AngelLaHash

What's up Mr L? I'm after a true binary switch non of this gray coding naff stuff

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1368534931' post='2078078'] The components have, but the circuit boards they sit on don't. Water, particularly water from a flood, will have impurities in it which can, and generally will, provide a path to a short circuit as soon as they are powered up. The answer is to remove the electronics completely from the bass and do NOT be tempted to power it up as this will definitely destroy something. [/quote] I dont think so, if there is no Protection on the Copper Layers then its DEAD. The Battery is DEAD, as for short circuiting is Not any real Voltage ... Ive not got time at the moment (doing Exams) I'll try and build a Stringray PreAmp LM4250 chip Chuck it in Water for a DAY 24hr + and dry it out.. <never done this before, but ive also not stiched a Mans up together and put 400'000v volts in him> I know the TRACKS will start to go, so can i put some protective layer on that. If it dont work, then ill send all the parts to make the PreAmp, to Hilti. Im Game,

I dont know what to think as most Electicals SHOULD have a Protective Coating from Water, (salt water im not that sure about and standing in Water for long time) If i was cutting corners to make a cheap pickup i wouldn;t pot a protective coating on it, so that Might RUST up over time. I guess the POTS will be rusting (the arms on them and mainly joints) Goes for the switch too then (Basically a PCB board with a Arm that Runs over it, and for good connection i wouldn't put protection on it) PreAmp PCB: that should be SEALED really, just joints might need to be re-done and parts re-placed But on the Cheap, you cut back on Sealing PCBs Body: ANY hole water can get in to wood it will, ie screw holes.. Can only dry it out the best you can without OVER DRYING Metal Work: Ive not see that much RUST on Bridges, but the screws are the first point of Rust .

Well a bit on my work so far, the Binary Switch i got was GRAY-CODING, a 0 here and a 1 there!! So i am looking to get one of them PCB Hex Switches and Screw the PCB with the Switch to the Plate, Well My plan (not the one to take over the world and make all world divisional Leaders wear a bunny suit) is to get a TEST Strat, (yes not a bass but i aint got a bass to play around with like that) and have 3 x 4Bit Hex Switches hooked up to a B500K Dual Volume Pot, Im still working out were to CUT the Pot to make it in to a 3 way Switch 0-3.3, 3.3-6.6 and 6.6-10 Ive done some but never get the cuts just in the right place, (one reason is i had two pots with different common legs) also my Painting of Tracks SUCK, so i have brought a FINE Paint Brush (form a Art shop 99p) and some MicroFeech (Clear Plastic stuff a bit fick) in the hope to make a template, so i just brush over the Template, that is laying on top of the POTS PCB, Looking at the Common Leg and trying to work out were the cuts are needed. I would like to Turn the POT PCB in to a True 2Bit [url="http://www.strat-talk.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=2626&pictureid=16576"]http://www.strat-tal...pictureid=16576[/url] Figure if i could push it to the dam near Max, I could then cut it down to get a nice simple version

can only sugget with the "memory switch" (Im guessing its some kind of binary switch as it dosnt sound like a Lock one like you get with Pedals) COPY LIKE FOR LIKE .. As for removing knobs. i think i did see one guy get a PC Blanking Plate and cut a V in to is.. so he could slide it under the knob and Lift them up (dont go for a cheap blacking plate) the only other things to watch out for is ones with GRUB screams to PIN it on. Im sorry im not much help, but its some thing i guess.. best of luck tho

