DiMarco

So... Anything (war)wicked going on lately?

[attachment=150758:lolphinblur.jpg]

The bridge cover is what caused seventies pickup positioning so be thankful.

Sure, if you like synthie stuff and flat sounding chorus etc. the digital toys are the way to go. I still have to hear the first big muff/Ampeg classic/Accoustic 360/Procon RAT/etc/etc modelling that sounds anything like the real thing though. They simply all sound completely crap.

I strongly get the feeling though a lot of these "happy zoom owners" have never heard a full scale bass rig in their lives that's all. Plug a zoom ms60-b in between your seventies P bass and such a rig and you will know what I mean. It totally destroys any tone you had. So yeah I wouldn't believe anything I read from the reviews you can read on forums. Youtube can be a nice source but sadly most of these newbies don't bother recording a decent audio signal when making their video reviews and will make any gear sound like crap.

My advice: Go to a good guitar shop, bring your own bass with you and try out these pedals for yourself. Online info is nice but only on specific questions that can be answered with facts rather then opinions.

I do realize that by saying these things you also don't have to believe a single word I said.

[quote name='Guinness21' timestamp='1387604558' post='2313763']
where does the b7k sit, with the amount of adjustabilty available?
[/quote]

The B7K is essentially a B3K with 4 band EQ, parallel output and a very hot D.I. output.
It is marketed as a bass preamp as you can plug into any rig and have your sound with it. It is more of an "always on" pedal like the Tech21 VTbass is (but without the Ampeg style colouration of your tone).

Since I am using a Trace Elliot amp with 12band EQ I reckoned I won't need an extra EQ on my pedalboard and went for the two other pedals (B3K and vintage microtubes) instead. The idea behind this move is made pretty much clear in this video someone else made:

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-TKjoFQZqo[/media]

Hold that thought.

And ODB-3 is a way way waaaaaaay different effect then the Bass Big Muff and are used both in their own way.

I have gone through a lot of dirtboxes over the last couple of years including big muff, bass big muff, mxr m80 d.i.+, mxr el grande bass fuzz, Tech21 VTbass v2 and some others. Right now I have a couple of Darkglass pedals (B3K and vintage tube) incoming which will arrive somewhere next week...

The "dirt" on a bass can be divided into four different types:[list=1]
[*]Classic Tube like overdrive = Tech21 VTbass or Darkglass VMT
[*]Modern tight and aggressive distortion = MXR M80 or Darkglass B3K
[*]Classic sustainy, warm and sweet fuzz = MXR El Grande Bass fuzz or a standard Big Muff
[*]Grindy but tight modern fuzz = Bass Big Muff
[/list]
Don't make a mistake by thinking a big muff will replace your ODB-3, they are entirely different pedals.

Also a tip: You can take just about ANY overdrive or distortion pedal and sound okay when mixing it 50/50 dry/wet by using it in your effect loop rather then in between your bass and the input of your amplifier.

I don't really care what the signing artist plays. My Nate Mendel sig P bass is a nice P with somewhat slimmer neck, badass II bridge and quarterpounder pickup. Nice nice nice! It has the mods that I want so I prefer it over any other P that is about the same price.

Same goes for my Marcus Miller sig japanese active jazz with ash body, maple fb and seventies pickup positioning. Great bass that gets lost in the mix just as well as any jazz!

The 15kHz stated might be marketing blah. 8k should be high enough indeed as 10 is "treble" on a hi-fi amp. (I'm trying to rely on simple logic).

Thomann sell those Celestions for 23 euros a piece. I will go with that almost for certain now.

Thanks again Stevie your help is much appreciated!

Thank you Stevie, I think I'm going to have to go for those celestions considering the costs involved replacing all four those speakers unless I can find another bright box that has at least one working speaker left in there.

I have just found the original specs of the bright box state it runs from 4khz up to 15khz. That 4khz probably means the passive filter in there sits somewhere between 4khz and 5khz which should make it safe to use 30watts speakers summing up to 120 watts for the whole cab.

You guessed it. One of the four 5" speakers in my brightbox has turned to pulp.
I am looking to replace all four of them wit Monacor msh-115 midrange units that go up to 10khz.

A cheaper option is using Celestion TF0510 units which go up to 8khz which should also be enough. These are only 30w each though instead of the 50w rated Monacors but are 2 to 3db louder at 1 watt then those Monacors.

What do you guys think?
Does anyone know at what frequency the Trace Elliot high pass filter in the brightbox operates?

Thanks in advance, Marco

[quote name='lefrash' timestamp='1384843761' post='2281295']
This could very well be the first negative review of the ms60b i've read!
[/quote]

That is mainly because many bassists don't know any better and really shouldn't be writing reviews.
Zoom multifx pedals are toys hence the low prices on them.

Booze.

They will actually. If they think its good enough. Warwick are cool like that.

That looks a lot more chunky, less sleek so to speak. No pun intended.
I wanted an elegant looking design so I chose to keep it curvy.

Final two versions, with sweet Wengé & Zebrano and a slightly fatter body model. This is where I will stop. This is my dreambass.

Haha. Well It is the reader's own responsibility to judge the content whilst reading forums. There's a couple of rules of thumb though:

When you ask "what is good for ..." most forumites will tell you what they have themselves. Not a lot of people (apart from those working in a guitarshop or writing reviews for magazines) have enough insight to be able to answer these kinds of questions. Keep that in mind.

When asking (complaining) about technical issues with your gear, keep in mind that here also, half the people answering might not be knowledgable and are purely guessing or passing through info they read elsewhere. See a luthier / tech instead.

This goes for almost any forum.

Idea: have a technical questions section on bc where answers can be rated. The people answering these questions build up a score so the ones asking questions can roughly guess who they are dealing with.

It is not intended to be an improvement, just a different model, kinda like with the Thumb nt and sc models.

I'd like to try one if it were real and probably gas for one.

Might look nice, but it is not a Dolphin anymore that way.

Here she is with the original image that served for the mockup job.
Body is slimmer as it was looking horrible (in a humpback whale fashion) otherwise.

What do you think?

Look for a (used) EBMM Sterling (not "sterling ray" or "sterling by musicman" but the real thing) with hb/sc/sc switch.
Neck is thinner then that of a ray and it sounds really good with lots of punch.

Edit: like such!

USA P basses are cheap.

... After it had been tortured the night before (for its own good ofc.)

When we want to change a song's feel we usually first play the structure of it to a different rhythm, in a different tempo. This will make you automatically come up with another bass groove or even a whole different bass line in the same key. Jam till its phat and whoop there it is.

Sarge (of Quake II fame) demanding wax the wick.

"Bass is gonna be run through our D.I. and floormonitors only"
"We don't need to do a soundcheck on the bassguitar"
"Here's your three coupons for drinks on this festival"
"Sorry I read nothing about food in your contract, must have missed something?"
"Stage mix will be done by one of our trainees"
"sh*t he brought his girlfriend"