olliedf89

Oh and thanks for your input!

Okay, cool, I'm in town shortly I might pick up a set of thicker Ernie Balls or something if that sounds sensible!? Yes I recently read about and started to adjust the break angle of new strings from the nut to the tuning post in order to create a more definite break angle, that helped. However, when it comes to identifying problems with the Nut, I'm not sure what I'm looking for... there's no major gaps or any movement. Certainly nothing unusual compared to any other bass I've got! The bridge is for sure where my concerns lie as I replaced the bridge on a previous Fender with success. I'm always unsettled by the lack of grooves for the saddle to sit in, this means it tends to shift about a bit, I'm sure that's not really a problem but it does make me question it's ability to stay stable and therefore keep tension. Generally speaking though... good break angle, everything is tight and well adjusted. Maybe my technique and I just don't get on with fender stock bridges!

Okay, cool, I'll switch up brands next time. I think they're seated fine as far as I can tell, no movement, fairly neat and tidy, doesn't look any different from any other bass I've got, no damage or anything unusual. I've been in search of a bass playing friend for that reason! Unfortunately just haven't had the time to cross paths lately, I'll see if I can arrange something for an upcoming gig. I've only found guitar players to ask lately. They seem confused at the size and lack of extra strings and tend to just blackout. Alright I made that last bit up. Thanks for your advice!

Hi All, Last year I bought a brand new MIM Precision from GAK but I'm having an issue with the E string tension... Basically, the E string does not carry the same tension as the other three strings, and as a result sounds much more dead than the others and seems to dull much quicker. This means that when you play the E string it doesn't react or 'bounce back' the same way as the others do. This is noticeable with all techniques but mostly recognisable with fingers and especially with the open E. For example if I'm playing a simple riff that involves open notes and fretted notes, it will often feel like I'm playing out of time because the string doesn't react in the same way as the others. Playing in a covers band this is really noticeable when I drop to D or have to pedal an open E note, and when I play through my 410 I notice just how dead and lacklustre the E sounds. It's like someone's secretly muting the E string for me. Just doesn't cut through the same. Raising the action does alleviate the problem slightly but by the time it becomes comfortable, it has thrown the feel of the whole bass off and I feel that having to adjust a brand new £600 bass to a stupid set up just to alleviate a problem shouldn't have to happen. Also, tuning the E up to F or F# greatly alleviates the problem and increases the tension, but I'm not entirely sure what to do with that information! I had this same problem with a Squier 60s CV bass a few years back, and ended up selling the bass after I got nowhere with the issue. I also had a similar problem with a MIM PJ passive Deluxe which I bought off here second hand, though I fixed that issue with a new bridge eventually (something I will try next). When I previously took a bass with this problem to a tech, the responses have been a mixture of "no problem here" to "it's your technique not the bass" and I even had a local tech phone me up to tell me it was because I bought a Squier (from the shop HE worked with) and then took the time to explain the differences between Squier and Fender. The things I have investigated: New strings (I've owned it 6 months and replaced the strings frequently- always D'addario XL170s (45-100s) I have heard that people regularly do just get dead strings but this has happened so consistently now that I feel I can eliminate that as an issue) A proper set up (as of now I had the bass set up professionally a week ago with new strings by a chap I trust and have used before, though I'm not saying he's perfect) The pickups are owned from new Fender 62RIs (which I also had in the 60sCV which had the same problem, but as I had the problem before the pickups I think I should eliminate them as a problem, though I'm happy to change them if needs be). My technique- I do dig in hard, I was bought up on RHCP lines so think a bit of Flea, but never had any issues on any other basses regardless of strings, set up or any other components. (I own several other basses- G&L L2000 Tribute, Lakland Skyline 44-01, 3x Ibanez ATKs, Fender PJ and have played other people's basses too) I've played plugged and unplugged and the problem is definitely apparent without amplification but definitely exacerbated with a large amp. It is made better when I use my compressor, though. Next things for me to try are: New bridge (Northwest Guitars are out of stock currently) unless anyone can recommend anything else?) They're sub £20 on there and I have had success with them previously. New string guages... thicker? thinner? different brand? should I have to adjust my string preference just because a bass doesn't get along with them? Apologies for the essay! I'm all ears for any responses! Thank you!

Thanks for your help all, I've found a couple on eBay I'm looking at, looks to be about right!

[quote name='BassBunny' timestamp='1492684948' post='3282259'] That's pretty much it. [/quote] Happy days. Thank you kindly, I shall do some more investigating and get myself some nice shiny new pots.

[quote name='BassBunny' timestamp='1492682996' post='3282240'] There shouldn't be any problem with getting the right pots. The crucial part is the "thread" length as the pots are used to secure the pre-amp into the bass by the look of it. [/quote] This is what I was hoping for... So theoretically, as long as the threads are the right length and the pots are the correct value, I shouldn't have a problem? So, for example, the volume pot thread measures 15mm from the body of the bass to the top (when in situ, haven't had time to take it out) making it about 17mm in total I would guess. And saying A20K on the bottom, I would assume then that as long as the thread is 17mm and the pot is of 20k value and is an Audio Taper Pot, I should be on target?