Right at the Moment, i wired two of these 4bit Cap to a L&G Circuit A500K Treb and B1M etc i think for the Treb the Caps Range from 47,25,12,10 (94-10nF) and for the Bass 4.7, 2.2, 1n, 680pF (8.58-0.68nF) But i just figured, that was for a STRAT and not a BASS I think i can hear a bit of a done difference, but I'm not 100% sure. Ill have to Weg my Tablet up and do a Video Recording (once i figure out why it went dead on me, after soldering in the last cap 680pF) (Rat Nest of Wires going back and forth, and floating connections, i did use different types of Caps to get it a different feel) +++++ Bass for the Bass i cant hear a dam thing with this, so im going back to check the wiring and every thing. and after that, move things around a bit Maybe i shouldnt make it so COMPLEX with having a MegaTone36 in there too <Slaps Self> one step at a time deeer SORRY

well was talking and i guess aint finished the debate with a Ozzy guy about bleeds [url="http://www.strat-talk.com/forum/tech-talk/228422-treb-bleed-values.html"]http://www.strat-tal...eed-values.html[/url] Before the WITCH Burning, Tech Dose Transfer over, this link is more about the SWITCHING than the Values of BLEED and the way it is Bleeding I have tried to look up Bleeds for a Bass to find some values. XXX

It is a dam nice sounding instrument, I did want to get one of the family one (he wants a guitar but dosnt seem all there to me, and i think Drums would be too complex bass i was thinking of myself for him, but getting a nice cheap one and modding it) but this was also what i was looking at (sadly too dear for my budget range. I did look at Pan Drum but i was shocked how dear they were, till i looked at how to make one yourself. Beating out the metals to fine it out. I think with the one in this video, i would want to play around with how it is connected to the Base, dont know why just feel there are some 'effect sounds' to be made with joining them with Springs and Rubber (cant explain it just a vision) to nock the sounds off the sides within. PS please send my regaurds DAN and Im loving the Music.. I think he would suit Messer Chups, they did one album with a theremin player and mainly use a Synth and Bass, but i think he would suit them for one album maybe..

I have been looking for chokes on Motherboards, but they aint that High of a value, i think i have old PSU for a PC I do tend to use them as Power Supplies, 3.3v 5v and 12.. Hooked a ATX connector to a Light Switch to turn it on and some Banana Connectors for the Power supply, I think i got Ground 12+ 12- and 5.5- and 5.5+

`mm you got a good suggestion there The other thing i could do is have two Single Coil Pick ups and Link them in PAR (there normally 2H so drops down to 1H) but you way will be more perment and better test.. ill have ago, think if i dress up as a fuffy bunny and look cute might give me one just to NAFF off!!

Im not MAD, people are WATCHING ME [url="http://mrwhatis.com/lahash-angel.html"]http://mrwhatis.com/lahash-angel.html[/url]

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8vPgo0NLfsc[/media] Before i get a Telling off, its not a BASS CORRECT, but it is Techy and you may want Dual Volume on Bass Was my suggestion but i think its too much pain and kills the whole reason for the CAP in the First place Basically the guy has Volume Pot on Each Pickup When Opening the RED Pickup Fully (Going Direct to Black) and Turning off the BLUE (going to Green EARTH) but Normally the CAP would go around the BLUE Volume and therefore the RED Pickup would Steal the CAP and Steal the Earth that Cap is now Tied to Via the BLUE POT. Any one got any suggestions, NO BATTERIES tho

Has any one done one of these http://www.impossibleband.com/projets-electroniques/megatone/megatone---archive http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=3I62Xfhts9k&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D3I62Xfhts9k The circuit is on the site, get Google to translate if you can't read french I tried it but I couldn't get that much difference sound I think because I still had a tone controls I will try again but, this time so I can flip between the two

I don't know, just a circuit suggested on another site, to have treb/mid/bass never seen any thing like this myself before

Well I look within 50miles (only god knows what I mean after that) But some nice and face looking guitars from a small area

I keep an eye out for cheap guitar I can play with within 50miles And I keep noticing some fancy guitars and most in Rotherham Is there some thing going on there, it isn't that big

This was what i was going to TRY but with the Cost of the Inductor i aint going to bother for some time there is a way of Mixing a BASS with a Treb for a MID If i use this on a STRAT, 3 Picksups, i could cut out the NON Used Pick up and that will give me about 2H Now i can ever Cut that down again and use anotther 2H in PAR, or i would have to Fix the other parts of the circuit up to suit a 2H Inductor, This Circuit MID is a Bass CUT OFF 220K+47nF its the 500KVr+1H+1K God it would be so much simple if i just mash up a Bass Treb

