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DiMarco

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Posts posted by DiMarco


  1. Bit of extra contrast and more vibrance. Image taken just now in fading daylight.

    The action on this bass is great, with the E and G string saddles nearly all the way down. Plays like a dream. Honest!

    Soon as I got it here today (around noon) I had to tighten the truss rod thus take off the neck. I cleaned the neck cavity and neck end since there was quite some wood dust in there and I figured this would impact the sustain of the instrument quite a bit?
  2. Bass might not get out of your system. It sounds really really nice. I was looking for a somewhat oldskool P tone but not willing to spend thousands on getting it. As you can see I now have a pretty broad palette of bass tones available. None of my other basses seems capable of grasping that P presence though so I just had to...

  3. Today I replaced the old burnt out unit with the Visaton one.

    As you can see in the photos the old L-Pad has suffered total meltdown with its previous owner. A problem he chose to solve by removing the lightbulb and replacing it with a regular fuse. The lightbulb however is part of the filter and I will have to replace the fuse with an original lightbulb.

    Now then, the Visaton L-Pad is a fair bit larger then the original one that was built in by SWR. It has some sort of ceramic material and the rest of the housing is metal. I hope this will dispensate the heat better then the original unit, which is mostly made of plastics.

    I haven't heard the final result of this operation yet as I still need to get myself a lamp and get rid of that fuse. What I do know is that the Visaton fits properly and that the original cover and knob can be simply pulled from the original L-pad and fit properly on the Visaton one. Good stuff!

  4. Compression goes either at the front or the end of the chain depending on preference.
    Basically for a good starting point the order of things is Tuner -> Octaver/Harmonizer -> Distortion/OD/Fuzz -> Filtering -> Modulation -> Delay/Reverb.

    Filtering are effects such as an (auto) wah, Modulation effects are chorus, phaser, flanger etc.

    Cheers, Marco

  5. Hi,

    I own a Goliath Jr. III cabinet. The HF unit in it is working but really really softly, near inaudible.
    The HF level control on this cabinet feels funny and wants to be in the center position, hardly turns. Is it fried? I think so...

    So I find myself searching for a replacement L-Pad right at the moment and am wondering if this would be a good one:

    http://www.visaton.com/en/chassis_zubehoer/zubehoer/lc95.html



    It is a Visaton 8ohms L-Pad rated at 100 watts.
    Any thoughts or recommendations? I'm located in the Netherlands.

    Cheers, Marco.

  6. Sore fingers? set up your bass proberly so you don't have to play so hard imho.
    Lowest possible action and a nearly 100% straight neck here - never any pain! Dig in for added fret noise.
    Your playing will be more controlled and grooves will be stronger, slapping will be easier as well.

    This is a win/win situation really.

  7. Correction: designed and built under Gibson as one of the last ever "made in England" products before Gibson moved production of just a few products to the U.S. In january 2002 and closed the U.K. factory (making the full staff redundant while at it).

    Production date of this amp is august 2001... A piece of Trace Elliot history.

  8. The amp has a hand written serial on the rear side.


    Since the poweramp section board says 1999 and the amp was built in 2001 it must have been designed under Kaman flag and built while owned by Gibson I think.
    I also own a late eighties AH250/GP11 but this AH300 has some really nice features the older amp lacks.

    Next tuesday I'll drag it down to the rehearsal room where it will compete with my Fender TB-600 hybrid amp.

    Point is with the Fender I use a tech21 vtbass to add warmth (the fender tube OD isn't my cup of tea and sounds quite muddy) and a Markbass compressore. I'm hoping I won't need those stompboxes anymore when using this TE amp...

  9. Bought from a pawn shop, it was carrying a sign "effect unit". :D

    Something was rattling inside so first thing I did was open her up and fix the loose pcb which was attached to some odd little piece of wood...



    Built in 2001, print on the rear side says "made in England" which is good right?
    One of the two jack speaker outputs was dirty and the dualband comp balance pot was crackling. Cleaned all of that and the amp is working 100% now. Too bad the lit front panel is a bit damaged here and there thus not fully lit anymore.



    Reason for this post: I have a couple of questions.

    1. The tube "overdrive" is no overdrive but just adds a little warmth. Is this normal?
    2. I'm not used to dualband compression. Can anyone with experience recommend me some settings?
    3. Is this a good catch for 127 pounds (149 euros)?

    The amp sounds REALLY good by the way. I'm impressed!

    Cheers, Marco

  10. LOL do some research before asking obsolete questions so bluntly. Everything you ask can be found through google easily. And stating the chinese models are toys makes you sound like a total schmuck.

    Sell the stingray then go hunting for the best possible choice you can lay hands on. That is what I would o.

    Samples of all Warwick models can be found on youtube so it is easy to get an idea of what the LX can do. While at it also check for the other streamer models stage 1 and 2. Stage 1 comes as a broadneck standard and the stage 2 does not but is one of Warwick's flagship models.

    The LX sounds aggressive, Stage 1 is a lot smoother yet modern sounding and Stage 2 is king of the midrange frequencies. I'd go for a Stage 2 myself.

  11. I got a bass off ebay which had been stored in a damp area for years. Fungus growing on the fretboard, metal parts all corroded. Replaced all hardware including the rusty trussrod, bridge, tuners, knobs etc. I was lucky the electronics still worked.

    Who on earth would let a 5000 euro instrument rot away like that? Some people...

  12. As this is a limited edition Thumb, it is a bolt on design but I am afraid there will be no stock replacement necks available for it.



    Also, by 2003 Warwick were not using any replaceable truss rods anymore. If the truss does not work any longer you're most probably looking at the entire fretboard having to be removed to reach and replace the trussrod (if they can't pull it out the other side). If Warwick can replace the neck it will not be cheap, the other option is having it fixed by a skilled luthier. I'm afraid this is some seriously bad luck you ran into. Otherwise I have lots of good experience with Warwick as a brand.

  13. Been there done that. Replacing these rods is easy as 1-2-3. Finding silicone grease that is sturdy enough is the hardest part really.

    1. Pull old rod out with pliers. If the rod seems stuck help it along by gently pulling the neck back some. Should slide right out.



    2. Lube up the rod you're gonna use with Silicone grease, also needs grease in between the two metal parts not just on the outside! (mine was b0rked so I replaced it with a new one). Shove it back in gently,



    All the tools needed, a bog roll and pliers being the most important.

  14. Lots of musicians are headstrong and can be total w***ers while at it, not just guitarists.
    You're following the track since that is the one constant factor you can go by. Things will settle when you play with these guys a while longer and you will find more appreciation once things start to flow. I'd give it time and ignore the clumsy remarks made by the guitard player for now.

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