. Earthy, woody and sort of hollowed out. It makes me feel good. I'll play the bass and smile. The only P I own at present is my Yamaha BBPH with the reverse P. The difference isn't subtle. More balanced mids and a different beast entirely. Clarity, sustain and bite are omnipresent. It isn't really a P bass at all. Given modern electronics and cut and boost EQs a lot can be achieved but the instruments core tone is still important methinks. I have a P bass 'in the wings ;)' Peter -
Yep I missed your post only seeing DannyBuoys where he asks if there's any other than Audere.
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From memory John East pre-amps have an 'active' style blend. Quote: Totally independent active and passive signal paths guarantee completely smooth blend when set to active.
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In my defence Dunlops are pretty bright for flats but perhaps not quite bright enough.
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Enjoy, hopefully. I love mine. Going to switch back to nickel rounds from Dunlop flats though. What was I thinking!
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Absolutely. I sold my 2024 to Chris (Beedster) quite some time ago now. The switch was a little bit hit and miss, something I put down to dirty contacts from lack of use. Something that was resolved by flicking it a few times. It turns out it was defective and Promenade Music sorted it FOC. Not up to the high standard of the bass otherwise methinks.
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Hmmm, is that THE EBMM peach?
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We learn all the time. I hadn't realised that the original Aria SB1000 was so highly rated. Aria have made some great instruments.
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Now sold. -
When I last spoke to John (quite recently) he was trying to source re-chargeable batteries for the P Retro so they aren't not made, just not available at the moment.
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The beauty of the East Uni Pre is that a passive tone can be included giving all the benefits of active/passive with a decent blend.
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A short 30" scale bass that is near new in condition and has been modified tastefully in several respects. Modifications: Schaller Bridge Schaller Tuners A Kiogan wiring loom converting VT and a 3 way pickup selector switch to a VVT configuration with matching Gretsch knobs A thumb rest added between the pickups Gretsch style strap locks This bass plays extremely well and the finish and fretwork are excellent. I do have the original tuners and I'm fairly certain that I can lay my hands on the original bridge too. Possibly the original wiring also. Bathroom scale estimate 8 lbs Strung with new Dunlop flats. I also have the original strings and some black D'Addario tape wounds that I can include. Can be posted at cost but I may remove the neck to do so.
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Just imagine the fun if there was more than one pickup The rear of the neck is stunning.
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And for the next instalment. The grain on the top is lovely and very closely matches the body grain as it was made from the same blank and carefully aligned by Mike.
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I’m having a 32” scale P bass built at the moment. It has a chambered swamp ash body. The process is labour intensive. That’s the cost implication. The body will weigh a little over 2lbs compared to the typical Warmoth body at 4+ to 6+ lbs. There’s a build thread if anyone is interested.
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I've been looking on Warmouth at P bass bodies (full sized) and weights. They don't make the lightest bodies in my experience but for comparison purposes they quote 4+ lbs to over 6. So this body is a half to a third of that weight.
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It's body meets top inside a vacuum bag time: Thank you again Mike for enabling me to share the process.
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I think the big issue is that a one piece neck such as a Fender rarely if ever needs relief forcing into it. A double action trussed of course is designed to do just this if it is needed. If a neck is made very stiff (laminated construction with perhaps stiffer woods used) with extra support added by way of carbon or steel rods etc then the act of adding the frets can cause a slight back bow that stringing up alone doesn't counter.
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I certainly agree with respect to appearance. Thinks neck thru Warwick Thumb circa 1989 and drools...... I'm a little amazed at how the BBPH manages to achieve this 'sing'. In a large part I suspect due to the 3 piece body sandwich with maple at it's core. The attention to fixing the neck to body is a part of this too I'm sure. I did see a photo that hinted at an additional location 'tang' on the neck. Not sure about this though and I don't want to remove my neck to find out.
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Here are the latest updates from Mike yesterday. As an update to the spec I have added a zero fret. I've had a zero fret on at least 3 basses and I firmly approve. I've also asked Mike to make a 2nd pickguard in white (the original is tort). Better to get this done at the time rather than down the line methinks..
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Here's some more progress with photos supplied by Mike and annotated to show the stages of his work: It's great to see so much progress in two days. Peter
