funkydoug

To the OP: Have a look at Tecamp Bonafide and other true two channel bass amps. Eden and SWR did them, plus others no doubt. There’s a Bonafide for sale at bassdirect I think.

Also, the orange bass butler preamp is designed around a similar idea.

IQ is surely a function of scale length anyway…😅

Just now, Chrisan2 said:

I guess the 810 covers it, but two 410s is my preference  

I totally agree, was just joking

seems like a no brainer to me to offer a few 8 ohm options

What do you mean… 2 x 410 not modular enough?? 😂

Seriously though, I think you’re right and can’t work out why they’ve done it that way… especially when they’ve made lots of 8ohm and 16ohm cabs previously. 

No but I wish they did a 210 or 112 cab! Very tempted but I'd prefer a modular cab situation 

Yeah i did expect it to go quick !

Shame I can't say the same about the ABM combo I'm selling too!

sold pending payment. 

Sorry @dodge_bass ... was looking for cash only.  

In the always-churning kaleidoscope of pedals and amps it is time to shift this beaut.

Totally immaculate condition.

Lots of chat about these in talkbass and details on the broughton website but it is basically a very flexible Eq preamp and headphone amp. Can be used as a cab sim too.

 £250 including UK postage.

Could you try removing the TC box and using b3n to turn volume down?  It has a good noise gate and compressors galore… but I appreciate you might have reason to want the TC to handle dynamics.
Either that or then the TC down using the level knob.

At risk of sounding patronising, both the B3n and the TC Nova dynamics have volume/ level controls. You can make them silent. Is there a reason you can’t just turn them down??

Also, that’s a big mixer for a 3 piece, I’d be arguing for a channel on the board that has a fader!!

Good luck.

37 minutes ago, agedhorse said:

Respectfully, to counter the common argument that the polar pattern (response versus frequency versus axial angle) of a speaker depends only on the diameter of the driver and the spacing to adjacent drivers, this is only partially true.

 

It is possible (and commonly done in the real world) to alter the polar patter of a driver at higher frequencies by changing the cone depth, shape and the size/material and location of the dust cap. All of these elements contribute to the non-theoretical aspects of a driver's radiation pattern, and is why 10 different 15" drivers will have 10 different polar patterns.

 

As an extreme example, the JBL D-130 utilizes a shallow, light weight curvilinear cone, and an aluminum dust cap that is directly bonded to the top edge of the bobbin. This dust cap acts to radiate the higher frequencies differently that the cone itself.

 

As another extreme example of what could also be called a secondary radiator, the "wizzer cone" concept is a dust cap with a radiation element that is bonded directly to the top of the bobbin and can extend both the frequency response and polar pattern by an octave or more.

 

Polar patterns are something that designers consider when developing transducers for practical applications.

Great post, thanks.

In such a case as this, where the dust cap is used intentionally to increase frequency response and dispersion does it still make sense to use a single vertical stack? Or can two columns of speakers (as in a trad 410 or 810) be used?

I would think the dust caps perform better if they are vertically aligned but cabs like the PJB ones don’t use the single column approach, and I seem to recall that they do make the point that those aluminium dustcaps are intended to work as you’ve described.
I’m not questioning Phil Jones’ design at all, I just don’t understand it  … yet!! 

While vertically stacked drivers is great advice the other solution is a three way cab with each driver crossed over before it starts to beam (as mentioned above also).

It is a good one cab solution. The Fearless cabs and the markbass 123 cab are examples of this approach. Each driver should produce very widely dispersed sound in each frequency band. There’s a Dr Bass 1260 like this on eBay right now (not mine btw).

4 hours ago, Julio Checchi said:

Hi everyone, i really hope this thread is still active. I tried this today on my B1on and mid installation my pedal just shut off. I got a timeout error and the download stopped. I went to plug in the pedal and all it says is "System error". No matter what i do it wont work. any help?

Are you working from firmware 2 or 2.1 ? 
I found it didn’t work (in a similar way to your experience) when I had 2.1. It needs 2.0, in my experience.

That’s a ludicrously good price for a quality cab … reflects the sorry state of the market in the aftermath of covid

Hope  you find a buyer soon bud.

Anyone looking to make a matching 2x12 rig could combine this with one of the 112 cabs currently for sale in the forum … would make a great value set up that could conquer pretty much any gig! Just sayin’ 

withdrawn

Happy to organise delivery within the UK.

Just bought a combo from Jamie. Great communication throughout and it was really well packaged for safe journey with a courier. Thanks

pm sent

I'll add some totally unqualified pub-talk here. Don't base any design decisions on this!

My limited experience with cab building leads me to suspect that a cab of this size, with this driver and port will struggle with 200w, in the modelling realm. You'll go over the red Xmax line and the port velocity will be higher than you'd want it to be. That's the bad news, in my unqualified opinion.

Two thoughts about why you don't need to worry about it too much though:

1) In real life 200w is more than you'd be likely to feed a small cab  (not saying you won't have a 200w+ amp, but it won't be playing 200w constantly) and the good design and components used here mean that it will sound loud and very good none the less, as a compact cab. If you really want a bigger sound there are loads of bigger and two-cab options there, but I'm sure this will be a great design for its intended purpose.

2) Secondly, the modelling realm is not the real world, so although the excursion crosses the red line in the software in the 75hz ish zone, in real life once it does so the relationship between power-in and excursion changes so that it sort of self-limits excursion for several reasons. This means you don't have to worry about it as much as that graph suggests. Also, although you are beyond xmax, you are probably no where near Xlim (the limit) so there isn't much to trouble you there. The extreme excursion you see down at about 30hz is subsonic, and if it were me I'd use a thumpinator or some kind of HPF / EQ to cut that crud out of the signal.

Anyway - I'm sure someone will be along shortly to give you a proper answer, these are just based on my own experience and 'learning' from  lockdown builds.

Thanks guys

Can anyone recommend someone to work on a bass in NE England? My trusty guy Alan Brason in Tyneside has retired sadly (probably great for him!).

I need  a new loaded control plate fitted but also a proper neck/fret/action/intonation job.

Cheers, Doug

Price dropped to £350

Sold on the bay