Beedster

Thanks Rabbie much appreciated mate 👍

34 minutes ago, Beedster said:

BTW I looked for off the shelf boards for the 4/4 bass I'm working on and didn't have much luck. Most blanks from decent suppliers only appear to go up to 3/4, although given how much basses vary in size, it might still work https://caswells-strings.co.uk/product/fingerboards-ebony-bass/

Just found this 4/4 board but it ain't cheap https://www.woodbrass.com/en-gb/fingerboard-gewa-4-4-double-bass-fingerboard-ebony-quality-1a-p241917.html

As @JoeEvans says, best bet might be to get it planed and see how it goes 

Thanks Rabbie, much appreciated, it would put my mind at rest if you could check the G is the same, and I'll start measuring at my end 👍

BTW I looked for off the shelf boards for the 4/4 bass I'm working on and didn't have much luck. Most blanks from decent suppliers only appear to go up to 3/4, although given how much basses vary in size, it might still work https://caswells-strings.co.uk/product/fingerboards-ebony-bass/

4 minutes ago, Happy Jack said:

 

Damn! That's what Silvie said. 

 

I'm feeling outvoted here. 😂

 

I assume that the existing fingerboard is (?) glued in place using (?) fish glue or similar. If that's the case then it should be a fairly easy job to remove it from the neck, especially since it doesn't matter if the fingerboard gets damaged in the process.

 

Does anyone have any idea how much a good-quality (stable) replacement fingerboard is likely to cost? On the one hand it's just a shaped slab of (non-CITES) wood; on the other hand, this is DB we're talking about ...

 

Ha ha,. sorry mate  

I assume you're thinking of doing it yourself? The board wood, even shaped blanks, is pretty cheap, it's fitting it and setting it up that's the real challenge as the chances of even quite a well shaped blank being a close fit are slim. While I have no idea how skilled you are in the shed, I'm competent, there are woodworking jobs I can do, and there are those I can't, and I'd put it firmly in the latter, especially as any change in thickness and/or shape will have implications for the bridge and the nut and I wouldn't want to have to reshape those also. I suspect it's a job best left to the pros Jack, others may however be more optimistic 👍

4 minutes ago, Beedster said:

Crikey, that's a but of a shocker Jack. Is it the board only or board and neck that have moved? I'm currently restoring an old German upright and while the board has moved a little the neck itself hasn't. If your's is the same, given the board wood in question has moved so much in so little time, might a new - and possibly more stable - board be an option? 

...either way thinning an already unstable board will likely make it more unstable?

1 minute ago, JoeEvans said:

Is the warping only in the fingerboard, in the unsupported section that runs clear of the neck? Or is the neck itself bent or twisted?

Great minds Joe  

Crikey, that's a but of a shocker Jack. Is it the board only or board and neck that have moved? I'm currently restoring an old German upright and while the board has moved a little the neck itself hasn't. If your's is the same, given the board wood in question has moved so much in so little time, might a new - and possibly more stable - board be an option? 

Hey Rabbie, I get the impression that quite a few folks playing 4/4s use Olivs, so unless they make/used to make a 4/4 set I'm assuming these might do the trick, any chance you could measure them for me, and possibly let me know the playable length also i.e., without silk? No rush mate 👍

4 hours ago, agedhorse said:

I kind of doubt it. I don't know which pins are dropped as to how the adapter is wired. Since I can't find any docs on the original 7 pin wiring diagram, I would be just guessing and there's no need to guess wrong here.

 

All I can find is this information on the 4 button footswitch and 5 pin DIN wiring:

 

 

Many thanks @agedhorse, is this the sort of thing that if I get wrong I've wasted some cash, or if I get wrong I've damaged the amplifier?

Here you go, Fender Fat Finger

https://www.fender.com/en-GB/accessories/miscellaneous/fatfinger-guitar-sustain-enhancer/0992180100.html

....and a chat chat about it being used to correct the same problem as yours on TalkBass

https://www.talkbass.com/threads/fat-finger-works-but-worth-it.1423115/#google_vignette

8 hours ago, Linus27 said:

I have a fretless Musicman Stingray and the G string has little sustain and sounds like it's being choked. If I play certain notes on the D string, the sustain can last 10 seconds or so but when I play the same notes on the G string, the note can die off after 3 or 4 seconds. I've tried 3 different sets of strings from roundwounds, flats and tapewound strings and the results are the same. The bass has a brass nut which I'm not sure if that's standard on a fretless Stingray with a Pau Ferro board.

 

I'm wondering if the issue is with the nut. Anyone got any ideas or had anything similar?

Hi mate, is this a new bass? You know what you're doing with fretless so I'm assuming you've already checked the factors @Doctor J identified? As soon as I hear the words G string and Stingray in the same sentence I'm assuming the classic weak top string problem. I'm going back a very long way, but when I had this I used one of those headstock weights that corrected it to a degree (I forget the name). 

