AngelLaHash

I used to use a kind of rubber like you find in them pens you can rub out Dark black/gray, but most rubbers should get the green off What we use in circuits when designing them But isn't it like eating the copper, I kniw I got a old circuit and its lime green and no track.

The down sides would be copper oxidise and fluffy green And I always got nagged to earth every bit of ,metal but was warned that a faulty amp can send power up the earth line I've not seen that but I'm a noobie to such things happening

as i dont have any fancy lable system on my Tablet software, i just marked Neck/Bridge as 1nH/2nH The Push/Pull has been shown as 2x2P2T switches UP in Series (Bridge to Neck and then using the Blend as a Volume [only way I could figure it out] Down in Parallel with the Blend Dual Pots 500K but values are up to you, just uses that values to show the difference between the Pots Then goes in to a Tone Pot (shown by the 300K and followed by a 47nF, again you can pick your own values) Finally a Volume (Shown by a 250K Pot) the X is just the output {i dont have a jack plug icon}

to me that sounded like a damaged track on the POT Neepheid. Ive tried to copy the G&L Bass tone (treb being standard really) but i used a B500K and it only seems to have MAX or NOT What seems logical to me, MAX its shorting out the CAP and as soon as you drop it down it finds the cap a easy way to get by. Wonder if i increasted the Cap as it moves along, 500K with a 4n4F from 10-8, then up to 5n6 or 6n2F.. Ill have a play on that. If it is the case then would you be better off with a Hexadecimal Switch or a 1P12T and drop the Pot all together. i went off subject again soz

well you could of used Silver Conductive Paint but that would been Well Dear Or there is SLUG TAP that is COPPER TAPE.. If you the Faraday Cage to be near Zero then put in more Points to earth all around the PickGuard and inside the guitar as it has to be on all Sides other wise waves can get in. But what i meant is when you needed help Ghost Bass come to help QUICK 40min quick.. with a suggestion ah ignore this, im greatful to Ghost Bass for there quick speed at trying to help any way

you converting to a Jazz to a P/J Bass If so then it should all fit .. yes you got to expand the Neck Pickup to fit a P-Bass Pickups. I think that the Top Pickup in the P-Bass is about in line with the Jazz Pickup placing

well ill say it.. Thanks Ghost Bass, nice and simple way of doing it. As Quiet as a DEAD MOUSE!

It should limit the top freq you get And sadly the rest of the saying Fools seldom differ

Its your sound/tone so will be a bit different, more the case that you like it I've played around with multi tone pots/switching and its very hard for me to hear the difference The tone controls more just cut off the top of the frequency, Mine is A500K with 0-100nF cap in 2nF steps, but to hear the differences is very hard Would love to hook it us to oscilloscope or one of the 3d graphic eq too see it

[IMG]http://cdn.seymourduncan.com/images/support/schematics/std_pbass.jpg[/IMG] I'm not sure what you are asking, but I could read you wanted a circuit diagram for a p-bass, there isn't much difference between them all. If you can't find the problem then, map out what you have done with any markings of pots and values of parts. And post it, we'll see if anyone can help then.

[IMG]http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m3e66-RUtNTfJoGU062OYag.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.cedmagic.com/tech-info/rca-tv-remote/07-desoldering-braid.jpg[/IMG] Well without cutting the case, ultra mini toggle switch with wires linking and a nut holding it in place We can turn the switch 90°/180°

Way to get 4 Tone selections: A1M pot.. open it up and cut a Line down the middle Making it TWO TRACKS (2xA500K) Middle leg to the Pickups as normal and the outer legs to the Middle Pins and ever side of the Push/Pull Switch then have 100nF and 47nF on the bottom of the Push/Pull Switch and 22nF and 10nF on the top of the Push/Pull Switch then tie all the legs together and to ground. Turn one way you got 100nF (Center being 0) and turn the other you got 47nF Pull the Switch up and now you got 22nF one side and 10nF the other SCRUB ALL THAT.. I forgot that A500K was LOG It would only work with a B1K Lin so if you would be happy with that then this should work and ill knock up a demo Lin thats been made in to a LOG with the use of a Resisters, that would mean have a DUAL Pot of 1M and Painted with conductive paints on Left for one and the other right . still working on this .. seems for a dual POT to cut the inner ring is a bit more complex with the 2nd Pot as the Layout of the common pin is a bit different 47nF Cap.. i think i brought some Paper/Oil Russian Caps for cheaper than that.. shocked they have sold so many of them Should go to RS Components a bit more

Should make it sound a bit basser Could use a push/pull pot and switch between two values Think max I could do is four with no hole drilling But that would be (100, 47, 22 and 10nF) with a A1M pot on a push pull switch

That was why I went in genral dis As the board suggested music type talk Guess bass only .. take my sorry bot back to start land

Wonder if any one would be Willing to change there B500K Volume Pot in a Strat for a Demo one with a Bleed on it Basically im looking for someone to test a Bleed Pot for me (as i seem to be Nearly Tone Deaf and find it hard to hear differences)

