sirmuppet

Ok, I've never been one for pedals on my bass setup. I prefer to plug right into an amp and that's it. That said my current band requires that I have different sounds and over time I've come to realise that I need to change things a little. Current setup is. Bass (P-bass, J-bass, Thunderbird, Stingray) - Smoothound Wireless - Korg Pitchblack Custom - Sansamp Bass Driver Deluxe - Orange Bass Terror's effects return (Thus bypassing the preamp of the Orange) - Orange OBC115. I also run the direct out of the sansamp to a rocktron banshee. I personally don't like the sound of my Orange Terror head. This isn't an issue as I really just use it as a power amp now and it does that just fine. In a pinch I'd use it as a head but not long term. So on to the pedal board. Am toying with the idea of removing the wireless. I like the freedom and not having to worry about pulling leads out which I used to do a lot. It's not 100% required. Korg pitchblack custom is perfect, I have no need to remove or change this. The Sansamp Bass Driver deluxe. I use one tone on it as my main and another for a drive. Since I'm looking at getting dedicated drive pedals this makes it 1 channel out of 6 that I use. It's big and good but I'd like to change it up. I've seen the V2 version with the mid control which looks cool and I also like the idea of the Darkglass vintage deluxe or Ultra (to get a slightly gainy tone). I'd be running direct into the PA as well as direct into the return on my Orange so how do Darkglass stack up as DI and preamp pedals as most of the videos I've seen they are running them into amps? Then comes a dedicated drive and maybe a fuzz pedal. I've posted about this before and recently again. The two that caught my eye that were suggested were Darkglass Duality and the Soruce Audio Aftershock. The Duality would be a great fuzz but it won't do the drive sound which flicks me back to the Aftershock. The thing that puts me off that is the fact it runs from an amp and I kinda want it to be future proof and not rely on tech that might be hard to get in 10 years time just to be able to edit it. The drive tone is sort of a song 2, ace of spades type drive, so a classic drive. And finally the talk box. Don't ask but I do use it on the bass, lol. The one I have is great but I need to find a 9v one if possible that runs on the same supply as the above pedals (I know the Smoothound doesn't but that may go or I can get a +/- switch cable, in fact I have one direct from Smoothound). One of the above pedals needs to have a second out for going to the talkbox. I notice a slight drop in volume when engaging it. Doesn't matter what pedal or if it's a stereo or even a dry out, just as long as one pedal has a second out. Ok, so I hope I managed to explain my issues and my needs somewhat. From the above what would you guys suggest?

Thanks. I had an M80 but can't remember ever trying the distortion side for some reason.

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1478472203' post='3169329'] Ask someone else, I've tried neither! [/quote] Lol, no worries. Cheers for putting me onto it though, wouldn't really have looked at MXR otherwise.

That sounds nice. I think I'd probably have to add in a Fuzz too but that's no problem. How would you rate the MXR distortion to the distortion side of the MXR M80?

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1478464009' post='3169238'] The Aftershock is way more versatile, but it is a pain to program. If you put the time into it though you could end up with a bunch of presets for different tracks - Motorhead sounds pretty different to Muse for example! You can get some decent fuzz sounds from blending for example a Muff and Darkglass model in parallel. If it's definitely a heavy fuzz you seek the Duality could work but forget trying to coax overdrive sounds from it - it desperately needs a gain control! [/quote] I think you've pretty much hit the nail on the head with what my issues looking at these pedals are. I was worried that if I dialled back the fuzz on the duality that I'd get a sort of farty sound. While the aftershock looks great, the options on it look mind boggling on the app, and in 10 years time will I still be able to get the app to program it? I mean I'm relying on an outside piece of tech to program it. Any other pedals you could suggest? The only reason I was thinking of the two about were when I asked the question about drive pedals a while ago people suggested a few and these were the two that stuck out as being the best. The only other fuzz pedal I have seen that I really liked was the ZVEX Wooly Mammoth but that's expensive!

I would think so as it has a DI and a line out. So as long as either the desk/PA and monitor had the opposite input to each other (as in one took a DI and the other a jack) then you'd be ok. The only issue with a monitor taking that is it would need to be powered and have an onboard volume otherwise you'd have to control the volume via the BDI21. The BDI21 runs similar to my Tech 21 Bass Driver and I've looked into this too.

Hi all. Pretty much as the title suggests. Looking to get a dedicated drive pedal rather than using a channel on my Sansamp. Have narrowed it down to the Darkglass Duality or the Source Audio Aftershock. Has anyone used both? Opinions? I've watched videos and read threads but I'd like some input as to opinions between the two. I play mostly in a covers band and the songs I'd use this on are by bands like Muse, Blur, Motorhead, The Black Keys etc... The Darkglass for me sounds amazing but perhaps only one sound. The Source Audio is great too and will have a better range of tones but I can't hear anything as good on the fuzz side as the Darkglass. I'm also a little against having to rely on software to program it. So with all that, what do you say?

I have a few basses and they all feel very different so hard to tell. The action is certainly higher on a couple but I also use different string makes and material on different basses along with different gauges. I guess I like it that way as each bass has it's own character more so than if they were all setup the same. As my moods change so does the bass I play as my main one.

