warwickhunt

Another (identical) cab is the correct answer... regardless of which amp you use.

Just bought a nice 'orange' bass from Dan. All very good; comms, delivery, description etc all spot on. I paid Thursday morning and the bass was in my hands (via courier and good packaging) on Friday before mid-day.

@Phil Starr would you know without me taking my driver out what was OE in the TKS H115? https://www.tks.se/tks.se/_h115.htm

Heretic! Burn him at the stake for speaking falsehoods... however be sure to burn him using G.A.S. as we can't actually afford 'gas'!

Errrrm... don't buy it! If your research shows they are extracting the urine and it is higher than inflation et al, don't buy it and the price will come down... or they'll go bust!

I had an LH1000 for a while... it was a big lump! It didn't take a good 15 seconds or so to power up and you have to be aware if using the Speakon connector and the balance control is at 12:00 you will get less volume than if you had cabs connected to the 1/4 outs! The Bugera will not be anywhere near as powerful in the real world, maybe 500-600w but the difference in perceived output will be negligible.

Like @BigRedX I owned a Lightwave bass and a Zon Sonus equipped with the technology and I have to say it worked flawlessly and I never had any real hassle adjusting it BUT I always felt like I was just waiting for it to fail. Absolutely no reason to think it would glitch or be any worse than a mag or piezo system but it was just too new fangled for me.

A quick search showed that 3 have sold in the last 4 weeks for similar values so it can't be uncommon!

...but it wouldn't be £680! £680 + shipping = £800 + 25% = £1000 So your £680 bass is in reality £1000 and you really have no idea how good it will be when it arrives. This one just sold on ebay for £30 more but you could have picked it up and tried before buying. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165593451318?hash=item268e238b36:g:ThYAAOSwKZBi06zu

If you are only 1 - 1.5mm off what you literally need a piece of thin card almost bordering on thick drawing paper. Actually, looking on my coffee table for reference you'd be thinking along the lines of the cover on a soft back book... Peter V Brett 'The Painted Man' if you must know! LOL In 'the old days' you'd be talking the thickness of a fag packet which might be too thick in your case.

Cardboard. You don't put in the equivalent shim thickness to the amount you want it raised; a thin piece of card 1cm wide and the width of the neck, inserted into the very heel of the pocket will give you more than enough. You aren't trying to raise the whole neck but add a little bit of angle which gives you the extra height over the whole adjustment.

iirc I had a packet from 'guitar' strings... skinnier than the packets for BASS strings.

I know you can tweak stuff on the broader parameters while playing but I'd not tried while it was linked to the PC and you were editing toneprints in edit mode... off to give it a try.

It's such a shame that when you edit the toneprints that you can't listen in real time to the changes.

OK yes I see what you are saying.

That's really helpful, I'll have a look at that today. I've got my Plethora board set so that the compressor is first then the Sub'n'Up, followed by the chorus (using a tweaked version of Tom Hamilton's toneprint). I also have a flanger at the end of the chain but I've not had need to use the subnup with that... that would start to get very 'vibey'.

That is the correct answer! I've no idea why all of these vertical 2x12s have the speakers 'slightly' off-set; it has no aesthetic or acoustic advantage!

So you are going to build this... but 9cm wider?

Oddly enough I'm using the Plethora and I use the chorus with the sub-up (dialled out all the sub down), with a touch of drive on it.

Sorry for the resurrection but your '12 string on a 4' toneprint setting; did you use a particular toneprint as a base to create your own or did you use an out of the box one? I'm looking to replicate as close as possible the 12 string bass (4 bass strings and pairs of strings octaves up) but I'll likely need to offset/detune (subtly) the octave strings.

I've put the slimmest of shims in 2 of my 3 Sandberg basses in order that I can get the action down as low as 'I' want but leaving me with 1mm under the G saddle to set the curve. I can get it as low as most people would want without the shim but I'm finicky and want it my way. When I say the slimmest of shims it is the thinnest card I could find... a piece of paper folded over might have done it. Sandberg are defo not the only ones guilty of this, I've known USA Musicman basses that I've needed to do it to and they are normally great at sorting fit/finish. We won't even mention F3nd3r as I've seen shims from the factory that were as thick as a plastic credit card... in fact I've known folks cut up old store cards to shim some necks.