If you need any help, then take snaps.. so could see the space and the switch if needs replacing

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1372775836' post='2129795'] [/size] [size=4]+2 Not a clue! Great pics, though. [/size] [/quote] Just look it as a variable cap (so every turn adds 220pF each turn) If I was doing this for someone else 27, 13, 6.8 & 3.3nF with a push pull switch on the volume with a 47nF Should give you 3.3-97nF ( so includes the fav values 100, 50, 47, 33, 22 & 10nF) Extra switch so could do like I did, and move the jack in to the body. <this is without the megatone bit> <the resisters at the end dose give it a extra touch, I like> You could use it like the megatone, but only the high values

Should do, just need correct doc to say you brought it and already paid the tax, As tax dept break ya legs then ask for the money and no sorries when wrong

Pricing, its all about catchment. Guitar cap £2+ for one Caps 100 for £2 Any thing like that again just ask around, I think one of us would sooner give you it that pay them prices

I was using ac128 as that was what I had to hand, I scrapped it in the end was a pain.but I do have some germ diodes on order will come back to it later [Img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/978020_10200192632683354_791635556_o.jpg[/IMG]

Think need to know the space working with. The space between board and case and how its wired in. Flipping it 180 shouldn't do any thing. (If PCB mounted) Blocking the hole or using it to bring cables out to a switch placed else were If its not you have room, could move it 90/180 if not PCB mounted A ultra mini 2P2T/1P2T might fit and give you the room to draw cables off to move the switch

Ok This would be the DREAM Circuit but i dont have a 2nd Hex that dose 0-15, i seem to have 1-15 what i guess in effect changes the start possition from 0-5 to 5-10 [url="http://www.strat-talk.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=2626&pictureid=17054"]http://www.strat-tal...pictureid=17054[/url] I had to show the HEX Switch as 4xSwitchies lined up, thats basically how a Hex Switch work you can pick any of the 4 Switchs to be open/close. the 3x2D2T switches have been linked like that just because i dont have a 1P4T The 2x2P2T at the top left are the PUSH/PULL on the TONE *This circuit should let you pick from 0-100nF in 150pF steps about, lets you switch between a Megatone/Tone* and the 1x2P2T to bring in the 47nF cap is a PUSH/PULL on the Volume At the moment the 2nd Hex is just a 1P4T Switch, Ill draw it later the circuit *mine will do 0-15nF in 330pF and then 0-100nF in 2nF steps* ---- Two Circuits 1) Normal Tone 2) MegaTone So liked them together, so i could "pull the knob" to flip between them. The MegaTone uses a 1P12T switch, so i figured ill use a HEX with less Caps and a bit more of a range Two Hex gets a BIG range with Lower Stepups One Hex and 1P4T it was a Toggle (on/on/on) with a Push/Pull to set it in a High part. ---- On listening to the Demo Video, i think that one HEX and 1P4T will do nice The 2x2P2T side by side are Push Pull Switchs on the Tone/Volume Pots And the 3x2P2T are to show a 1P4T switch (i need a better circuit designer) the 4x1P1T is to Show a Hex Switch (any of these switchs can be turned on, to make a combination) Had to use a SineWave to show a Pickups should be, and a Load X on for the output. Well the Computer says Im getting Feedback on my 1P4T with the Caps.. as it is really a switch i was just using as a 1P4T, i figured ill just use it as a 2P4T and it sorts that problem.. Now seems to be some feedback on the HEX switch :'(

Well managed to get hold of a Good Binary Switch. P-Bass that hooks on to a Push/Pull Switch and changed from Tone Pot (A500K) or going direct to the Binary Switch./ Push/Pull (Stepup) ---The other side of the PushPull Switch has a 1M5 Resisters going to a 1P4T (StepUp Rotary) The Binary Switch then goes on to TWO lots of Caps [330p, 660p, 1n2 and 2n4]. and [2n, 4n, 8n & 16n] What then Leads on to a Push/Pull (Stepup) Switch (selects between the two lots of Caps) before moving on to 1P4T (StepUp Rotary) for the stepups [5n, 10n,15n & N/C] and [32n, 64n. 96n & N/C] before ending up on another 1P4T (Boost Rotary) with [150K, 15K 1k5 & Ground] Giving a Range 0-20nF in 330pF stepup and 0-126nF in 2nF stepup with the Push/Pull Switch gives a option between the Normal Style Tone and this MegaTone with more of a Scope to pick from <I couldnt get the Fuzz to work, i may have FAKE PNP from Germany >

thank you

Design Tech for 3 years done my A-levels in electronics and C&G in Electrical Installations SO YES IS DAM INSULTING Just never worked with INDUCTORS and the Power Supple so I having got a Stable-ISH incoming Power Metal .. Moving Over a Magnet, in a Normaly Copper Coil making Current