So an update to a point. I'm taking the bass in to get repaired/checked fully. The seller has said to do this and bill him, he says he'll give me the money back that it costs, but I'll get a cost before going ahead and will check with him. He also insists on providing a new case for the cracked one. So fair play to him, he's been great to deal with. I'll let you all know what the problem turns out to be.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1478105470' post='3166802'] I wonder if the phono jack is faulty/dirty or needs the tangs bending back which is stopping the preamp cutting in fully? Looks all standard so that is a good start. [/quote] Am just about to email the seller back. He's been really good about getting back etc... He was 100% right that it is the stock preamp but it certainly doesn't work as it should and my tech confirmed that. I may ask him if it's ok to have it put in and checked/priced for repair, will mention what you said about the jack. He offered to replace the case which is cracked free of charge but I'd rather have the bass repaired than the case replaced. Will keep you all posted as to what happens. Thanks for all the advice so far

[quote name='ikay' timestamp='1478097279' post='3166726'] Hmm, no obvious signs of having been molested. Circuit diagram and wiring schematic below in case that's of any use. [/quote] Thanks man. I had a look online and it looks like the newer 2009 board according to the site I found, looked identical. The tech I had the bass into said it wasn't behaving properly and agreed that the pots seemed to be fully on or off, no gradual increase etc... He could say more without test it properly but I was on t lunch and pressed for time.

Ok here you go. Can get better when I get home but this is what I have for the moment. [URL=http://s444.photobucket.com/user/ferengo/media/Instruments/Z_Stuff/Sub-Misc_1/IMG_0377_zps7zxjczd2.jpg.html][IMG]http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq170/ferengo/Instruments/Z_Stuff/Sub-Misc_1/IMG_0377_zps7zxjczd2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s444.photobucket.com/user/ferengo/media/Instruments/Z_Stuff/Sub-Misc_1/IMG_0378_zpshhg7ho2l.jpg.html][IMG]http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq170/ferengo/Instruments/Z_Stuff/Sub-Misc_1/IMG_0378_zpshhg7ho2l.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[quote name='hiram.k.hackenbacker' timestamp='1478092096' post='3166660'] As our learned Music Man experts have mentioned, the only one I'm aware of that fits your description is the white Gilded PDN Stingray which has gold hardware and a push/pull nearest the jack. I think you would almost certainly get some detailed answers to your questions by putting some decent photos of the bass and its guts in this thread. [/quote] Yup exactly what I was thinking when I had it in the shop only an hour ago. I took a couple of pics on my phone. Just going to get them on my machine and upload. Just a moment....

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1478084984' post='3166579'] I don't think it would have active/passive in stock form, and I've never heard of active/passive switching achieved by turning a pot that wasn't a push/pull or rotary switch. Either way, it would only pass signal without a battery if it was passive, or if it was active with intelligent switching to fallback to passive in the event of a battery failure. Sounds like this guy butchered your electronics without knowing what he was doing! [/quote] Thanks man. Pretty much what I thought but thought I'd double check with the people who know. I've never seen it either like that nor heard of it being on one of these models. I'll take the battery out and try putting it in the position he says is passive. If it is passive then it should work without the battery, right?

Just checked and there's no push/pull knobs on it. This might be a daft question but I'll ask anyway. Would a Musicman 2eq work without a battery? This guy is saying the knob makes it active passive. So if this is correct and the musicman doesn't work without a battery then if I take it out it should work in passive mode but not in active, correct? Hope that makes sense, I'm just rattling it off from my thoughts, lol.

[quote name='drTStingray' timestamp='1478048768' post='3166417'] The 2 band Musicman EQ doesn't have centre detents and is cut and boost - however the neutral position is not at the centre of the rotation of the controls. Dependent on the amp you're using, the bass boost may sound more powerful than the treble - however you should hear a more progressive change rather than an all of nothing. It may be worth checking/changing the battery if you've recently bought the bass. The only version of the 2 band pre amp with active/passive function appeared on the gilded white PDN Stingray and also on some Guitar Centre basses (standard 2 band Stingrays) produced around the same time. One of the controls on those basses has a push/pull function to change from active to passive, becoming a passive tone control. [/quote] The bass is in the car to take down to the guitar shop to get checked out. I'll run down in a moment and check if any of the pot are push/pull. The shop will have batteries so I'll get them to check for me. I'm not normally one for active basses so didn't think of that one, lol. [quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1478081915' post='3166547'] It should be very noticeable from full to minimum on both bass and treble pots with a nice gradual adjustment. [/quote] Thanks for confirming. It's almost an instant change with no gradual adjustment/change.

Hi all. Just got myself a 2009 Ernie Ball Musicman 4 string Stingray. It has the 2 band EQ. I'd only ever played the 3 band EQ previously and was surprised to find the the 2 band EQ is a treble and bass boost and doesn't have the cut function. Any way my question is this, The basses preamp doesn't function like I believe it should (Boosting the treble and bass). The treble control does nothing until it's on about full, the bass one seems to go full on just after you start to turn it. I spoke to the seller who said it was original and that the bass one is actually an active passive mode even though it's a knob without any indent and the other knob is just a boost. Have EBMM ever come with this stock? I can't find anything to say this is so but it's what I'm being told by the seller. Thanks for any help.