nugget

[quote name='wwcringe' timestamp='1352352289' post='1862029'] This 5str looks badass, is it gonna stay fretless and when are you dropping it off with me!??? Tom [/quote] Yup it's staying fretless but I've got to finish 2 others before getting back onto finishing this one for myself!!! You've got enough basses to last a lifetime, you dont need anymore - but I'll bring it down early next year Dave

Hi Started another one, 4 String PJ with wizard pickups, std P shape Maple & Rosewood through neck with rosewood binding and blocks Ash body and maple top Through neck jointed, radius cut, fretslots cut and binding fitted. [IMG]http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd380/firecreekCustom/DSC06666.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd380/firecreekCustom/DSC07106.jpg[/IMG] Blocks to be fitted next

[quote name='rubis' timestamp='1352227797' post='1860481'] Very impressive, I made a useful router sled-device thicknesser-thingy using some good quality drawer runners left over from our kitchen refit. They're screwed parallel onto a thick board, there's no slack or wobble on them and the router just fits on a sled and glides over the work piece. It works so well I've worn it out! [/quote] cool - I recently made a sled type router thicknesser and prefer it to my PT now! super accurate with a BIG end milling bit and handles any size of wood, much cheaper (again free) than buying a big PT.

I personally love making jigs and stealing the ideas from TDPRI, it's a great site for hobby builders on a budget Here's my take on a budget (Free) version of the stu mac's fret slot jig Very quick to use and cuts slots dead parallel and vertical. [IMG]http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd380/firecreekCustom/DSC04131.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd380/firecreekCustom/DSC04132.jpg[/IMG]

[quote name='mike 110' timestamp='1351252541' post='1849259'] Plasti - Kote ! That's it ! Looked at the site and it's going to be a Blue of some kind Mediteranean maybe ... How many cans will I need ? 1 primer , 1 colour & 1 clear ? What about sanding ? First ever project so I'll be bugging you lot for a wee while ! Thanks so far by the way ! [/quote] I think you'll need a lot more than that.... unless you're sh*t hot with a spray can Try spraying the primer let it dry for a week or 2 then rub it dead flat without rubbing through to the wood, that'll give you an idea of how many cans each stage will take. There is more rubbing with the colour and top coat as these need to be perfect (or close to) and the top coat will have the most rubbing to get the mirror gloss finish. you MIGHT get away with 2 cans of colour and top coat i you're primer is perfect and you're carefull with the sanding but be prepared to use more than that. It's a great fun thing to do and the results can be very impressive so persevere and show us the progress Dave

I used it once and the results were VERY good. It's a bit harder to spray than cellulose but with care it fine, it still takes loads of time rubbing down etc. Just take care to get wet coats (not sprayed too thin). Use a sanding sealer before spraying as you'll use less cans and less ££££ shellac sealer worked fine for me with polyurethane over the top.

Hi Mark Thanks for that, i'll try pluggin bass into those places next time I get it to play up and I've got my swr on standby to try the preamp out. How do you clean the jacks? is it just sprayed with contact cleaner of do I need to actually clean em out?? Ta Dave

Hi guys Need some help here, I recently got a second hand eden wt405 and adore the tone but recently its started playing up. When its first turned on it occasionally only make a very very quiet distorted sound when dials are all at gig settings. The clip light still blinks if I slap the strings and the tuner out still drives the tuner. It eventually clears after 5-10 mins after fiddling with it. Its not the cab as I've tried it with a spare and pretty sure its not the bass as the tuner and clip light still work. I guess its a problem with the power amp section? Its very intermittent and that's gonna make it tricky to replicate. Any ideas?? Ta Dave

gonna be nice - you build basses faster than fender!!!!!!

[quote name='Si600' timestamp='1348128471' post='1809560'] How are you cutting the fret slots? The only time I've done it the frets were sort of in the right place, but not quite. [/quote] I made a simple jig to cut the frets 100% square and vertical. It's basically just a sledge than runs on a straight edge (could be anything) and ends up with a perectly square front edge and a piece of flat mdf attached to the saw. Works amazingly well and only took a couple of hours to knock up. Mount the neck parallel to the straight edge. Can be used for a radius jig also without removing the neck so there is only one setup time It looks a bit rough but works a treat .[attachment=118867:DSC04131.JPG] [attachment=118868:DSC04132.JPG]

