mdc

Hi, manual is still available from QSC website, try this [url="http://qscservice.com/files/8013/6329/6136/plxmnl.pdf"]http://qscservice.co...6136/plxmnl.pdf[/url] cheers

Hi Chris In general you want a nice strong low-noise signal at the input of any stage which has gain, as everything which is fed in will be amplified by the same amount, including any noise present. Provided the instrument pre-amp itself isn't clipping (get your gtr/mando/banjo player to play as loud as possible in the sound check to make sure) you can always reduce the signal level at the mixer input. As regards different parts of your PA system, ideally you would set all the input levels so that everything in the signal path from mixer input through to power amp clips at the same point, to achieve maximum clean output with minimum noise. If you had already set the input level of your power amp so that it clipped at the same point as your mixer output, then anything you put in between should have unity gain to maintain your gain structure - however the thing you've inserted (GEQ, whatever) would also need to be set up so that it clipped at the same point. If all the units operate at the same sensitivity standard (i.e. 'pro' or 'consumer') and they all have decent headroom, it should be easy to set everything up together. It's often neater to put things like external GEQ on a mixer fx send/return rather than in series with the main output as it's more flexible and it's one less thing to go wrong in your main signal chain - if something goes wrong it's easier to bypass an fx loop than start unplugging cables. Hope this helps a bit Mike

I have been using one of these for a few years and it's always produced plenty of volume and handled low notes really well. I have used it with a 20-piece concert band, indoors & out, and for these gigs I generally have the bass fully up on my 5 string and the bass on the combo full up as well - however I only ever use the 'clean' setting and I've never tried to run it absolutely flat out. The only time I can remember it distorting was something to do with the compressor setting - other than that it's been fine, rich and clear down to low B. In fact the band bought one as well and the performance is identical as far as I can tell. Happy to make any further checks for you if it will help. Cheers.... Mike

That was quick! Gone to Kev.

Removed from a bass I bought a couple of weeks back, dealer had fitted them so I assume they were new, and I haven't played them. Not for me, anyone want them? Not entirely sure what they are but they feel like nickel, measure 45 65 80 100 130 and they were trimmed for a Stingray 5.

[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Chris, you don't say if you are using an external crossover or the ones built in to the amps - if you want to experiment with varying degrees of overlap between subs & tops then a single crossover point may not give you enough options unless you can try different filter slopes. A good starting point might be to use the filters in the amps which I think have fairly gentle slopes - on all amp channels which are driving subs set your filter switch to 'subwoofer' and all those driving tops to 'low cut' and you can adjust the frequency on each anywhere between 25 and 150Hz. If the tops sound thin just double-check you haven't got the low cut filter in and the freq control all the way up. Personally I hardly ever run subs up to 120Hz, with those 15" tops I'd be thinking around 90 to 100Hz but you need to find out what works best for you. Cheers, Mike. [/font][/size]

Chris, I reckon your amps and speakers are a good match. You don't say if your crossover has a built-in limiter but if it does then (by my calcs) you'd set it at 3.22dBu for the S115V and 5.27dBu for the subs and then you can run the amp inputs fully up - that's if you want to stay within the RMS speaker ratings. For running at 'program' the values would be 6.23dBu and 8.28dBu respectively. That's based on RMS ratings of your speakers being half the program figures (e.g. 250W in the case of the S115V), and P7000 amp gain of 32dB according to the spec. Bear in mind that wherever you set the amp input controls, you can still increase the input level (and therefore the output level up to the max the amp will produce) by sending more to it, e.g. by turning up the mixer output. And +1 for aux fed subs... Hope this helps. Mike

Mark bought my two BB405s recently - what a lovely guy to deal with, absolutely straightforward and highly recommended.

Replied & completed, thanks

5 string set of Roto Bass 45, 65, 85, 105, 125 nickel rounds. Local music store ordered me a set with a .125 B string instead of the stock 130 as I fancied trying something cheaper than my usual DR Sunbeams. Unfortunately these were on and off the bass again in under ten minutes. Two strings have been trimmed to suit a Stingray 4+1 layout so should be ok for anything similar. Back in original packet, if these are your thing then you're welcome to them. Cheers Mike

I'm sure you're right Chris, the SRM 350 only has a handle on one side. Mike

Completely agree with the last post – most times one sub will sound as good as two, but a pair of compact subs make very good stands for your top speakers and usually have a smaller footprint than tripods. Best thing is to borrow or hire one, and see how you get on. Your P7000 amps should be good for driving almost any passive subs at moderate volumes, and it’s worth experimenting (a bit) with different crossover frequencies and slopes, especially as your SV115s have a reasonable mid/bass performance if I remember right . The Yammie SW115V might be a good place to start – and I think your amps have onboard processing specially for the Club Series speakers.

Hey Mark, glad you like the basses - always good to see them go to a good home, and it looks like Andy has done a good job for you. I'd never hesitate to recommend Andy to anyone - I've known him since the seventies when we played on the same pub circuit, and over the years he's performed several miracles on various instruments of mine. The most recent was a horribly twisted Stingray 5 neck where the truss rod had torn loose at the nut end at some point during two years in storage, and looked utterly beyond repair; Andy took a look and said he would 'see what he could do, mate' and the bass is now playing beautifully.