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  1. samhay

    What router do you use?

    That Dewalt is probably a nice bit of kit, but quite expensive for a 1/4" router. In my opinion, you could happily use 2 routers to build solid body bass/guitars. A big 1/2" router is good for routing the final body outline with a template and doing the trussrod channel. A smaller 1/4" router is great for pickup and neck cavities, binding, etc. You can use a big 1/2" router for the smaller jobs, but they are big, heavy and most people are scared of them. They are a good choice if you are burly, are going to put them in a router table, or have other uses for a router - maybe you want to also build furniture, do DIY, etc. 1/4" routers are much easier to handle for finer tasks and can be pushed to to body outlines and truss rod channels at a pinch. They are perhaps a safer choice for a 'first' router. Bosch 1/4" routers seem to be popular with luthiers, and Stewmac sell one of these. [Edit, I see this was mentioned earlier. In fairness, the Bosch routers are a lot cheaper than the Dewalt recommended, which may explain the popularity]. If you want a big (1/2") no-nonsense router that is 'trade' quality, a relatively cheap option is the Hitachi M12VE/ . I have one of these, and can testify it is a beast. Dust collection is pretty terrible, but not a problem if you put it in a table, which most people do. Above table adjustment requires a router raizer or lift, which isn't ideal.
  2. samhay

    Blade Sharpening, a Professional Approach

    Thanks for taking the time to write this all down. The only pulling backwards on the stones techniques is bringing back distant memories. Must give it a try. Do you ever use honing compound at the end?
  3. There is a fairly common type of pickup designed to mount to the end of the fretboard of an acoustic archtop guitar. One example: https://www.stewmac.com/Pickups_and_Electronics/Pickups/Electric_Guitar_Pickups/Kent_Armstrong_Suspended_Jazz_Humbucker.html You can bend the mounting arms to account for some variation in the width of the fretboard, but this may not be enough to fit. Also, while it should be designed to have a pretty good bass response, it is a guitar pickup.
  4. samhay

    The Les Paul Twins

    >You're a dream!!! Thank you How did you find that? Their website pages are number sequentially, so it wasn't difficult. I like the way you shield the cable rout - very slick. Do you get good electrical conductivity between the foil on the top and bottom?
  5. samhay

    The Les Paul Twins

    Looks like these are coming along nicely. Thanks for the pointer to the TalkBass thread. Hadn't seen the new Rocklite rosewood alternative, which looks very cool. Also, if you are looking for the 'hidden' Rocklite page, try: https://www.rocklite.co.uk/phdi/p1.nsf/supppages/1848?opendocument&part=9
  6. samhay

    F****r AE Precision build - Final PICS added!

    Happy to help. A sharp plane is a fine thing, regardless of how big it is. And a little time spent building jigs is time well spent.
  7. samhay

    F****r AE Precision build - Final PICS added!

    [quote name='honza992' timestamp='1503742527' post='3360635'] Alternatively I've already got a number 4 bench plane. How good a job could that do on jointing the two body halves? Of course I still have to learn to use that one properly..... [/quote] A No. 4 is a good size for jointing using a shooting board.
  8. samhay

    Navarone.45-43"multiscale headless

    With reference to this photo: What happens if you slip and only push on the right handle of the router?
  9. samhay

    Navarone.45-43"multiscale headless

    Please excuse the ascii art. Edit - that didn't work. Will upload a picture: [url="https://www.dropbox.com/s/svh7qltx59uqpx6/twist.png?dl=0"]https://www.dropbox..../twist.png?dl=0[/url] (please forgive the spelling). If you do not have the metal rods connected to the router base square / at 90 degree with the rails in your jig, the angle will not be what you calculated.
  10. samhay

    Navarone.45-43"multiscale headless

    I like the jig, but what keeps the router square to the two side rails? If it rotates about the spindle axis, you will change the angle. I guess the trick is also to get the neck blank centered in the correct place so you have 0 degree twist at the correct fret position? I assume this is your inspiration? [url="http://littleguitarworks.com/torzal-natural-twist/"]http://littleguitarw...-natural-twist/[/url]
  11. A further tweak to the Stanley blade scrapper technique - which is what I would try first - is to add a bur. See here: http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Finish/RazorScrape/razorscrape1.html
  12. samhay

    Fretless Intonation Adjustment

    Are you tuning to the harmonic at the 12th fret?
  13. samhay

    HPF 12db vs 24db/Oct

    >Thing is, despite the numbers, is there likely to be much of an audible difference between the two approaches in the average playing situation? I expect it very much depends on the rest of your kit. Do you play 5 string? If so, 12 db down on the B1 fundamental is going to be audible. If you play with a lot of dirt, you will probably find that much HP filtering will clean up your tone significantly. Even if you don't use either, you may get significant improvement in tone if your amp and/or cab(s) are struggling.
  14. samhay

    Finished! A Bridge Too Far?

    ^That all makes sense. Why that's not on the website escapes me. John's potentiometer suggestions of 5k blend, 25k volume seem quite sensible, so that's what I would use. You may find it easier to get hold of 4.7k and 22k pots. These will work fine too.
  15. samhay

    Finished! A Bridge Too Far?

    [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1495111495' post='3301356'] Oh...that's interesting, samhay. How do you get the blend? I assumed you would blend between the piezo pre output and the mixer output. Is it just a single pot off the mixer output? The PDF on the web site isn't overly clear.... [/quote] Indeed, the MPM01 'detailed' information sheet is pretty poor. I would expect input and output impedance and some suggested wiring schemes at a minimum. (John - if you are listening...). Sound like you may have this covered now though. The MPM01 page confirms that 'Outputs can be mixed with the addition of a simple single gang blend pot.' I assume that both the mixer and piezo outputs are low-impedance. The pictures of the unit show an 8 pin IC, which I assume is a dual op-amp, which would almost certainly be configured this way. I would try a small-ish value pot - maybe try 10k - wired with lug 1 to the mixer output, lug 3 to the piezo output (or vice versa) and lug 2 connect to lug 3 of the volume pot. I would then use a 100k pot for the volume. You could scale these values up, but the key is to keep the mix pot much smaller resistance that the volume pot. The problem you will have is that the tone control won't work very well if wired as for a passive bass - i.e from lug 3 (or 2) of volume pot. However, if you don't have room for a tone control anyway, then that problem is solved.