basstone

I’m not sure about Armacab but the Tuffcab paint I’ve used needs a temperature greater than around 10 degrees in order to cure in a reasonable time. I have worked in the winter in my unheated open workshop but used a fan heater to help cure the paint. I’d agree use sacrificial bolts. Wait for the paint to go nearly but not completely dry before removing

Thank you for the explanation, I understand now that it's mainly about the practicalities of applying the paint. I've used Tuffcab on some baffles (as it was all I had around at the time) and agree it's tricky to get a consistent finish on the edges next to the grille batten with the roller. I also fit the port before painting, but as you say it's all hidden behind the grille if one is fitted anyway.

Is it not a good idea only from the perspective of getting a good seal on the drivers or is there another reason?

I fancy having a go with a monitor style cab with the back corners at 45 degrees. I’d make the cab a bit wider and deeper to keep the same internal volume and match the form factor of a 10” cab I have

I’ve had a large tin of tuff cab ( black satin) open for about 5 years and have used it on 2 speaker cabs, several rack cases and 2 large stage risers and it’s still going. I just give it a stir to even out the consistency before use. It’s the best durable professional finish I’ve ever achieved on my projects. It does seem hard to get at the moment though.

That's interesting. I didn't know about that development of the wiring regs and use of sprung fittings. Screws in junction boxes were used for many decades and I'm sure most have never been touched or inspected since. Maybe it is settlement of the conductor particularly if stranded or vibration over long periods of time that causes loosening. As I said in a previous comment in this topic, loose or missing screws in rewireable plugs is one of the most common things I pick up on when PAT testing. Usually the continuity is still good and visual inspection is needed!

Part of the full PAT test includes visual inspection of the plug, flex and body of the item. Personally I wouldn't recommend the tongue test (maybe fun to watch!), although that does work well for PP3 batteries! I do quite a bit of PAT testing of band gear and this is a common fault along with loose screws in rewirable plugs! I also would suggest that everyone should regularly visually inspect all their gear every time they use it.

Fairly common stress point where a cable goes through a gland, also happens on mains cable reels where the cable goes into the centre hub. This shows perfectly why we should regularly inspect our gear for safety or better still get it PAT tested which can also reveal hidden issues before they get seriously dangerous! As to soldering rewireable mains plugs - they're not designed for that and best to either use crimped finger terminals or just twist and double back the stripped conductors. In my experience moulded plugs are much more reliable although do watch out for dodgy oriental imports with insulated earth pins.

How about my Fender telecaster with matching strings! They also came in pink I seem to remember! Made in Japan probably early 2000's I used it in a blues trio with it tuned down a tone as a lot of our tunes were in D and I wanted that low root note. Played through an Ashdown ABM500 with 1 by 15 and 2 by 10 cabs.

Sounds interesting. Can we have some photos when it’s complete?

Is the 25mm batten a finished size. Usually planed timber is smaller than the stated size! The stated size is what the rough timber started as before planing.. I hope that makes sense. Of course the same would apply to the 20mm batten unless the specification uses actual finished sizes! I would also agree with glueing as well as screwing as you get solid contact along the whole length of the batten. most commercial speaker cabs have 2 connectors wired in parallel ( +/- 1s connected together) specifically for adding a second cab.

Good idea also. Velcro is also handy if there are suitable flat smooth surfaces. The dovetail approach appeals as it’s easy to extend the idea to different cabs

I really like this idea. I can see an application for an amp on top of a tilted cab to stop it sliding off. I often tilt my small cab on a small stand on a small stage!