[b]I dont understand what the Resister is doing: Hope that someone else can explain that [/b] [i]I am sorry i Suck on Explaining things[/i], the Diagram of the PIN Layout isnt much good to me, as Ive never worked with a 3Way (Just Strat 5Way and i tend to Number them 1-8, 4/5 the outputs) To me with all them PINS, i think it asks as 2P3T (3 different Pins to Select from and two lots of Switches built in to on) (with a Strat you have 1 Pin and then the 2Pin is MIXED) I Would suggest, finding out what each leg connects up to on Each Stage and work out if its is a 2P3T Switch If it is, then the way i suggest will give you Top Pickup, Both Pickups, and Humbuckle <Sorry for taking 2 days to get back to you, i was working on a Tone Switch not to be beaten> Best way to Check a Pickup when Wired, slapping it with bit LUMP of Metal, you hear a Clunk sound

Ok, Last one as im going MAD Specs: In Order, Cheap 1P2T (On/Off/On) Switch, Smaller than a 2P2T

2P2T (on/on/on) version for the Values 100nF/47nF/22nF # One type of CAP and one Switch, and in ORDER

I have NEVER used a 3Way Guitar Switch, to me it looks like a 2P3T switch with all them connectors <i dont like matching colours, need to know what is top and bottem etc> <use a Resistance Test Meter/Continuity to find out what links to what> --Colours-- Black i would guess is the TOP Picks + side and White is its other end meaning Red for the other Pickup and Green for its other end Black to the POTS, White to one of the Switches Common Red to the other Common and then Green to GROUND On the WHITE side, link two to Ground and the 3rd one to the 3rd link on the other side of the switch Then on the RED side of the Switch, link the Middle Pin to th POTS If you want you can link the FREE leg to GROUND too.

I dont think it might be worth it, it MIGHT be worth it on a L&G Tone Controls with a Switch for the BASS/TREB Treb 22, 15, 10 and 4.7nF Bass 2.2, 1.5, 1nF and the 470pF <same but a /10 lower> Need to get my Worth Bench sorted and GET MOVING <dam Life always get in the way> Wonder if i use a Different TYPE of CAP for each one of the stages Would the sound changes be more Dramatic I got Polyester (Green) and i got a 47nF Paper Oil thing

You make some thing SMALLER/CHEAPER and they still want the OLD WAYS !! mm well i would go for a 100nF (0.1uF) one myself I only did one TONE pot because a P-Bass tend to only have one Smaller SWITCH with a 1P2T, Cheaper too with only be a On/On/On, Will costs less on the CAPS as uses 22nF (0.022uF) Caps and a 82nF (0.082uF) Also i think if you use the middle 22nF (0.022uF) one as a different type than Polyester, MIGHT be able to get a faction different tone from the 104nF (0.1uF) and the 44nF (0.044uF) yes i know its 3nF (0.003uF/3000pF) out of the 47nF (0.047uF) but you do have a 5% tol any way, and i dont think you will notice the diff with a 47nF(0.047uF) and a 44nF(0.044uF) or the 100nF (0.1uF) and the 104nF (0.104uF) --cadfael values-- was suggested to change the 22nF for a 27nf on the far side, and he is right

Sorry i suck on explainging things [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f38/wiring-022-047-caps-switch-980855/"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f38/wiring-022-047-caps-switch-980855/[/url] the way i suggested is the cheapest, smallest too <Smaller Switch, Smaller Caps> Could also get a good range of sounds with Mixing the Cap types too ie Change the 12/15nF for a different type that Polyester (and i dont know why i put 2P2T, it should be 1P2T) The 1P2T or 2P2T (on/off/on) is cheap £1 or less the 2P2T (on/on/on) is £4 give or take a £1 (ahh US) If its the SIZE of the Caps, ie 47nF is the same as a 22+15+10 there all in PAR with each other they are just ADDED UP like Resisters in SERIES, people should use that fact more than just buy a dear 2P2T (On/On/On) Its Bad workmanship <get the Most out of the Min>