AngelLaHash

[quote name='xilddx' timestamp='1369837073' post='2093279'] It might be scary to Angel if he's a bit clueless about wiring and electronics, it sort of sounds like he might be. But if he gets a wiring diagram and experiments a bit he might have some fun. I loved messing with pups and wiring and switching with a guitar I used to have, I made loads of mistakes but the sounds I got in the end were individual and interesting. Takes lots of time though. [/quote] you dont see that as CALLING ME NAMES and SLAGGING ME OFF

wow .. who needs to go to brighton with HAND BAGS LIKE THIS If i ask a Question .. WALK ON BUY GUYS .. this bitchness isnt any thing I like

So what ever one is telling me.. You couldnt tell what is GOOD and a Cheap Nasty Pickup without Wiring it in and try it. well thats scary

I am wondering how to Find the Value of a Pickup. I can put a Ohm Meter around it and get some value of the Copper within the Inductor, I Happen to have a Inductor Meter so can find the Henrys. But i would not know the difference between a Good Branded Pickup and a cheap one from China. I have asked this question in Two Forums now and all i get is cheeky comments. --- So, a BLIND TEST, two pickups, No Markings on ever, but one say a Big Brand, another Cheap from China, without Wiring it all in, can you tell the Difference --- As far as i can tell NO ONE SEEMS TO KNOW

I tried to ask how you measure the Values OHMS !! HENRYS !! I come from DC to AC circuits and Wiring I have used XL=2Pi x f x L But this is a Inductor on its own 2H (it was a strat Pickup) How do i know its any good How can i tell if its a Fake or some thing in BLACK POTTING GLUE or How it compares with REAL Brand Makes

Still thinking of a way to make it within one POT like the TBX, feel tho i could easy copy it with a 1M Dual and a 500K Dual and Mixing the Boards over I dont know what type of Pot the TBX uses, i believe the values are 1M and 500K but i think i read that some were. XXX

Been playing around with Bleed, lol might call it Stigmata Switching Any way, been playing around with parallel [Duncan's Treble Bleed]100K-300K Resister with a 680pF-2nF Caps but wonder what sort of values people have seen and used for Series RC circuits [Kinman's Treble Bleed] 'think last time i touched on the subject of bleeding, i got told off a it was on a strat (Cheap guitar to play around with)' but looking around this site i see some company also uses a switch on the Strat Jack with a BASS BOOST So would like to figure out what they are doing to boost the bass, its a big black box so might be a inductor under that. Villex i think they were call, found them on the Recomend list on this site. very intresting company XXX

Been looking at this TBX control, seems pritty standard. Ive been playing around with G&L Tone Controls what is the same as the TBX just not in one control think they also changed the values, L&G used 500K with 22nF and Bass C1M with 2n2F I can copy the POT i think by mixing two POTS, Dual 500K and a 1M (not sure what they are ABC!, i would guess A500K but i dont know for the 1M as G&L seem to be the only ones to play around with a C1M, but i did read you could use a A500K in place of the C1M on the G&L) But I cant make one with Dual Controls, so how good is it to be able to roll one off and increasing the other. Just thinking DUAL pot each with there own controls, so A500K tap the Centre, so one side has a 500K resister and the other nothing and a switch so you select between the two, would mean one way you would be turning 500K-1M and the other way you would be turning 500K-0, but adding a switch (push/pull volume pot!)

Just thinking out here, B1M Ohm Pot, opened up and SLICED down the middle so got two sides of a B500K One side can have 47nF and the other side say 100nF then to earth with the both of them the Middle is the Input for the Tone Controls <Dont know if it would work on a A1M as i think its two resistance inner ring and a outter ring> Making two Tone Controls, instead of going 0-10, its 0-5 and 5-10 So 0-5 is the range for the 47nF and 5-10 is the range for the 100nF As you cross over it goes to the MAX 500K and down on ever said as it is a B1M it should be Liner Well going to try it out in the morning with a 2p2t switch To give me a mix of 104/49 , 22/10 and 47/22 Values 82/39 , 22/10 and 25/12 If it works'so want to call it the angel split XXX

Could put in a key switch, so you have to turn the key other wire you won't get any sound, but easy to by pass. Other ways barbie pick guitar, no one will nick that. Make it look alarmed with flashing led, like fake burglar alarms do

[url="http://www.impossibleband.com/projets-electroniques/megatone/megatone---archive"]http://www.impossibleband.com/projets-electroniques/megatone/megatone---archive[/url] [url="http://player.vimeo.com/video/32754069"]http://player.vimeo.com/video/32754069 Not 100% what you are after[/url]

