Al Heeley

i'd add a mild touch of overdrive for a bit of grit, nothing as drastic as a fuzz pedal. That's it.

nice - wish all my wiring was that neat!

Excellent! Wheres the pics?

I spent 2 hours trying to debug a tubescreamer once when I realised I hadn't actually put the op amp chip in the socket. How I laughed. Not.

do you know how to make an audio probe to trace the signal path? [url="http://diy-fever.com/misc/audio-probe/"]http://diy-fever.com/misc/audio-probe/[/url] 9 times out of ten theres a dry solder joint somewhere or acidental grounding, this probe will help you find it faster. Also check all your electrolytic caps are right way round and double check any tranny legs are correct!

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=color_codes Did you check this guide also from SD? The most common wiring for no-name pickups is red and white joined together, green and bare to earth, black is live, as per standard SD colour codes.

Here's the finished mods on the rehoused Bassballs, I found some little 10k trimpots on ebay with thumb-spindles so you can tweak the low and high filter sweep ranges. It's just a case of basically desoldering the 2 mini trim pots from the original pcb, mounting them on the underside of the case, then soldering in some flyers to reconnect as before. [url="http://www.flickr.com/photos/alheeley/7097212587/"][/url] Xgsjx: Don't need to fully understand how the circuits work, its just like following a cooking recipe really . A simple passive low pass filter is just a capacitor and resistor, you can start with the above values and check out the response, or throw in an inductor. Have a look at the active filters as well, they are just a few more components.

ta very much Liam, its a great OD for bass. I'm not organised enough to put all this stuff on my own website, its not a business concern just a hobby really, so most of the stuff made gets posted up on a couple of forums - this noe being the main place. It is indeed an honour to see some of my creations sneaking their way onto kitchen appliance websites

poytune mini.

[quote name='StraightSix' timestamp='1334650084' post='1618982'] It may be that there are many different types of 'lemon oil' and some formulations are different to others. [/quote]I think this was already covered at the start of the thread, or another similar one, it comes up a lot. There's loads of products people sell as lemon oil or Lem-oil. Some are just scented naphtha (lighter fluid), others are mineral oil with scent and colouring, some actually contain lemon oil, some are variants of linseed again with colouring and scent added. I'd tend to favour the plant-oil-based types rather than the naphtha solvent ones, but they won't tell you on the side of the bottle. This is why people feel safer buying something higher priced with a reputable name on the side of the bottle.

never heard that about lemon oil, its mostly solvent or mineral oil mix. Maybe someone draw wrong conclusion... lemon = citric acid and acid corrodes metal. I really wouldn't be worried about this, its not like you leave the frets to soak overnight in the stuff.

wondered if anyone had modded their bassballs with the 2 pcb trim pots mounted externally to adjust bass and treble sweep? If so, was it worthwhile, how did you set them, and do they tend to stay put once zoned in? Is it worth mounting externally or just have a play with them on the pcb to get a bit more bass, then put the back on and leave them alone?

http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=111

yep, small applications of danish oil rubbed well in over a few days, then a good quality beeswax to buff it up, you should be doing this all over the bass twice a year to feed the wood.

im very happy playing with the 7 different sound modes of the digitech purple flanger, for chorus you can't beat an EHX small clone custom

+1 for the light on the side - simple but excellent idea!

small rehousing project today, my seldom-used bassballs has its innards ripped from the derelict and dented old tin cheesebox of its original enclosure and popped into a standard sized enclosure with a sensible power socket. Smaller footprint will help it settle into the next reshuffle of the pedalboard. Once again enclosure graphics plagued by pesky air bubbles trapped beneath the printed film.

Bobs Bitsbox has them for £5.39 with standard size as you say £4.25 + P&P. Wonder why the smaller ones are more expensive? Just need a little slim one to fit along the top of my pedal board, similar size to the polytune mini. http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/boxes.html

Been searching for somewhere to buy a couple of small 1590A - Hammond-type diecast aluminium pedal enclosures at a sensible price, preferably from uk stockist - 92 x 38mm size. Any suggestions or recommendations?

aww, that is sweet Nice line up. Hats off to Max again.

I would think it should make decent enough contact as long as the pcb tracks have not been lacquer-coated to protect them. In this case you would need to scrape off any track coating with the sharp point of a craft knife before wielding your soldering iron. Is the socket likely to experience any mechanical streese in use, from any lead plugged into it? That would be my main concern.

or buying a cheap one and fitting it? will give you a wider tonal range to play with. I agree with icastle on the pots and caps issue, unless you are replacing a scratchy or faulty pot you will get little difference

I think thats the well-trodden flanger

thanks for the review - a balanced opinion and for £30 its hard to go wrong.

[attachment=104548:ff.jpg]heres a little monster veroboard fuzz based loosely on the famous..err, something or other fuzz thing, features 2 nos AC128 olde worlde transistors and a modern one to help out with the drive. This is a crazy beast of a fuzz with some wild matt bellamy-esque potential. Manson built one of these into Matt's custom guitar linked to a chaos pad controller. Now theres a winter bass build project if ever I heard one.