[quote name='Jabba_the_gut' timestamp='1348079950' post='1809057'] Cheers Nugget. How's your latest build going? [/quote] It's been put away for a while, I've got a couple of other little projects to finish then I've got 2 builds to start for others so mine has to take a back seat.... I've just realised you're only just up the road from me, let me know if you ever need anything

If you're useing nickel-silver fretwire then you wanna over do the radius on the fret before fitting quite a lot so it's too curvey. Tap the ends of the fret into the slot first then work from middle outwards. This puts some sideways pressure on the tangs and frets hold better. With stainless frets you want the radius to be as per fretboard before tapping in. I really cant see any reason to use superglue (or anything like that) to hold frets, it's just not necessary and it's only gonna make a mess and really screw things up years down the line when you need to take the frets out for a refret. If you get one fret that doesnt seat properly just whip it out, and stick a new over-bent one in rather than bodging it with glue. Wenge does splinter really easy and you have to be very carefull when cutting across the grain

[quote name='Jazzneck' timestamp='1347889462' post='1806171'] Can anyone help, please? I have got my mits on a 2nd hand lovely fretted, rosewood faced Allparts maple neck which (to me) has a problem. Someone nitro lacquered (clear finish) completely over the frets and fingerboard without filling the grain in the rosewood first *!?*!?* OK, I can remove the lacquer with gentle use of the appropriate solvent but can any of you heroes/heroines tell me how I go about filling the grain and bringing the board to a smooth overall baby bum smoothness like wot I've got on all my old basses, please? [/quote] I'd get the laquer off the frets first, it really screws with the zingy tone from the frets. Rosewood has veryopen pores (which I think leads to the tone of it) and filling them can be tricky without leaving it sticky/glassy. I've done some with a hard setting wax which if done corrrectly with very very thin coats fills the pores without feeling to sh*t and waxy, wipe of all the excess wax when applying just to fill the pores and not get any build up on the top. Older basses with smooth rosewood boards is probably down to build up of crap in the pores. I'd also not use any chemicals to get of the laquer as that might effect anything you put on top. As suggested scrapping or very fine sandpaper will get it clean without adding any chemicals.

Phil bought my GK amp, quickest easiest deal I've ever done. Instanst payment and overall great guy THANKS

I fancy trying these [url="http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Guitar_frets.htm"]http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Guitar_frets.htm[/url] simple to install and cheap as chips

[quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1346696718' post='1792069'] Don't let my wee job get in the way of you finishing this beauty, I'd rather see this first [/quote] I MUST start yours - cause I'm falling in love with it and must stop having a sneeky quick play on it .

Thanks for the cool comments! Did a little more this weekend inbetween fitting a new fretboard to a P bass Routed pickup cavity and tried for size -the bridge is only held on with one screw hence why it doesnt look parallel. [IMG]http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd380/firecreekCustom/DSC04684.jpg[/IMG] The edges were routed with a 9mm radius but I wanted to see the black accent laminate and the ash to show a little when looking from the front so I got a 19mm rad bit which has done the job. The insides of the horns aren't done yet as the router wont fit down there so I'll do them by hand [IMG]http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd380/firecreekCustom/DSC04682.jpg[/IMG] Got some other little projects to do now so this will probably be on hold for a while unless I can squeeze a bit of time here and there, shame as there isnt too much more to do to this

Headstock is cool - love the super long fretboard

Ohh I love bank holidays Here's the insert thingie fitted (before being cleaned up!!) And with the cover put back in place... Top on

Hi I'm staying in driffield tues night (which i think is between hull and brid so probably not too far away??) Any change I can pick it up?? will make donation for the karma

Did a bit more yesterday Wanted to make the control cavity cover cut out of the body wood so that it matches perfectly. Routed the cavity leaving 5mm and then routed round the edge down to 3mm. I wanted to leave the middle a bit thicker for strength [IMG]http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd380/firecreekCustom/DSC03835.jpg[/IMG] Then using a fretsaw cut round a couple of mm inside that routed cavity to leave a little lip for an insert to sit on [IMG]http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd380/firecreekCustom/DSC03871.jpg[/IMG] Then made a little inset to fit in the cavity with a battery holder and a lip for the cover to sit flush [IMG]http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd380/firecreekCustom/DSC03869.jpg[/IMG] The insert is a bit rough right now but will clean it up when its glued in. It's glued in now and the bubinga top is glued up and clamped up right now. Will try and get a few more pix tomorrow. Ta Dave

I really like that shape! this is gonna look nice.