Im a Plank, always go and try and push too much in one go. Save time and just trying to fault find on a Bigger Circuit. [url="http://www.impossibleband.com/projets-electroniques/megatone"]http://www.impossibl...niques/megatone[/url] /\ i loved this design and tried to make it simple and ended up making it more complex /\ I mixed it with my own 4bit idear The Fuzz bit didnt work for me on the AC128, I dont think i got it working last time ever. I think It should have a 0-5nF, 5-10nF and 10-15nF with a stepping up of 330pF each turn And a 0-30nF, 32-62nF and 64-94nF with a stepping up of 2nF each turn Now some of the Values of the Higher version is a bit High but still 2nFish Step up (Just a average) I personally cant hear a TONE difference [url="http://player.vimeo.com/video/32754069"]http://player.vimeo.com/video/32754069[/url] The Volume Pot/Switch for a Step Up Was going to show the 4Bit Switch (from Lorlin, a sample they sent me) and the SPIDER of CAPS i put on it but the picture was blurred

what about the Springs on a Strat, for, Moving Metal Part in line with the Pickup Field. < Playing Devils Advertic, ok> Understand that its min effect with a block of metal that isnt moving and thanks to all so far for explaing it

Dose it not add to the field, as it world be in the way I'm not worried, wondering

I got CS Guitars as one of my Fav on YouTube and Facebook, i like how they talk on there videos Any way, they posted this and i asked about the Bridge Pickup being so Near the Bridge With the Magnetic Field Just wonder if any one can express how much Magnetic Field and how each part effects each other Even Pickups should upset each others fields when been Linked in (ie if one end is hanging then its dead) And what effect would the LUMP or Metal of a Bridge have, i guess the Copper Cables under is minimal

[color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]Well it brings a brightness to the sound.[/font][/color] [color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]My Test Guitar[/font][/color] [color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]I Made one Guitar so it was just PICKUPS, Toggle switch (On/Off/On) (Phase/Off/Outer Phase) and 3 Volume Pots B500K[/font][/color] [color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]Bleed Test Rig [/font][/color] [color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]I made it so that the B500K for the Volume Pot (DUAL POT)[/font][/color] [color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]and then attaches to a A500K PAINTED to be a 3 Way switch (off/On/On) (as the second part of the Dual Pot)[/font][/color] [color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]I then hooked up 4Bit Switch Between (range of 0-1nF the Pickups and the Volume Out [/font][/color] [color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]With a 100K Resister and a 200K Var Resister (100K-300K)[/font][/color] [color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]And hooked up to the A500K Painted Pot two more 4Bit Switchs with Caps (0-1nF) and (0-4nF), also added a On/Off/On Switch to turn the bleed off, with another set of Caps on the other side of the Switch. [/font][/color] [color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]I am pleased at how bright it is, but feel the placement of were the Bleed comes in is a bit off. I fell maybe it should be 0-5 for the 680pF, 5-8 for the 820pF and 8-10 for the 1nF, personally. But Binary Switching works very well with this as I am getting to grips with the ways of increasing it by stages. [/font][/color] [color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]<Im moving on, But JohnDH THANK YOU>[/font][/color] [color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]======[/font][/color] [color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]I am going to be moving on to Making it a Part of a Bass now, Not a Bleed but a Multi Tone/MegaTone Switch[/font][/color] [color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]I tried to make a MegaTone Switch as suggestioned on another site by a Nice French [/font][/color] [font="verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif"][size="2"][color="#1a1917"]Last time i tried it i had a Normal Tone and a MegaTone (forgot to read OR)[/color][/size][/font] [font="verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif"][size="2"][color="#1a1917"]So this time i will make a Switch so that i can toggle between the TWO as and when i like[/color][/size][/font] [font="verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif"][size="2"][color="#1a1917"]I do tend to use Push/Pull Pots, so I got Two 2P2T switches there[/color][/size][/font] [font="verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif"][size="2"][color="#1a1917"]By adding Two Toggle Switches to and my 4Bit Switch[/color][/size][/font] [font="verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif"][size="2"][color="#1a1917"]I plan to make a Tone/MegaTone that has a range of 0,680p-15nF (in steps of 330pF) and then 15n-100nF (in steps of 3n3F)[/color][/size][/font] [font="verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif"][size="2"][color="#1a1917"]Also on the MegaTone Switch, had a Fuzz effect what i'll keep in AC128 or AC176 I got to look up which one is witch [/color][/size][/font]

[quote name='BILL POSTERS' timestamp='1368123900' post='2073582'] Tell em your designing audio kit, no harm in asking, who dares wins as Dell says. [/quote] Ive been looking for a binary Switch and keep getting Gray (GAY) Code But i emailed a company asking if they do Binary they sent me there PDF and told me to pick one Told them what one i wanted and how much just got it sent me to for free. As for the Inductors, I am wondering [On a Strat] were it has 3 Pickups and you are normally one using 1-2 at a time if i could Pinch the 3rd one as a Inductor, i think i measured one at 2H tho. So if i could figure out how to change the areas of the MID TONE so that i could use a 2H , i could pinch the Pickup as a Inductor for this circuit.

