Jimothey

Fair point!!

Thanks but I think that’s taking it a bit too far anyway it’s a bit easier if you just use a wallpaper steamer and a length of soil pipe with some end caps on.....

Yeah the arm relief wasn’t going to be an major issue but as you say the double curvature is the biggest problem and probably way beyond my skills I’ve searched the web and I can’t find any videos or even descriptions on how to veneer a double curvature so instead of wasting money by f*****g it up I think I’ll do something else with it but I can’t decide what as yet.......

I think TBH I’m being a bit optimistic that it will work and look nice I didn’t really want it to be a flat top, the reason why I’m doing it that shape is because I like the rounded look I think I’m either going to go for a pine back with sapele front (which is 15mm thick) so I will be able to round it off no problems or buy a proper drop top?? Or the final alternative is to paint it instead.........

Thanks @Andyjr1515 and @Jabba_the_gut I figured that I wouldn’t be able to bend the veneered around all the corners so my plan is (I’m not quite sure if it will work) looking at the picture of the veneer the lighter colour in it looks to be quite a close match to the Pine I’m using and if it does match quite nicely then I’ll cut the body shape out do the arm relief then with the edges still square veneer the top then round over the edges, so then hopefully it will kind of blend into the body as such I will need to do some tests first to see if there will be any colour difference between the two when I apply the finish which will probably be Hardglaze Or failing that I might just leave it as a flat top........

It’s really not that expensive as it’s paper backed manufactured veneer, it works out to be about £15 for a 1250mm x 310mm roll and £25 for a 2500mm x 310mm roll I didn’t know whether to veneer the back or have Sapele on the back then pine (technically it’ll be Redwood which is lighter than pine and slightly higher on the Janka scale) then veneered on the front?? Im rethinking the body because I’m not overly happy with the jutty out neck pocket (pictured on the previous page) I would prefer it to flow a bit more which would mean stretching the body slightly at the bridge end but 50mm which I still think would look ok proportionally

I agree it would look nice fretless I’m kinda hoping that with the white ebony veneer the finished look would be a bit like this??? (Obviously switching the light for dark and visa-versa)

I, like everyone so far thought it was some kinda of spalted wood but it’s actually Royal (White) Ebony, to be fair it normally a lot more figured but the highly figured stuff is ridiculously expensive

No sorry it’s not spalted maple either, I didn’t even know there was such a thing as what this veneer is advertised as???

No sorry its not Spalted Ash

That’s the one I prefer but I’m not a great lover of sapele in general so it would be using it for using sake if you catch my drift Thanks but I’m in North Wales now I used to be down nearer you in Colchester if I was closer I probably would have taken you up on the offer I‘m now eyeing up this veneer which I think might look quite nice? 10 points for anyone that guesses what veneer it is???

I’m having a slight rethink as the veneer I ordered is on back order and they don’t know when they will be getting anymore Ive found some sapele that I had in the back of my shed so I’m now thinking of recutting the body and laminating it like this?? Or does it look better like this?? I can’t decide.......

I’ve extended the length of it because I wanted to try and shape the end of the underside of the pocket so it wasn’t just square, also I wanted to use 6 neck bolts instead of 4 to help with sustain taking into consideration the body material (I don’t know how much difference it will actually make?)

The neck pocket will work out to be 125mm which will be 25mm longer than on the original body

You may have missed my point slightly but yes that may not have been a good analogy I’m a carpenter and I have 2 different sets of chisels a set of £70 marples and a £200 set of Ashley iles chisel yes the more expensive may hold their edge better but I can do just as good a job with both because it’s my technique that is the most important aspect Anyway I hope you build does everything you want from it and really look forward to the finished article as I really like the thunderbird style.....

I see your point about a decent bass is easier to play I’m not trying to be funny but learning to drive in a Ferrari doesn’t make you a better driver I think that other people on here a proved that a sub £100 Harley Benton Guitar can be just as nice to play as other more expensive basses

The way I look at it is my playing isn’t up to the standard of needing to play a expensive quality bass so when I get better and need a better quality bass (for gigging etc) I can always upgrade them, but like you I’m just having fun doing it my way

The most expensive build I’ve done so far is £90

Thanks I don’t think it looks very Fortress-esque at the moment (maybe when I’ve veneered it and rounded off the body it might) but I’m kinda liking the shape of it I prefer it to the other shape. Hopefully I’ll get the best of both worlds a shortscale feel but without the loose floppy feeling strings..........

I haven’t had chance to do a lot more on it but I thought I’d do a quick mock-up just to see where the bridge is going to sit after @Grangur mentioned about the neck differences I think it’s going to sit ok (That’s 17” to the top E saddle) it will go a bit closer to the neck once I’ve sorted the neck position out.......

Sounds nice (not too sure about the MOP scratchplate?.....) Lots of other people have bought the PB50 and reshaped the headstock tele shaped, Just don’t put a fender logo on it and you’ll be fine..... When I’ve got the money I’m hoping to get a PB50 but I’m planning on doing mine White with Cream pickguard

I would have thought it’s a high gloss poly finish so I reckon as long as you give it a key then you should be able to 2k basecoat then clear over the top of the original But check out @yorks5stringer‘s 51 P Bass custom colour thread I think he painted over the top on his What colour you going for? Good luck and post some pics.....,

Also I’m thinking ‘waste not want not’ as IMO the body was too small for a bass body it will be a good size for an electric guitar so I’m going reuse the body with some old guitar parts I have laying about And see how it turns out.....

Yeah if it was a nice bit of timber I think the profanity filter would have overloaded!! What makes it worse is I’m a carpenter so I normally do measure twice cut once!! Im not overly bothered if I need to recut the body as I didn’t pay for the timber anyway it was left over from a replacement door frame I made for a customer.....

I tried to mark out the neck pocket and pickup cavities but realised quickly that I’ve messed up big time and have cut the body too short at the neck pocket........ So now need to either extend the neck pocket....... Or remake the body completely......