fleabag

Without the TSP's of your intented 10" driver, the modelling just wont work in the software. Have you any ideas of drivers yet ? You could try Blue Aran for Beyma drivers. They're pretty damn good. I;ve used 4 of the 10" drivers before in a couple of 2x10 cabs, helped by the speaker gurus on Bass chat

I thought Kay was a catalogue company, like Freemans and others. Days of old. I remember my mum used those catalogues. They sold just about everything

Why ? To make a headless ? No thanks. I hate headless basses.

It's a Precision neck, but with a slimmer profile

Bluddy well done sir. Keep up the good work. I'm starting to put some Lira into the piggybank

The seller needs his own neck shimming

A heat gun will work, but is fraught with danger. The difference between the layer of paint coming off and a big burn mark on the body is fine line. Dont try and and do it fast with the gun too close. Take it easy, be careful how you scrape off the melting paint. Scraper used forwards is easy to put a dirty great gouge in the wood. Better to use the scraper backwards. Just IMO, of course. The luthier guys here might have much better info

I've done the same to any cabs or combos i;ve owned that have weighed a fair bit. I definately went for rubber, otherwise they're mentally loud on pavements and concrete. I used the the style with mount plate and 4 screw holes, as they're a doddle to fit. 75mm is a good choice for size too.

Absolutely. He's a fabulous player no matter what he plays on.

Loving it. What a beast 🦖

I meant Lira .

If Oak is deemed as a tool blunter, what about Lignum Vitae ... i've heard that its the hardest / densest wood going and actually sinks if put in water

Looking like a million $$$$$ already 🤩

Isnt Limba also known as Korina ? Just curious. I think there's black and white Korina

That Oak ! Lovely

Although poor quality, i still see no fretlines, and with the best will in the world, it's hard to make old fretlines disappear , after been ripped out

What are those 2 rectangular patches at body end of the fretboard ? They look a little bit like brass

I was thinking the same, but AFAIK, Andy didnt have a full width piece ( or matched 2 piece ) Purple H to cover the whole front. I would have gone for that otherwise. Still, that Purple sandwich is going to look stupendous.

You have made a mistake by assuming 10's have " quicker response " as you call it. There's no such thing. It depends entirely on the manufacturer as to what any speaker reproduces and how it does that. You can get flabby 10's and tight 15's and so on. Surely you will only be changing the cabs because of the tone you desire. Only 7 kg ( 3.5kg per cab ) is not worthing dumping your MB cabs for. Tone wise, if you prefer Bergs, then that is the best reason to change. If the Bergs were half the weight, i could understand , but they're not half the weight. Stacking vertical is your best option for dispersion and getting the cabs nearer your ear. Adding extra cabs of identical nature , or removing indentical cabs, ususally affects the amount of air you can shift , rather then gaining or losing bottom end.

The 130 TNT is an 80 watt combo, unless you add a 2nd 8 ohm cab.

I'd say the same as the OP. No old fretlines, so they weren't defretted. There's no epoxy coating either. The shine is just down to years of playing which ended up putting a vague shine on the board. Stage lights will make it look shinier than it is

Not sure why, but it reminds me a tad of an old Burns Bison thats had some very * tasty mods done * Did i say tasty ? Beg your pardon. I meant utter shyte

Thats my man. Show it who's boss

Its hard to imagine, looking at the thickness of the purple on sapele, how it could move at all, let alone curve. As a layman, i'd say if it was that easy for the glued pieces to curve one way, a vicious clamping could turn it back from whence it came