I cant even figure out were they are!, i do like to (i guess) think i know were someone is if some thing goes wrong

i do tend to tag them with a low bid, but i guess i could get the Bidding software to do my max in one go any way the bidding dont start till the last 20seconds the amount of times no one has bidded right till the last min and then i get out bidding

was suggested GLUE, but that dosnt have colour, the other suggest is BLACK NAIL VARNISH

[quote name='charic' timestamp='1369123502' post='2084975'] So what you're saying is the Talbo has a screw loose? [/quote] [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYOchgBV_ec"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYOchgBV_ec[/url]

Stereo Jack Socket TIP the OUTPUT from the Guitar MID to the [b][i]NEGATIVE side of the Battery [/i][/b] [b][i]BASS to GROUND/EARTH[/i][/b] [b][i]So when a MONO jack is plugged in the NEGATIVE side is attached to EARTH making a Circuit[/i][/b] --- Could put in a Switch that Turns the Battery off Also i did think of a PUSH DOWN small switch under the Battery just poking up in to the Battery Case so when a Battery is placed in it TURN the SWITCH ON, and letting you then Turn on the Pre-Amp other wise just bypassing the Pre-Amp. Switch to turn on and off Push Switch to see if a Battery is there, if no Battery then it wont let you turn on the PreAmp (Would would be the Point any way) Sadly i aint figured a way to WARN you tell you the Battery is low, without Draining the Battery itself. I guess you could put in a Battery Tester, LED/Switch

http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/Nordstrand_Preamps.html From the US, odds on you will have to pay tax From China you don't You would think a country that don't want to pay UK tax would know ways around it Chinese send the item as a gift Say item normally costing £10 sent me as a gift, I pay the person £10 for support. Did have a talk with and american ebayer, but his reply was but its not a gift. So much I would love to buy from the US, because so much a item that costs £10 here is US$10 there with £1:US$1.67

As far as i see things a POT is a POT some may turn better and click but they all do the same thing. I was talking about PreAmp (ie needing a battiery I'm just trying to move on to PreAmp) but no you dont need one I guess Talking 3 Pots (2 Volume for each Pickup and one for Tone) Cap for the Tone (Normally I've been seeing 47nF same as a Strat uses but i did have one that had a 100nF) I can send a 47nF and 100nF [if you like] Jack Socket (Mono) (I've been mainly working with P-Bass because there common and cheap, but i tend to put a Jack on the side) [Ive got a Jack Socket I dont know if you would need a plate around it, i got a '0' and i think i got a Square] Pots mm normally every thing seems to be 500K or 250K, I normally see is B250K/B500K for the Volume and A500K/A250K for the Tone, i should have some around but they ain't CHUNKY (some people seem to have a FETISH for Chunky) Well just tried to look up whats in the guitar, how about looking it this way.. YOU HAVE a BLANK Guitar, its yours and you can do what you want. So saying that you HAVE to have Jazz Pickups Shape of the guitar, after that you got 3 Control knobs and 1 Switch and i think a LED (hay can change that to another switch if you like) also guessing it is ACTIVE GUITAR ie has a 9v Holder. So knowing that any thing you LIKE .. or others can suggest to do Ive got a few parts and willing to send to you as i Said (Caps, some Pots, Some Jack, 9v Clips) CABLE might look funky with Earth Live and Neautral (i can never spell that and im a Sparkie too) ---- Just waiting for 2M2 Tuesday I plan to chuck a PCB board in water for two days and see how it turns out, I still plan to do a preamp, just want a coatin on the tracks like PCB boards have No protection else were, see if I have to eat humble pie mmm

[quote name='Hilti1972' timestamp='1368561588' post='2078666'] Thanks Angel, haha. I should state, all internals ahve gone onto becoming an art piece by my Niece's partner . The could not be saved. The pick-ups are still fixed and the bridge (see picture in original post). I [i]think[/i] the wood is ok. [/quote] Fair enough, Im going to try and make a PreAmp from the Stingray Bass, I dont mind (one off) sending you the parts (Not including the POTS tho) I got some LM4250 (but im not 100% sure if they are real you got to watch out with china) Have a hunt around for Preamp that might suit you .. im going to be trying out some of the circuits myself, so do have a fair bit of parts