Dunno. Mine is a k10.2
However, no - absolutely wouldn’t be the same. Like most speakers it’s about projection. The k10.2 will project a low B (and relative harmonics) to about 2 or 3 metres out - beyond that it’s woolly and faint.
The 2x10 as you will know seems to get better the further away you are from it...
As a monitor the k10.2 is good enough for the intended purpose. And like most things, it’s a compromise. It’s light, small, agile and multi-purpose. It’s also not as good at reproducing a low B as a 2x10 - but that wouldn’t influence my choice between a 4 or a 5 string at all.. my choice there is based on my personal technique/mood/feel/playing context etc.
If you go onto a guitar forum and ask whether a Les Paul or a strat is better the universal reply will be “at what?”
@Al Krow My 1200w Vanderkley 2x10 can handle a low B perfectly well - if I needed an on stage solution that was there for proper backline projection.
I only use the QSC when it’s for my monitoring only and it’s output goes to full PA - believe me, I’ve yet to come across a PA with bass subs that couldn’t......
I have an AVRI P (which I’m thinking of get rid of) and the neck is proper old school 60s - wide nut and really slim front to back.
For me, it’s part of the feel - but I know what you mean, and feel is definitely important.
Could be. Dunno. Yes. Maybe. It might actually be the combination of the body shape and the thin neck.
I have an ibanez with a 38mm nut and it’s great. Love it. Fairly regular body shape tho.
I’m a Precision Guy.
I have a few of them, I love the sound and I love the look.
I tried Jazz bass after Jazz bass trying desperately to like one. I used to think it was the body shape and the thin nut.
But over the last few weeks I’ve played a few non-Jazz basses with thin nuts and odd body shapes.
What gives? Am I just weird?
On a practical and serious note, I wouldn’t change the bridge on my 64 Precision - not just for value/authenticity reasons, but because the threaded barrel saddles make adjusting string position really easy.
6 pages in and nobody has yet definitively stated who are the “best pro-players” let alone whether in percentage terms they play 4 strings more than any other strings
They are lightweight. And they seem to be as good as the regular full price ones (screws excepting).
Job two is probably the one I dislike the most - fitting strap buttons. The idea of drilling into a nicely finished body is not my favourite at all.
However, I have a routine. Masking tape - mark up the position with a sharpie. Use a good drill bit and don’t go too deep. When screwing in, I apply some soap. In fact, I have a bar of dove in my drawer for such occasions. Rub the screw in the soap and don’t be sparing! It goes in so much easier - less chance of splitting the wood too.
And here’s the result:
They are Dunlop straplocks - I use them as for gigging I like the straplocks on my mono strap and they are dual purpose just in case.
The trials and tribulations of a partscaster builder. Lol.
After finishing work I decided to do a few small “minor jobs”
Job one was to fit these:
They are cheapo “licenced by” ones - but they look ok:
What they don’t tell you is that the screws are made of licenced cheese...
It wasn’t even like I was tightening them too much - just snapped clean off, leaving me with a bugger of a job to remove it and make good. Doh. Oh, and I had to find another matching screw...
Agreed. I’ve done quite a few partscasters and they have all had an element of “not available in the mainstream” about them.
For this one, I tried long and hard to find what I was after - and when it clearly didn’t exist, I decided to do my own.
I would highly recommend it to anyone who might be wavering - it’s not hard and the results always feel like more than you’ve actually spent. I’d have happily paid £800+ for a MiM version of what I’m building - but in the main it’s made in the U.K.!