[quote name='BassBunny' timestamp='1492621848' post='3281739'] The Pots you highlight are Dual pots, so totally unsuitable. The only way to find a replacement, unfortunately, is take the pre-amp board out, remove a pot and measure it. All the pots seem the same size, just different values. RS Components stock Bourns pots, which are good and they do an awesome range of sizes. They look reasonably standard PCB mounted ones but things like shaft diameter/length etc will be critical to getting the right fit. This is probably why the guitar tech didn't want to do the job. [color=#26282A]"B" indicates it is a linear taper pot. "A" indicates it is an audio taper pot[/color] [/quote] Ah I see, thank you! Great explanation. That's all fine by me, I'll crack on and have a better look at them. Thank you.

Can't seem to find decent email details for Ibanez, just their UK distributors... any more info on that? If anyone happens to know what I'd be looking for here, or even if they could recommend some alternatives for me, that'd be great too! Thanks!

[quote name='Thunderbird' timestamp='1492351830' post='3279588'] What the tech means was he did not wanna do it as it is a sh*t job with the pots on the board Ibanez sell the pots though [/quote] Fair i guess! Thanks, I'll give ibanez a shout then, see if anything comes back from them.

Hi all, I've got a lovely Ibanez ATK500 (The Koa top one) and it needs a bit of work on the electronics side of things. Had it a while, and its been like it since I got it on here a year or two back. Used it last night and it sounds great except for the excess noises. The treble pot just sounds like a hurricane when you move it, the bass and mid are also quite scratchy. The volume pot is a bit temperamental, it works, but for some reason it seems to do full volume at about 75% of the way up, then drops again at fully open. It's also very noisy generally, and you get random 'clicks' and 'pops' without doing much too. Its signal also started to break up randomly last night, which is odd. Either way, I think it basically needs all of the pots replaced. The triple selector switch is fine, that was replaced a while ago. I dropped this bass to a local tech a year ago and got the response that it wasn't possible for him to find replacement parts. I've had a look around the recommended parts sites mentioned on the pinned post here and if I'm honest I don't really know which pots are suitable and which aren't. I'd really like them as close as possible and with the centre detents on the EQ pots too. The one thing I want to preserve (if this is even something to worry about in this situation) is that the output volume seems to be fairly low for an active, as in.. it works very well with fuzz and octave pedals (ie the 3leaf Octabvre/ Boss OC2) which my other actives don't do so well, and I'd quite like to keep it that way if possible. I've found this on eBay, would this be suitable for the tone pots? [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dual-Gang-Centre-Click-Potentiometer-16mm-Stereo-Pot-With-Center-Detent-Linear-/121155542903?var=&hash=item1c356edf77:m:mPnu-fwWhuVhXYY9_K8fUbg"]http://www.ebay.co.u...huVhXYY9_K8fUbg[/url] Anyway... any advice on what to look for greatly received, thank you, I'm happy to do the work, just not entirely sure what would be a good or equivalent replacement! I believe the volume pot is A20K, the EQ pots are a bit weathered but I think they are B20K The order of the pots from left to right is Bass, Mid, Treble. Volume top centre, and triple selector switch top right.

[quote name='Romeo2' timestamp='1487538253' post='3240652'] One 'funny' thing I noticed is that fat fuzz factory before the delay creates sounds that just ignore the delay and I can barely hear/notice the delayed signal, especially when there is lots of drive and/or gate [/quote] Yes, this is exactly it! It's like the delay is ignoring the signal. It can be cool, I can have something on the delay feedback and play over it distorted without interference but yeah that's exactly what I mean. Odd. Wicked pedal though.

So I was mucking around being all ostentatious at home making noise with my board and I stuck my ibanez es2 analog delay at the end of my chain, aiming to make some pretty noises and upset the neighbours' children when I realised that the ibanez doesn't seem to like being fed a dirt-ridden signal. I have swapped and changed pedals etc and the delayed signal always drops in volume when I hit any form of dirt pedal before it. I've used fuzz (TAFM), drive (B3K) and bit crusher (scrutator) amongst others, and each time I combined them, the delay output drops drastically. I've tried other delays and basses, and I'm using voodoo labs across the board so I can't see why it would do that? Is this we'll know with certain analog delays or just the es2? It's no biggie I spose, just curious to know! Edit: Oh it's probably curious to note that I have the scrutator with the expression pedal set to change the filter. When it's full treble and the bit crushing is evident, the delay is quiet, but as you change the envelope to more bass and the bit becomes less noticeable, the delay loudens accordingly. Curious.

The afterneath is fantastically fun, and it is basically itself a reverb, just not like you're used to. It can be used like one if you want, albeit weirder and less traditional, Personally, i wouldn't get another reverb after using this. Using it at home is always fun, but live it works best in ambient soundscapey stuff with a lot of room, I think. For general gigging like covers I use it more to generate background noise, like a keyboard might during a breakdown or quiet section, so essentially as a fancy reverb. The pinging sounds are amazing at home but in the throes of a live gig, they don't stand out tons unless your tone is geared for it, or you're in the higher register a lot, but it can often just sound like a normal (sometimes too muddy) reverb if it's a busy band. Depending on what you're playing of course, if there's room for it to shine, then it will. That said, I use it all the time with my covers band, and have loads of fun with it live, even if other people don't realise what's going on. Personally I use it behind the bass solo on Club Foot. I use my eqd sea machine chorus to get floaty Isis-esque lines and a malekko scrutator to change the envelope of the sound too and get a nice wall of noise going, that's pretty fun. Just not for the local pub gig!!