I've put this on eBay and Reverb, very happy to accept cash offers from BCers to save me the pain of both! Also happy to send to Europe 👍

2 hours ago, itu said:

"Other premium features include... strap and papers..."

 

Now that's what I call premium!

 

I do not understand the hype FMI is trying to include into their basic basses, except from marketing and higher price perspective. After all, Sadowsky et al. are in the high end J market with well thought concepts.

They're lucky enough to have a safe marketplace in the shape of US fanboys for all things US Fender 

9 hours ago, Burns-bass said:

Just a weird mish mash of style with no coherence to me. Why the pick-up cover but not a bridge one? Why the modern hi mass bridge but 60s rest? Why the lollipop tuners? Weird.

Absof***inglutely, what a mess. Add a old school BBOT bridge, remove the PUP cover, and it would be passable, at present it all looks like an afterthought as opposed to a plan

3 hours ago, silverfoxnik said:

Hi John, 

 

I'm good thanks - how are you doing? 

 

Yes, funnily enough, I'll be heading south soon.. Probably the weekend of 9/10 March.

 

Are you looking to acquire another Boogie amp by any chance....🤔

 

And does that answer help, or not help (as the case may be)? 😬😁

Now you've made your travels with desirable Boogie gear public I'd watch your step at the service stations en-route Nik 

15 hours ago, Bassfinger said:

The way I approached it...

 

I'm either happy just playing with my mates, and if I wasn't I'd leave and find some more chums to play with.  We'd have a laugh, earn some shekels, but not take it too seriously. We're having fun, and if the fun ever stopper then so would I.

 

Or

 

I'd really go for it, be completely focussed and driven and end up with a decent paying job with a household name act.  That never happened, because I was never driven to do so when I was young enough that it might have happened.

 

 

It's the in between bit, the no man's land between the two, that seems to be the danger zone and I've been fortunate to avoid it and all the bull that seems to go along with it.

Nicely put, my view also 👍

17 minutes ago, solo4652 said:

I'm struggling to fully understand how micing up drums and then feeding them into a desk is going to help with tinnutis. When I suggested musician-grade in-ear protectors, drummer said; "I also already use expensive in ear filtered ear protection and they’re okay but they only muffle the sound and the whole point of monitoring is to improve clarity and also the mix that you’re receiving. The idea is to have a quieter more balanced audio." But he's still going to be pounding away on his acoustic drum kit and making a lot of noise isn't he? That's not going to reduce the overall on-stage sound levels, is it? But, according to him, it isn't about reducing overall sound levels - it's about "improving clarity and,,,,,,,to have a quieter more balanced audio". I'm confused. I did start to read the IEM thread but quickly started to glaze over. 

 

Also - keys player has now decided she would like to have IEM as well as guitarist and drummer.

I assume the drummer just wants to hear a well balanced but lower volume version of what he hears while playing acoustically, ear protectors only do part of this. It's a good idea to my mind, we used to play with a loud drummer who used ear defenders which meant he tended to play even louder, meaning we had to either use use in-ears or risk damaging our hearing. 

Bought a collection of bass bits from Steve, arrived quickly and packed to perfection with great comms (and I should say priced significantly below what they were collectively worth). Great to deal with one of the forum's top geezers, many thanks Steve, I'm sure there'll be more 👍

Tempted to buy this just for the excuse of a drive and a catch-up Nik, even I don't need two though

I've played/owned pretty much every Mesa Boogie unit out there from the 80's monsters through to the current wave of lightweight units and I think the M-Pulse 600 is still my favourite, I've certainly found it the best combination of power, tone, versatility, and usability (the Carbine M6 came a close second). 

Ridiculous how cheap you can get this gear for these days ........ 

On 25/11/2023 at 19:16, Beedster said:

That 1516........... 

 

Nothing will ever sound as good as one of those 👍

^

7 hours ago, agedhorse said:

 

There is one pin that's connected to circuit ground and 4 pins that are pull-down pins connected to the opto-isolators for each function. The footswitch circuit works by connecting each of the function pins to ground which will switch the function. A QUALIFIED tech will be able to identify the correct pins and not damage anything.

Thanks @agedhorse, I assume an off the shelf 7-pin to 5-pin cable's not going to do the job then?

How many watts = how long is a piece of string

As per previous thread, you can never have too many, only too few 👍

7 hours ago, pete.young said:

This any good?   https://www.designacable.com/7-pin-to-5-pin-din-midi-cable-1.html

Thanks Pete, I'm not sure, I guess it depends on how it's connected, @agedhorse @sandy_r any thoughts? 

15 minutes ago, binky_bass said:

We did have a 7 hour bare knuckle fight followed by a battle with Rhodesian fighting sticks. But in the end, all was settled!

Scene in Russ's studio last Thursday....